This is geat work, but I really don't see the need for this, as to how it works and what it does. Once I reach boost, my timing is automatically pulled to around 16-17 degrees. This is because of the map sensor. If anything, staying in closed loop at lower boost will be BETTER than open loop, because the ECU is still controlling the A/F ratio, which makes the car run a bit leaner, but still makes good power. I can tell the difference when part throttle boosting in closed loop, and open loop boost at the same pressure. Car has a bit more power in closed loop..I personally wouldn't want to run open loop once I see boost. My car has a lot more drivability and power in low boost this way..Don't know, maybe my car is just different Running really large injectors, you would want to keep in closed loop at part throttle, lower boost, to help your A/F ratio out a bit..Just my opinion- it would be better to use this device to force the ECU into open loop not at 0 psi, but like 6-8 psi, as I would worry a bit about going to high into boost still in closed loop, and running to lean. I think I have hit 10 psi or so with the ECU still in closed loop, and have gotten light amounts of detonation from running to lean. This is a very rare occuracne though, and only happened in 3rd gear at lower rpm. Better yet, make it adjustable when it forces open loop with a potentiometer, and just use a motorola map sensor for the input. That would be sweet.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)