welp, got all belts cept the timing belt off. trying to crank it over to TDC, the belt is stopping at something. if i put my breaker bar over the ratchet, i can get it if i put all my weight and try my hardest. it will turn for a few clicks of the ratchet then stop again. i talked to jeff over aim, he suggested take out spark plugs and try, same deal. car is in neutral and everything on the outside of the engine looks in place. i can tell that my auto tensioner is out of spec per the service manual, it is too far extended but is still working and the belt is staying tight. jeff suggested maybe the valves are bent or bending or at least that is what i am hitting, my only thought about that is why did i have such good compression if that is the case. i havent started the engine since the compression test. i am gonna run the test again tomorrow afternoon to see what my compression is. if it is still good, what the heck could it be? any ideas on things to try? im at a loss. thanks.
#9271, "RE: car wont crank by hand. *help*" In response to Reply # 3 Dec-05-04 10:55 AM by Diceman19
Originally posted by Jeff_99gs Just take the timing belt off, line up all the timing marks, and put the belt back on again with a new tensioner. That might work.
really? what if i get the cams opposite of where they need to be or something. should i pull the timing belt off, then move the cams some and then move the bottem end. the bottom end has the two center pistons up right now and maybe they are stopping against the valves.
what do i need to do to convert this to a non interferrence engine...
EDIT: this is what someone on tuners said to do.
"Use a big-ass screw driver to pop the rockers off of the valves, then the cam will no longer force the valves down as you rotate the motor. When the mark on your crank says you are at T.D.C. on #1, do the marks on the cam gears line up?"
is that a good idea? how hard would it be to get the rockers back on and how much work would i have to do to get them on? i dont really feel comfortable doing that by myself since i dont know dick about heads....
#9274, "RE: car wont crank by hand. *help*" In response to Reply # 6
Mark the belt with white or silver permanent pen. Release the auto tensioner and remove the belt. Set the timing marks up where they are supposed to be, and put the belt back on with a new tensioner. The whole point of the timing marks is so you can remove the belt and put new ones on without having to worry about where everything used to be. As long as they all line up you are fine. Make sure the lines you made on the belt line up perfectly with the correct marks on each of the pulleys and gears, etc.
Once you get it together again, see if you can rotate the assembly.
That is the best you can do without removing the head for now. Sorry.
#9275, "RE: car wont crank by hand. *help*" In response to Reply # 7 Dec-06-04 03:54 AM by Diceman19
i dont see how marking the belt helps. please explain more. if i pull the belt off, who cares if i get it back where it was... what if i mark the belt, then because of the fact that the pulleys are round, none of the marks line back up on the belt to the pulleys. me just dont understand. i just have a feeling that if i take the belt off, i wont get the engine back where it needs to be and will end up breaking something. probly already have, but at this point, i just dont want to touch it because i feel like i am gonna be spending money in the near future.(money i dont have BTW.)
if i were to do this, let me know if this would be the process. i would back off the bottom end some, move the cams to TDC or close to it, then move the bottem end? sound good? can i leave the balance shaft belt on? do i need to replace the tensioner? it is only 1 year old and has less than a few thousand miles on it. it was only in use from like november of 2003 to march or so of 2004.
this is so sacreligious to me. ever since i bought this car, it has alwasy been timing belt this and dont touch anything unless it is in TDC and such. now you tell me to pull it off and start cranking. guess i have moved on to advanced 4g63 201 now.
#9276, "RE: car wont crank by hand. *help*" In response to Reply # 8
Once the belt is removed you could spin one cam gear 500 times by itself and the oil pump sprocket a billion times. As long as the timing mark are lined up afterward, everything is okay. That is the entire point of the timing marks. They keep everything in check.
Marking the belt lets you know exactly which tooth was where on the gears. Trust me it makes sense when you start putting ti back together again.
The reason I said get a new tensioner is because you said it was out of spec.
Maybe one of your pulleys froze up or something. I really don't know what to tell you. I have never ever heard of anything like this before. I can only imagine something inside the engine in FUBAR.
#9277, "RE: car wont crank by hand. *help*" In response to Reply # 9
Originally posted by Jeff_99gs Once the belt is removed you could spin one cam gear 500 times by itself and the oil pump sprocket a billion times. As long as the timing mark are lined up afterward, everything is okay. That is the entire point of the timing marks. They keep everything in check. Marking the belt lets you know exactly which tooth was where on the gears. Trust me it makes sense when you start putting ti back together again. The reason I said get a new tensioner is because you said it was out of spec. Maybe one of your pulleys froze up or something. I really don't know what to tell you. I have never ever heard of anything like this before. I can only imagine something inside the engine in FUBAR.
the tensioner is out of spec because i didnt put it on "right" i just pushed the pulley as high i could get it then released the tensioner, i didnt have any rods pushin on the bracket to hold it down.
so when i start marking things, i should make tons of marks and that way at least a few of them are going to line up?
does my process sound about right for getting R done?
