Alright im in the middle of overhauling my 96 avenger(same motor 420a)i hit a deer not to bad but im turboing it before i get all body stuff done. anyways im going to be running a Hahn 16g at around 8psi on stock internals FMIC,Walbro,new injectors(440cc i think so i wont have to upgrade after build) etc. My question is Engine management. Searched around here a little bit and came to the conclusion that Megasquirt seems to be a good option. I want as close to stock driveability since this will be daily driven. Next year i would like to rebuild and my goal would be have 300-350whp in the end.tuning it im not knowledgeable with Standalones but i know a guy that tunes locally that tunes Holleys, Elecromotive and others that could probally do it. What MS do i want and what kind of Stock driveability can i get out of it. who makes them already built?...any other info you can give me would be great thanks
You will want to have MS run your injectors. Tune your fuel, then once you get the hang of it, have it run your injectors and coil pack.
Setup:
MS Hardware: MegaSquirt Version 3 PCB Neon/420a Input and Output mods done to the MS board Run the Mitsu Power Transistor (from junk yard) to fire coil packs from MegaSquirt spark outputs.
You can use your stock temp sensors, but calibrate MS using EasyTherm (search msefi.com). Or if you want you ECU to use the stock sensors (for better idle), just put extra GM temp sensors into the intake and coolant track.
If you want 300whp, the Mitsu power transformer may not work right. Upgrade to either a crane ignition amp or: check out the Tach spikes posts in this forum and see how to mod the crank sensor input of the MS to a VR setup. Then, use the VB921 coil drivers inside the MS instead of the Mitsu Power Transformer.
Software Setup: MS1-Extra (MSnS-extra) version 029t
That should get you started. But learn how to tune your car. You will learn much more about engines, and you should know how to tune your car regulaly. What happens when you change some intake pipes, intercooler, put on a bigger exhaust? You going to keep going to the dyno? Nah. Its more fun to know what your doing and just take 10 min. and retune.
Yes, jamesman and another guy named Randy....his ID slips my mind right now. Best conclusion i got from Randy was that it wasnt worth the money when used on our platform.
If you look on Tuners, Randy is a regular there, he would have more info for you.
i was also looking at the portfueler set up because it is a little more idiot proof for me and seems to have stock driveability....now with that set up will i have to do anything for my ignition?
No you don't have to do anything with ignition with portfueler, but you don't HAVE to with megasquirt either. In fact a lot of people here including myself are only running fuel control right now. But yes portfueler is more "idiot proof" as you put it, and also more expensive.
You will most likely be running so rich (to lower your cylinder temps) that you will be washing out the oil that helps protect your pistons.
If you are thinking of running any kind of reliable high HP car on our platform, you really want to have timing control. That way you can control detonation without sacrificing the longevity of your (expensive) pistons.
Ask how many of us used to have stock pistons, running 8psi and wanted to dial it up a couple more pounds, or did a long pull in fifth gear. You will not want to replace those JE's. I don't want to scare you, but so many of us have gone that way.
Portfueler is merly a quick bandaid to a problem, which in tern, causes other problems. I know because I used to have portfueler and now have MS. I have also dissassembled (multiple times ) my block and noticed the fuel washing out the pistons, causing excess friction, and scuffing the skirts of the pistons.
FYI, I have recently been running (reliably, engine wise) 21psi, on a S16G, daily driver, for over a year now.
#2808, "RE: Questions" In response to Reply # 7 Dec-11-06 03:46 PM by Star Turbo Talon
Originally posted by rs-pssst With Portfueler and higher horsepower: You will most likely be running so rich (to lower your cylinder temps) that you will be washing out the oil that helps protect your pistons. If you are thinking of running any kind of reliable high HP car on our platform, you really want to have timing control. That way you can control detonation without sacrificing the longevity of your (expensive) pistons. Ask how many of us used to have stock pistons, running 8psi and wanted to dial it up a couple more pounds, or did a long pull in fifth gear. You will not want to replace those JE's. I don't want to scare you, but so many of us have gone that way. Portfueler is merly a quick bandaid to a problem, which in tern, causes other problems. I know because I used to have portfueler and now have MS. I have also dissassembled (multiple times ) my block and noticed the fuel washing out the pistons, causing excess friction, and scuffing the skirts of the pistons. FYI, I have recently been running (reliably, engine wise) 21psi, on a S16G, daily driver, for over a year now.
This is very wrong. Incorrect tuning is known to cause damage. The portfueler is a very good alternative to the MS. It is recommended you acquire an ignition box to retard timing IF you need it. 400HP has been achived withot retarding timing and with a 12:1 fuel mixture.
You need to look into what best suits you, the tuner. If MS is a bit much for you then the portfeuler is the next best thing.
It takes much more fuel than you realize to "wash" out a cylinder. Any antique carburated tuner can prove that one. My antique mopar prolly idles at 11:1 and my cylinders look just fine.
Thanks guys for not flaming me and just simply answering what i need to know so many fourms yell at you for what you just dont know....i did the attempt of search and didnt get the answers i wanted...anyways i believe that this week im going to be ordering the portfueler( on sale at hahn ha) it may be a bit more expensive but my lack of tuning knowledge would be more expensive in the end IMO...this seems like the best route for me ill keep you guys posted...thanks again
) my block and noticed the fuel washing out the pistons, causing excess friction, and scuffing the skirts of the pistons.
