#877, "RE: Idle AFR" In response to In response to 3 May-22-05 10:25 AM by XtremeRS
Originally posted by ner947 I disconnected my IAC too, it helps a lot with the stability with idle AFR's. The engine will idle around 700 when cold, and around 1400 when warm, but at least it doesn't surge anymore and the AFR stays right around 13.5:1. The engine will now also start up and stay running the on the first attempt, which I was never able to do with the IAC still hooked to the stock ECU. My timing is about 8-12 degrees at the 1400 RPM idle.
Well i'm having cold start issues too..Never really had that problem with 022i6 code though. I can see the PW in MT go up when cranking, motor fires for half a second, then PW goes to 0.0, then motor quits. It's like the MS isnt keeping the injectors on after the cranking PW time ends..I had to crank it like 10 times to get it to start. Did this with fuel only, and fuel+spark. I've left my IAC plugged in, gave it 15 degrees of timing at idle, and it seems to be doing ok..it's a little touchy at first, but after a 5 minutes or so, the IAC seems to stable out. It was worse when i had the timing at idle around 5-7 degrees. The IAC had NO difference in the A/F ratios at idle either. The IAC is NOT the issue for the idle A/F problems.. One more thing to note, is when the IAC is unplugged, after running some higher boost, the pressure pushed in on the IAC pintle, and I had a bit higher idle after that run..It's going to need to be removed and plug the passage hole.
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
