Last week I lost all the pressure in my clutch pedal and could not get into gear. I noticed there was no fluid in the resivoir. I bled the clutch line and filled up the fluid and the pedal felt ok but a little low. Well then my starter died and I had to wait to put a new one in. So today I put in the new starter and took it for a drive. The clutch felt real low still. And again tonight the clutch died on me but I was close to home so I cruised back stuck in second gear. My question is where should I look for posible leaking points? Is there something that may be more proned to leaking? I am going to check it in the morning so any help would be great. Thanks
Patrick
96 GS
14.14 @ 96.5 mph on 8psi 8 Nov.02
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

Oh the old clutch fuild drain. I know it so well.

Follow the hard line form the clutch master cylinder and trace it all the way to the slave cylinder. If you do not see any leaks, then you most likely have one or more of the cylinders go bad.

Look for leaks, THEN start replacing parts.

Not really hard at all to replace the cylinders.

Jonathan
95 Eclipse GS
8 injector
Hahn Stage 3.5
Howell 2.2L Stroker

T O T A L L E D, T H A N K S T O S O M E A S S H A T!!!!!!!!!!!!

I looked tonight and there is fluid all over underneath the slave cylinder on the frame member where the front motor mount is. There is no fluid anywhere on the hard line. So I guess I have to replace the slave cylinder. Did you buy a new one or did you buy a rebuild kit? If you did buy the cylinder where and how much was it? Thanks
Patrick
96 GS
14.14 @ 96.5 mph on 8psi 8 Nov.02
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

I had the exact same problem i thought it was the Slave cylinder but it was really the fitting that went into the slave cylinder. I dont understand what happend but i went and got a new hardline w/fitting and it hasnt leaked sense.

Try getting the kit and if that don't work go to a chrysler dealer and get a slave cylinder for a talon...it's like $80. The install is pretty easy...two bolts and the hardline to unscrew...make sore to bleed it.
Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch

I had the same problem, it looked like the slave cylinder, but it was actually the little fitting on the hard line. I replaced the hardline, and no problems since.

93 Tsi AWD-SAFC I, Apexi N1 turbo back, MBC, K&N w/ hacked can,
Walbro 255, Accel wires, 650cc injectors, stage 3 dsmchip

97 Neon ACR-Stock

Sorry to dig this old one up again, but I replaced my clutch master cylinder after the clutch just plain stopped engaging, but the clutch only felt good and solid for about a day. It's been 3 months, and it's still working now, but is very sluggish and engages very low.

I went to a tranny/clutch shop run by some guys I sort of know, and they say everything is fine and dry, that the huge stain under my clutch pedal that keeps growing and growing is just brake fluid. BS. Anyways, I found this through a search and keep hearing about this 'hard line' and fittings that go between cylinders, and I'm guessing that's what my problem is. I was just wondering, where is this line located, where can I buy the line and fittings, what's the part # if any, and how easy is it to install?

I even thought I heard someone say they got a steel-braided line for this purpose, and I'd really like to get my hands on that. When I mentioned that to the guys at the clutch shop, they looked at me like I was a retard. "You just wanna get some fancy line you don't need, eh sonny? You'd have to go to some sort of ricer race shop for a part like that!" ha. ha. ha.

"No a-hole, I just want to fix the SOB so it doesn't leak anymore."



TIA, as always.

Nicholas

http://www.snuFaluFagus.com --- electronic music made by me - hard house, drum and bass, trip hop, metal, breaks, etc...

Well, here's the thing: The clutch "fluid" really IS brake fluid, so if they're saying that that's not a problem, then they don't know what they're talking about. (Secondly on a side note, any hydraulic fluid coming into the car should be dealt with, clutch or not).

I'd investigate that. It sounds to me like you have a leaky master cylinder, but I've been wrong before

The hard line is the steel line that connects the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. The master cylinder is located on the brake booster, up near the firewall, near the windshield washer reseviour. It has a line that goes from it, all the way to the slave cylinder on the front side of the tranny near the starter area.

Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

Originally posted by ForceFed420a
Well, here's the thing: The clutch "fluid" really IS brake fluid, so if they're saying that that's not a problem, then they don't know what they're talking about. (Secondly on a side note, any hydraulic fluid coming into the car should be dealt with, clutch or not). I'd investigate that. It sounds to me like you have a leaky master cylinder, but I've been wrong before The hard line is the steel line that connects the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. The master cylinder is located on the brake booster, up near the firewall, near the windshield washer reseviour. It has a line that goes from it, all the way to the slave cylinder on the front side of the tranny near the starter area. Brian

http://www.snuFaluFagus.com --- electronic music made by me - hard house, drum and bass, trip hop, metal, breaks, etc...

http://www.2gnt.com/CAPS/main21/main21sub210.html


part number MB910565

PNC 20157


Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

You replaced the entire master cylinder, then? If you're still getting fresh fluid inside the cabin above the pedal, it could be that the unit you got was defective, imo. Inside the cabin is a sign of the master failing. It happened to me and I bought the rebuild kit from Napa for about $30.

If nothing else, you should get under there and clean the area thoroughly so you can check it daily to see if that is, in fact, where it is leaking from this time around.

As for the stainless line, you can buy it from RRE for $20. I can't say how hard it is to install, as mine has been hanging in a bag in the garage for a couple months now, easily. Shouldn't be too hard to do.

Just be sure you troubleshoot the problem down until you are certain what is wrong with your car before you go buying all kinds of parts. Save yourself time and money!