Yeah, Clutch Dynamics in Lansing, MI, used a stock Modular clutch for my clutch. He drilled out the rivits, resurfaced pressure plate, resurfaced flywheel, and used a 6 puck ceramic disk, all then bolted toghether. It work GREAT for the 1800 miles i got on it now, even grabbed hard at the 7 track runs i had on it. Just happened all at once while racing that damn Mustang. I didnt see any oil on the clutch itself, but i could see a bit of oily, greasy crud on the shaft that the TOB rides on, so i'm thinking a small bit of tranny fluid made its way onto the disk facings. The clutch builder had put the pressure plate on a load tester, and said it came out with a bit more load than a stock pressure plate should really have, like 5% or so more. So I guess i'll just have to tear it apart to see what the deal is. I did find a black greesy film on the bottom of the bellhousing, but there isnt any drips of oil or anything, no visible oil or film on the pressure plate/flywheel. The TOB still rides smoothely,and is still attached to the release fork. I talked for a bit with the clutch builder,and he says usually when the release point goes up, it means the disk facings have really worn down. But as far as getting a higher pressure plate, i can prop get one that is about 15% greater than stock, from Clutchmasters,but the builder says even that is that much more load, but may be just enough to help. We will just have to see after i get it apart and see whats up. The clutch still grabs, and didnt even slip this past weekend..its just does it on occasion, and now the pedal release is at the top.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)