I have these wires left: inj 1, inj 2, o2, tachometer output, fan control (switched ground to relay), +8v voltage output, fuel pump, f-idle, tps sig, tps vref and 12v power from source that has power while cranking.
I bought an injector harness that has a resistor pack wired into it so im not sure where to connect the inj 1 wire and the inj 2 wire to. What wires do i connect them to? Which o2 wire do i splice into? Where do i connect the tachometer output wire to? Where do i connect the fan control wire to? Where do i connect the +8v voltage output to? What wire do i tap for the fuel pump? What is f-idle and where does it connect to? Which stock tps wires do i tap for my tps vref and tps signal wires? Where is a 12v power source while crnaking on my 1995 eclipse and where do i wire it to?? How does my wideband connect to my ms unit? Keep in mind this is a standalone unit. Please help me out if you can i have searched for hours on here and on msextra.com
#3907, "RE: Please Help with the rest of the wiring" In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow i have searched for hours on here and on msextra.com
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Life will be much easier if you buy a factory manual with electrical supplement. Once you know what the wires on the car do, you need to figure out what the wires on the MegaSquirt do. Then the wiring mysteries all become clear.
First, you have a wiring harness with a resistor pack. Do you need a resistor pack? What impedence are your injectors? Does your MS have a flyback circuit built? As far as inj1 and inj2 wires, they control the ground path to the injectors. Since you have four injectors and two injector driver wires, two injectors will share each driver. You may choose to join the #1 and #3 injectors to inj1 and the #2 and #4 injectors to inj2. #1 injector is closest to the timing belt and the others follow in sequence from there. A stock injector harness would probably have the #1 injector wire as light green with black stripe, #2 injector wire as yellow with red sripe, #3 injector wire as yellow with green stripe, and #4 injector wire as light green with red stripe. The 12V supply for the injectors is shared between all four injectors. A stock harness would probably have this wire as heavy gage black with red stripe. You might choose to hook that to a 10A fuse that feeds from a relay. That relay could also power the MS through a separate 10A fuse. That relay could be triggered by the ignition switch ON position using the heavy gage black wire with white stripe.
The O2 wire on the MS should probably be connected to the output from your wideband controller. You may wish to power the wideband controller from a relay triggered by ignition switch ON.
I would suspect that the tach output wire would go to the solid white wire that triggers the stock tach.
If you have one fan control wire, that could trigger the stock HI condenser and radiator fan relays. That is a green wire with orange stripe near the relay box. Or you can use your own relay and send 12V to the white wire with black stripe (radiator fan) and the light blue wire with white stripe (condenser fan).
The 8V output could be sent to the crank sensor power (solid yellow wire) and speed sensor power (solid yellow wire). You still need to ground these two sensors (black with green stripe wire). The crank sensor output (light blue with white stripe) can go to the MS for RPM input. The speed sensor output (yellow with white stripe) still needs to go the speedometer.
The fuel pump wire could trigger the stock fuel pump relay (white with red stripe).
Fidle is fast idle. If you had a fast idle solenoid to kick up the idle speed when the engine is cold or AC was on, you would trigger it with the Fidle wire. You could probably get away with just kicking up the idle permanently by turning the throttle stop screw a little to open the throttle (you can use pliers).
TPS Vref goes to the green wire with yellow stripe on the throttle position sensor. The TPS signal wire goes to the brown wire with red stripe on the throttle position sensor. You still need a ground for the sensor (black with green stripe).
That should be a start.
Corbin
'95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks
Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire
#3911, "RE: Please Help with the rest of the wiring" In response to Reply # 1 Jul-25-08 06:55 PM by 95eclipseSlow
No I do not need a resistor pack.I have high impedance injectors.As far as a flyback circuit I'm not sure. I know I have MS1 with v3.0 board.What ms wire do I connect the crank sensor output to?What wire do I connect the speed sensor output wire to and where is it located?Where is the heavy gage black wire with a white stripe located? Is that wire the ignition switch wire? What if I did the fuel pump rewire mod, where do I connect the ms fuel pump wire to then? Where might I find that solid white wire for the stock tach?
#3914, "RE: Please Help with the rest of the wiring" In response to Reply # 2
If you have high impedence injectors, you can ditch the resistor pack and don't have to worry about the flyback circuit. Your MS should have a tach/RPM input wire that connects to the crank sensor output. The speed sensor output wire needs to go to the stock speedometer. You will certainly find the stock speedometer trigger wire (yellow/white stripe) up near the speedometer. If you left your stock harnesses in place, you will also find this wire near the stock ECU location. The ignition switch ON wire (heavy black/white stripe) is up near the ingition switch. If you kept your stock harnesses, you will also find it near the stock ECU location. The MS fuel pump wire controls the ground path to the coil of your chosen fuel pump relay. It doesn't care if you connect it to the stock fuel pump relay or run it back to an aftermarket relay for the "fuel pump rewire mod". If your MS has a tach output to drive a stock/aftermarket tachometer, then you can connect the MS tach output wire to the solid white wire up near the stock tachometer. If you kept your stock harnesses, this wire could also be found near the stock ECU location. A universal standalone ECU installation is pretty deep stuff. You really need to have a factory electrical manual handy. It will have diagrams of every wire, circuit, and connector in the car. Reading through that will not only help you find the right wires, but gives you an idea how any ECU (stock or MS) interacts with its sensors and actuators.
Corbin
'95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks
Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire
#3915, "RE: Please Help with the rest of the wiring" In response to Reply # 5
im still not sure which wire to connect the fuel pump wire to on the relay. I dont think my ms has a tach input but i know it definately has a tach output. What should i do about the tach input?
Where it says "Pin 37 on DB37", that would normally go to your fuel pump wire coming out of the MS. Your MS has some sort of RPM input wire. Otherwise it is going to have an awfully hard time figuring out when to fire the injectors and ignition. Perhaps you have misinterpreted one of the other wires.
Corbin
'95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks
Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire
#3918, "RE: Please Help with the rest of the wiring" In response to Reply # 7
the only wires i have are
iat,clt,tps,o2,ign,gnd,ig2/3,ig1/4,inj1,inj2,12v,spark output cylinders 1 and 4,spark output cylinders 2 and 3, tachometer output, fan control, and +8v voltage output.
Will one of those crank sensor wires take care of it? Since there is the 8v one and the crank sig wire. Im confused with this tach input thing. It didnt come with two tach wires only one, and its the output. Am i missing something?
