Originally posted by InFiNiT3
Removing the trans is pretty simple though more difficult than removing a RWD trans. (one of the reasons I love my bimmer) Sadly I do not have my old write up anymore and the guy hosting it on the web shut down his acct. BUT i can kind of walk you through it by using some simple steps. (ill try to keep 'em in order LOL)

EST Removal time- 5-10hrs
Difficulty 4.5/5
Tools needed (not recommended , NEEDED)
-full metric socket set
-full deep metric socket set
-12"+ ratchet extension w/ wobble
-large flat head screw driver (recommend 20" pry bar)
-about 10ft of rope or tie wire
-Trans jack (60$ from harbor freight)
-16mm long handle open end wrench
-17mm long handle open end wrench
-18mm long handle boxed angled wrench
-Tallest jack stands you can find
-Jack
-bottle jack
-any alcohol of your choice (trust me)

1. Disconnect and remove battery and tray
2. lift front of car as high as possible (safely)Drain Fluid
3.remove cross member under car parallel to exhaust down pipe
4. (optional) remover exhaust down pipe (more room)
5.remove both front wheels
6.remove tie rod ends
7. tie axle hub up in current position towards engine bay
8. remove lower control arm assembly.
9. pull and rotate hub to remove axle from trans. the axle uses a "C" pin so using the pry bar between the axle and trans "gently" pry while pulling on axle assembly. (a friend helping is useful)Be sure to leave the axle bolted to the hub.
- With both axles removed we can now work on the trans.-
10. remove air intake assembly. to the TB
11. remove windshield wiper fluid reservoir.
12. remove rear motor mount @ firewall (3 bolts)
-Back under the car-
13.remove flywheel inspection plate
14.remove starter
15. with flat head, hold fly wheel in place
16. remove flywheel bolts x4
17. place tranny jack under trans and lift/secure
18. place bottle jack under engine, lift to current position.
19. Remove shift linkage @ trans
20. Remove Trans. mount bolt under battery tray to chassis
21. Remove Trans-Engine bolts x4
22. Lower engine and trans together so that the trans mount clears the chassis.
23. remove trans mount
24. remove Harness from trans
25. lower trans jack completely
26. pull/slide trans away from the engine (careful it will fall)

See, just 26 steps. LOL! Don’t hurt yourself... Lord knows i have quite a few times.

Don’t forget to clean / paint the trans b4 re-installing makes it purdy because unlike our lovely RWD cars when you lift the hood on the 2gnt the trans is quite visible. I did mine a gloss black the last time... b4 that it was red... b4 that it was silver.. but hey whatever color scheme u got going on works


The TC I bought was the ERT 3500 stall (b4 it was discontinued) and was too much for an N/A car. So think ahead b4 buying of what your plans are in the future.


Since you are doing all this work , you might as well do it rite and install a trans-go shift kit along with the stratus final drive gears and a caravan solenoid pack. This will add quite a punch to your WHP and quiet your trans up a bit along with ensuring a long life.

Also when u switch the TC make sure your drain all your current fluid and replace it with ATF +4. This is a full synthetic and will lower your trans temps by up to 20* which is a very good thing. #1 rule ; for every 20* over 200* cuts your trans life by approx 50%.