I'm planning a rebuild and eventually Megasquirt in a month or two. I'll get the engine (maybe HipHops) then get a Wideband 02. And after a month ditch the SFMU/ 30lbers and dive into the Megasquirt. Which wideband do you guys recommend and would be compatible with the MS for later? I have a exhaust cutout on my DP so putting the sensor on the testpipe wouldn't be so great. Is it possible to switch out the stock front O2 NB sensor with a WB one? THanks
#1360, "RE: Which wideband to go with MS??" In response to Reply # 0
There is no problem replacing your front o2 sensor if you replace it with a wideband that comes with a narrowband output. You put your wb02 sensor in the front spot, send the narrowband signal to make your ecu happy, and send the wideband signal to the ms. I prefer the zeitronix zt-2
-Xavier- 95 Eclipse RS-T...lost in the frozen tundra
#1363, "RE: Which wideband to go with MS??" In response to Reply # 3 Sep-19-05 06:13 PM by RxR_Eclipse
Nate which version of the code do you have? I want to use the aem feed and sell my techedge unit. O yea, I would recomend either the aem unit or the techedge, I have both although the aem unit is nothing more than a gauge for me at the moment.
#1364, "RE: Which wideband to go with MS??" In response to Reply # 4 Sep-19-05 07:34 PM by MCubed45
the AEM gauge is pretty
so the output from the AEM UEGO is non-linear? i thought it had a 0-5v output for use with any stand-alone system. i kinda assumed that was a linear output
*edit* or is there a different output coming from off the gauge than if you had just the controller?
#1365, "RE: Which wideband to go with MS??" In response to Reply # 4
I bet the AEM would work fine with the MS... What kind of output does it have... 0 volts = ?:1 AFR and 5 volts = ?:1 AFR? If you are lucky it will fall into one of the catagories in the config file. If it doesn't and you are really motovated you can always code it in yourself.
I am running the latest alpha revision, 025x1 I believe. I've been playing around with different code versions and different MT versions in an attempt to get the realtime barometric correction to work. I just test drove it for the first time tonight, this code version claims to have software fixes for the ~2600 RPM misfire but I still get it, the datalog says that I get random tach spikes (RPM goes to infinity at random points near 2600 RPM's) I think it has something to do with my VR tachometer input circuit because the new code doesn't fix it nor does the old code.
I think that the solution lies in the adjustment of the 2 potentiometers, one adjusts the hysteresis and one adjust the zero crossing point. Right now I have it tuned so the range of the crank angle sensor output, upper side of R54 (on the 3.0 board) or the heat sink side does not go above 3.0 volts and does not go below 1.0 volts. One of the resistors adjusts the range and other adjusts the center point. It's kind of tricky... I had problems with the Opto isolator circuit so I decided to switch over to the non-isolated VR circuit. The Opto circuit on the -extra site always seemed kind of hokey, there is one pull-up resistor there which sort of defeats the purpose of the isolator. In other words my gut tells me that the schematic is wrong.
#1367, "RE: Which wideband to go with MS??" In response to Reply # 6
Originally posted by ner947 I am running the latest alpha revision, 025x1 I believe. I've been playing around with different code versions and different MT versions in an attempt to get the realtime barometric correction to work. I just test drove it for the first time tonight, this code version claims to have software fixes for the ~2600 RPM misfire but I still get it, the datalog says that I get random tach spikes (RPM goes to infinity at random points near 2600 RPM's)
I also get this misfire, although my rpm never spikes...I'll download this latest version and see if it fixes the burp....
#1369, "RE: Which wideband to go with MS??" In response to Reply # 7
Yeah, the spikes are really annoying. They seem to go away after the engine heats up though... kind of weird. I looked at the raw crank angle waveform with my scope and every now and then it will catch a nasty spike in the negative direction, possibly a result of interference from the ignition wires. Eventually I want to cut the stock ECU off from the crank angle sensor, it's just another device attached to it and who knows what the ECU does to that output. Idealy I would like to run some coax to the sensor, maybe 1 special piece or 2 seperate pieces... The sheild would go to ground and the center conductor would go to the output, maybe run another line with a sheilded power wire. Right now I have the blue wire on the ECU tapped. The control voltage for the sensor is 9 volts...? Either I would have to get a 9 volt regulator or maybe it will still work with 12 or 5 volts?
