I want to post this here, so everyone can see it..I'm trying to get some clear info on these clutches..If you have one laying around, take a quick look at it for me. You want to be looking for a brand name marking on it, one is on the front of the pressure plate, its rather small, stamped onto it, towards the outer front edge. It will either say "Luk" or "sachs". Now, flip over the clutch, and look for the markings on the flywheel, "luk" or "sachs". I need to know both brand names, on both sides. Just trying to back up some info i'm researching..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Sachs on both sides. The clutch came out of a 97 Talon.

John 96 GS

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by run4cvr Sachs on both sides. The clutch came out of a 97 Talon.

yeah... mine! And I'm surprised you could read that solid ingot of rust at this point John.

John 96 GS

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I have a LuK in my car right now, I'll be taking it out in about a week. When I do I can take a look at it, get some pics, whatever.

Lets just say this... I'm over 100whp and soon to cross 200whp. Thanx 2GNT! Now if I could only learn to prove it.

98 Modular Talon. Sachs on both sides here too.

Obviously, I have that Non-modular Luk pressure plate in my car right now, though. It's always held great for me. The Sachs one did too, though.

Just for the purpose of this discussion, I counted the number of pressure plate fingers on both. They're both the same number at 18 fingers apiece, although they do look slightly different.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

Hey thanks for that info Jason..My main purpose for this info, was to clear up the issues with the differences between these two clutch parts from Luk and Sachs..I guess now I have found out all the correct info..If anyone has not seen it yet, techboy's thread in the trans section about him having issues with bolting a Clutch Master's PP to a modular flywheel, was not working right, er not bolting up right. This was a good time for this info to come up, since I am going to do the same thing(buy a CM pressure plate meant for a non mod Neon), and bolt my own seudo clutch together, just like i am using at the moment. But in a nutshell, here is what I found out...

Luk and Sachs are the only two "brands" of clutches the NVT-350 uses. ONLY Luk pressure plates are used on the non modular clutch setups, and Sachs are mainly used for the modular, but sometimes the Luk plate is also used, but its less common. But here is the interesting part: There is around a 1/4" contact surface height difference between the luk and sachs flywheels..and also, the actual "thickness" of the pressure plates between the two. The Sachs pressure plate is the "thicker" of the two, and the Sachs flyweel is the "thinner" of the two, and vise versa. So a "thick" pressure plate needs a "thin" flywheel,(and again, vise versa) to make it all work properly. This means that a Luk pressure plate, needs to mate with a Luk flywheel, either a modular, OR non modular flywheel, as they are the same contact surface height wise. And also, a Sachs pressure plate needs a Sachs flywheel. So to sum it all up, Clutch masters specifically uses worked over LUK pressure plates, esp on the non modular units. As for their "modular" rivited units, I'm not sure, but it seems they use the Sachs plate.

So, if anyone wants to go with this custom type of clutch setup, just be aware of what you need to make it work right. AFAIK, CM does not sell a Sachs plate that is used in their modular clutches, separately, which means you will have to buy the LUK meant for the non mod Neon setup. This means you HAVE to use a LUK modular flywheel from a rivited LUK clutch assembly. They are harder to come by, but are out there..Some of you may ask why do this, and the answer is simple: By using a modular flywheel, that when the rivits are drilled out, and then tapped/bolted together, you can retain the stock flexplate(starter plate)for ease of transmission removal/installation, AND have the convienence of a replaceable cltuch disk, at a much lower cost than forking over 700+ for a CM stage 4..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

And just to add - although CM does make a Luk PP and clutch disk for the modular 2GNT, as of my last phone call to them they are NOT making a flywheel. That means you will HAVE to find a modular Luk assembly and drill it apart to get the flywheel, or find one from a Neon. It seems to me it might be worth CM's money to make a modular Luk flywheel for our cars since they are so hard to come by. They would probably end up selling more clutches! Speaking of neons, CM does make some flywheels for the Neon, but I don't know if they'd work for this application or not. I believe they are $425 - not cheap.

So, just to sum up for you guys - You need to use a SACHS PP with a SACHS FW and a Luk PP with a Luk FW. Don't find out the hard way like I did and be out a whole ton of cash.

It seems so simple now, but it took a week and alot of discussion to figure that out. Thanks again to XtremeRS for his help on this matter.

1999 Eclipse GST 4G63

good info to know. It just so happens I have a LUK assembly in my garage and actually a close friend who is a mechanical engineer for LUK. It sounds like the "mystery" has been solved, however I'll call him if more info is requested.


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know me as santiago
boosted 420a and ej2o..(my 2liter v8 eaters)

Interesting... maybe it explains why my clutch seems to never have worked exactly right. It engages and disengages very very high and it seems that it's never really held much power even though it's a custom 5 puck ceramic w/ a sprung hub.

So, do you have any idea what brand the fidanza flywheel is made for? I put my AL fidanza flywheel w/ a LUK pressure plate and custom disk along w/ slight shims (to get the flywheel surface to the correct point b/c the clutch disk was supposedly slightly thick for strength.

I plan on removing the shims when I take it out next and seeing if that helps it, but if the two pressure plates are 1/4" difference, maybe I should try the sachs...? have any thoughts on this?

99GS MT | Star Stage 2 | GC coilovers | HurriganeGS tie bars | Tokico Illuminas | 17x7 Enkei RS5 | Baer track brakes |+