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Update on the new engine. Miller Import parts supplied a very nice 1999 Spyder 7 bolt 4G64 SOHC block (2.4l). Steve was very helpful in finding me the right year block with the latest split thrust bearings. I had Jackson Auto Machine true the deck parallel to the crank, bore the cylinders perpendicular to that, and align-hone the main bearing journals for studs. It took forever, but the workmanship looked very good.
This time, I was prepared with outside micrometers, snap gauges, bore gauge, and dial indicator to measure all clearances. I recorded everything in a book, in case I need to reference it. I was a little rusty on installing pistons and crushed a ring in a band ring compressor (retarded). After waiting for new rings to come it, the rest slid right together. I used a stock crank with Manley forged pistons and long rods (to bring my rod/stroke ratio back down). ARP studs hold the crank girdle in place. I had to tap freeze plugs into some of the oil return holes in the block since I am fitting the wrong head to it.
Again, Miller supplied a nice 7 bolt 4G63 DOHC head (2.0l). Jackson decked the head, installed new guides, and did a basic valve job. Comp Cams stage 3 camshafts were used with 3G style HLA's. All new exhaust manifold studs were installed (I've had two old ones break).
A Cometic head gasket and ARP head studs hold it all together. Compression is supposed to be around 9.0:1 after the machining. I used Fidanza 2.0l cam gears and adjusted them for the longer timing belt needed on the 2.4l block. This time, I used a timing wheel and dial indicator to degree the cams. Colossal pain in the ass.
I built adjustable solid lifters to degree the cams. They cannot be adjusted while installed, so you have to loosen the cam bolts and slip them out to adjust for zero clearance. I probably did that 30 times for each cam to get it just right. I also made a piston stop out of a spark plug. Ugly, but it works.
Once the new engine was together, it was time to rip out the old one. Again, pain in the ass. The AWD trans is really tight in there. I had to drop the engine and trans together, separate them, and pull the engine out the top. I did notice that the crank pulley had a small chunk missing around the outside. I assume that the pulley hit the unibody when the car was nailed in the fender (before I bought it). That might have also bent the pulley and might explain the vibration I felt at 2000 RPM. A new crank pulley was installed.
Empty engine bay. Now is a good time for cleaning and painting. After this picture was taken, I painted the firewall and any remaining black parts of the bay. Lower unibody and subframe were hit with engine enamel and then undercoating.
Why am I not showing you a picture of the installed engine? Well, I installed it. Even more of a pain in the ass than removing the old one. Actually, a pain in the back too. It took forever to align the input shaft on the trans with the clutch disk and dowels on the engine. Then all of the accessories take twice as long to install as to remove them. There are so many hoses on this engine. I pulled the injector connectors and turned the engine over until I got oil pressure. Reconnected the injectors and the engine fired right up. Cool. I am watching RPM, A/F, coolant temp, etc. After 30 seconds or so, I walk around to the engine bay and see oil dumping out of the head right under my thermostat housing. It dumped about 2 quarts on the floor (luckily I had filled it slightly above the upper fill line). The machine shop had removed pipe plugs in the head to clean oil galleys. They reinstalled all but one. I didn't even notice. It just goes to show that you must check everything yourself.
I borrowed a plug form the old engine and used The Right Stuff to quickly slam the thermostat housing back on (didn't want to wait a day for RTV to cure). Refill oil and coolant, engine fired back up. No other leaks. I set off to find a country road to break in the engine. I worked it hard for 40 miles with alternating load and engine braking. The extra displacement spools up the turbo faster. It didn't catch on fire, so that's a plus. It actually held together fine. Fuel trims were fine, coolant temp was fine, no noises. It does lope some at idle and vacuum is around 15 inches Hg. No stalling or CEL, so I guess I'll let it lope. I changed the oil when I got home (dark with moly assembly lube, but no sparkles). I'll put some miles on it driving to work and see what happens.
Corbin '97 GSX dressed like a '95 ESi
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