So I found out my car was overheating at idle because my fan wasn't turning on. Through process of elimination ended up being fan motor. Took old fan off, moved ac one over (figured I dont use the ac one anyways) and when installing I noticed one of the bolts that hold the fan to the radiator was really long.

Thats when I should not of been a dumb ass and found a shorter bolt... anyways I figured, well it was already there, so tightened everything down, and yeah I must of tightened it with .2lbs to much pressure because it punctured a whole in the upper part of the radiator...

Any ideas how to fix this? Tried JB weld, but it didn't work well, still a tiny hole. Going to try to re-JBweld it and hope for the best, but any other ideas appreciated. Car is still drivable, and the leak is super minimal, but would rather do without it (and do without the whistle its producing).

97 Talon ESi 14.943@91.35MPH N/A!
"If you need someone to provide an itemized build of materials and a flowchart to walk you through every build-related question you will need to answer at each step of the process, you shouldn't be playing with cars. "-Driggs

If JB-Weld doesn't hold (I wouldn't trust it regardless)...pull the radiator and see if you can weld it shut maybe? Material is probably too thin there anyway.

Otherwise you're probably gonna have to source one from a junkyard or off someone here perhaps.

I contributed to the Wiki.

Plastic tanks?

Id try some plastic epoxy.

If not - I think you need a radiator dude.

Its an aluminum radiator (one from radiator barn), so not dealing with plastic

97 Talon ESi 14.943@91.35MPH N/A!
"If you need someone to provide an itemized build of materials and a flowchart to walk you through every build-related question you will need to answer at each step of the process, you shouldn't be playing with cars. "-Driggs

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2012 2500HD LML

Weld......er, not JB Weld. Just weld.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

While pulling the motor the last time for the 10.5:1 motor I accidently let the downpipe slip and popped a hole in the fluidyne that I just got :/ Slapped some JB Weld on it and its been on there ever since, made it from SC to OH and back and many more miles just around town. Not the best/most ideal solution, but it got me by..

I used JB weld to repair a big crack I had in one of the platic end tanks of my rad. It worked for about a months before the whole rad blew up. It would work as a temp fix but I would get it welded.

98 Eclipse GS Turbo
Built motor - MS2 - Holset hy35 - Zoom Stg 4 Clutch - 57.5mm TB - ARP Headstuds - Turbonetics wastegate - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Cobra calipers w/ 13" Rotors - Oil Cooler - DevilsOwn meth injection

1981 Chevy Scottsdale
1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car
2001 BMW 325i

If it's in the plastic part of the radiator you can use fiberglass. I actually did that and mine has held for about 2 weeks.