i am switching to mobil 1 full synth in the very near future in hopes to eliminate my lubrication when cold situation. it has been cold enough here to cause my oil to be extremely thick and not able to lube the engine when cold. i have been told by numerous people that synth wont change its lubrication properties based on the temp. true or false.

anything i need to know while i am doing the switch?

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no it won't change how it lubricates, but it will have a higher viscosity, and it will help with lifter tick. When its cold out try 5W30 and switch it to 10W30 when i gets warmer.

Also note that syntheics rock, but once you go there you can never go back...

Vandy

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Black 98 GST missing her owner and looking for a new one...Inquiries welcome

If you start noticing small oil leaks, don't think something went wrong all of a sudden. Synthetic is made up of identically sized particles, all of which are small, as opposed to regular oil which has large particles that will often block pinhole oil leaks. The synthetic will no longer be small enough to stop at these pinholes, so you might notice some oil under the car. Nothing went wrong, but you will now have been alerted to any small leaks that you have had for some time. Just be prepped for it is all, and now you'll know where the engine leaks.

It's running again shitheads.

http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=791

HybriDSM@gmail.com ; HybriDSM@hotmail.com

Think for yourself. Question authority does not always mean disagree with authority.

If life were perfect, I'd be Calvin and you'd be Hobbes.

boo to engine leaks! i was told by a few people that synth would help with cold starts. basicaly, my oil is getting extremely thick and not flowing properly and thus my crank and pistons are grinding enough to smell and hear. that is bad news. i poured some oil in the valve cover to help alleviate it, but that cant be a perm fix. 5w30 will fix me up eh?

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you should be switching to 5w30 when it gets cold anyway... conventional or synthetic. It flows easier when its cold than 10w30

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I used to have a 420A...


'92 TSi AWD

11.8 @ 119mph
470awhp 405 ft/lb torque
30psi on E85 w/ Borg Warner S256 Turbo

My DSM Registry: http://www.dsmregistry.com/166

ok, i can do that. i will probly be switching over this weekend, but there isnt anything else i need to to make sure everything goes to plan, just change oil as normal, but use synthetic 5w30.

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RESTORE in the silver can helps lifter tick. If you're changing your oil soon, dump it in now and drive it for a few days before you change it.
I put some in my 1G when I first got it and have done 2 oil changes since. Still no ticking.

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-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX

YES there is something you need to know. You should use a "flush oil". I.E. Drain your oil and put in some cheap regular 0W30 and let your car idle for like 15 minutes, then put around in it for like another 30 minutes or so... keep your old oil filter on. THEN Come back, drain that oil, and put in synthetic. This way all the shit that breaks loose from the thinner oil won't be floating around inside your engine.

1990 Eclipse GS-T

more opinions. anyone else think that is necessary? i didnt understand your second step, put around in it? did you mean putt around in it or drive around?

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-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX

oh yea, forgot to share some pics of my egt install. i hate you guys.....
btw, i plan to tap the hole when i install my turbo back. no leaks for now.

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