#2066, "Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP"
I'm checking out new radiators...surprisingly, mine is working a little better now, but I still broke my stock bastard so I'm looking for a new one.
I need help, nobody will give me a solid answer on a difference.
www.radiatorbarn.com has OEM replacement radiators, all metal, no plastic ends for $136 shipped. They say it is a heavy duty version of the stock radiator. (on a side note, they have a race radiator, but only for the 2.4L motor . . . odd)
Fluidyne, I can find for $375 pickup (local) or $350 shipped from RRE without talking to anybody for negotiations on price.
Someone, please tell me, what is the advantage of the Fluidyne? It has a higher capacity for antifreeze, but they are both aluminum radiators, and the radiator barn one is not as deep, as I understand and will fit bigger fans behind it.
I read only the thin spal fans will fit behind the fluidyne radiator, which have far less air flow than the fatter spal fans.
#2068, "RE: Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP" In response to Reply # 1
Originally posted by Jeff_99gs Jesus Christ just get the goddamn Fluidyne.
You know, it's not like I'm working with an unlimited budget here, I'm barely able to pay for the stock radiator replacement right now, let alone another $200 for a "better" radiator, that nobody can tell me why it is better.
#2069, "RE: Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP" In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by FlyinEsi
Originally posted by Jeff_99gs Jesus Christ just get the goddamn Fluidyne.
You know, it's not like I'm working with an unlimited budget here, I'm barely able to pay for the stock radiator replacement right now, let alone another $200 for a "better" radiator, that nobody can tell me why it is better.
buahahahahhaha.....like i said...it doesn't always solve the overheating problem...on the other hand it looks nice. I would not spend the money on a Fluidyne until i exhausted all other cooling possibilites. It would really suck for you to spend that money only to still overheat. From my understanding, the core on the fluidyne is bigger then stock allowing more fluid to be held and cooled at the same time.
_____________________________________________ Jerrome B. 1995 GSX - Race 1997 GST - Drive 1995 GST - Who the hell knows
#2070, "RE: Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP" In response to Reply # 3 May-31-05 08:22 AM by Jeff_99gs
From my personal experience, and that of oh... 30 of my closest car enthusiast friends, the Fluidyne with the help of aftermarket fans and water wetter has cured all of the common overheating problems associated with modified cars. (i.e. FMICs).
However none of them ever bought metal performance radiator hoses.
I don't know what other proof you need. Good luck.
Edit:
The Fluidyine is SIGNIFICANTLY thicker than the stock radiator, which not only allows more fluid to be in the system at the same time, but also gives more surface area to each row to help cool the fluid. The more surface area, the easier the coolant gets access to fresh air and cools the system. The same principle applies to intercoolers. The thicker the intercooler is, the more efficient for the same reason.
#2071, "RE: Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP" In response to Reply # 4
Reality is that you can have the largest radiator in the world, but if it isn't getting the air it needs, it will still overheat. There has never been a single instance where it is proven that switching radiators has solved overheating issues. In alot of causes, it just delays the overheating.
So before spending that money on a radiator, I would make sure the stock radiator is getting enough air, which with large FMICs, it usually isn't. Unless of course you have 350 to drop on a radiator like that. Before spending the money on that, I would make sure that all other possibilites have been exhausted. That is just my 2 cents....
_____________________________________________ Jerrome B. 1995 GSX - Race 1997 GST - Drive 1995 GST - Who the hell knows
#2072, "RE: Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP" In response to Reply # 5
Originally posted by BigBald Before spending the money on that, I would make sure that all other possibilites have been exhausted. That is just my 2 cents....
Jerrome, I see what you are saying too, but IMO hacking my front bumper is really my last possibility. Looks is what is most important on my car, as long as it is running correctly. But I've never had this problem before, and I've had the FMIC from day 1. Something else is wrong here. And this is not my first time in 100*+ weather running 20psi either.
I put the stock lower hose back on, because I think the greddy hose is leaking due to me breaking my lower hose nipple, and I'm pretty sure there is oil in my antifreeze.
On top of that, I hooked up DSMlink last night on the freeway, after turning the boost down to 15psi, and I run approx 16:1 A/F in overdrive at 80 mph. So I'm running lean too, but don't know how to richen up the LTFT? Any help?
Also, I can't find where to kick the fan on sooner, can you take a screen shot? Version 2 doesn't seem to have that option anymore??
Jeff, I really think I need to do a headgasket fix, can I get the APR head studs from Buscher too??
Much thanks guys, I'll owe you both a 6 pack when this is all fixed.
#2074, "RE: Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by Jeff_99gsHowever none of them ever bought metal performance radiator hoses.
Damn, who said they are performance radiator hoses...they just look nice, and they appear to have a stock hose inside, just has the mesh around the outside of it. Drop it, please, it was for looks.
#2075, "RE: Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP" In response to Reply # 8
Does it get hotter when you get into boost or is it always hot? I would absolutely change your headgasket before doing the radiator. Buschur has ARPs, but they are usually cheaper through Summit.
And Jerrome, that is bullshit. My car was overheating quite badly before I put in the Fluidyne. I changed nothing at all but adding the Fluidyne and now the car barely stays warm enough even under boost and highway driving to keep the damn thermostat open. The temp gauge used to sit just to the right of the middle before the radiator, and now it never even gets to the middle of the gauge. Saying that there is absolutely no proof at all that a fluidyne helps overheating issues is just a plain lie. I have personal experience with that one.
#2076, "RE: Fluidyne vs Radiator Barn need to order one ASAP" In response to Reply # 9 May-31-05 10:24 AM by BigBald
Originally posted by Jeff_99gs Does it get hotter when you get into boost or is it always hot? I would absolutely change your headgasket before doing the radiator. Buschur has ARPs, but they are usually cheaper through Summit. And Jerrome, that is bullshit. My car was overheating quite badly before I put in the Fluidyne. I changed nothing at all but adding the Fluidyne and now the car barely stays warm enough even under boost and highway driving to keep the damn thermostat open. The temp gauge used to sit just to the right of the middle before the radiator, and now it never even gets to the middle of the gauge. Saying that there is absolutely no proof at all that a fluidyne helps overheating issues is just a plain lie. I have personal experience with that one.
Helps and fixing are two different things. Why is helped you solved your issue can be because of a number of reasons. But you cannot say it will fix a overheating issue. There are those who have that radiator and many other aluminum radiators and still over heat.
There are to many variables. In order to prove this theory, a test will need to be conducted where ALL conditions are kept the same and stock radiator must be in perfect working order in order to exclude any other variables in that conclusion. No such test has ever been conducted to my knowledge so there is now you can make a statement that a fluidyne will "fix" overheating issues. But yes, it will help with stopping the car from overheating in most cases.
Edit: For Flyin, Try using a 80% Water and 20% Antifreeze mix and add a second slim fan. In DSMLink, you will need to add a positive value to the coolant offset variable box in order to turn the fans on early. If you do a search on the DSMLink forum, it will give you a definitive desciption.
_____________________________________________ Jerrome B. 1995 GSX - Race 1997 GST - Drive 1995 GST - Who the hell knows
