Is anyone using this headgasket to lower their compression. I think it is a good idea to make my bottom end last longer. I will be running a Star Stage 1 with a Starion front mount. I would like to run 10psi daily with this gasket. Lots of people blow motors due to leaky headgaskets because of the higher compression.

http://www.ttiracing.com/Headgasket.htm

Any thoughts? As you can all tell, I research things to death before I jump into anything. Thanks guys :)

BTW: I did buy the exhaust manifold gasket from them......looks killer

if you want to run 10 lbs daily, i would recommend more than just replacing your HG...just a thought.


kaiser

Check here for a thinker HG for lowering compression.

http://www.ttiracing.com

You may want to increase the fuel to the engine to make sure 10psi will be safe, get 330cc injectors and a S-AFC.

Missing Car. . .
Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Do ask them to provide some hard data on reliability under boost. Engineering an effective, true multi-layer gasket is complex and expensive (I know, as we have looked into it!). Spacer plates can be troublesome.

BHjr

i thought lower compression on turbo was bad?

if you lower your compression and up the boost its the samething as keeping your compression normal and not going crazy with the boost. you will get the same horsepower regardless. rebuild is the only way to go but even then your not really safe your just better off.

More boost and lower compression makes more power than higher compression and less boost.

Missing Car. . .
Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

how do you figure???

http://www.audifans.com/archives/1995/02/msg00552.html

http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/boostcompression.html

A LOT OF READING BUT HAVE FUN. Unless you have 100 octane to use all the time, you may want to make more power by lowering the CR and turning up the boost.




Missing Car. . .
Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

dude, did you even read those links yourself...what dont you get? ex. 9.5:1 @ 10 psi will give you a c.r. of 16.0:1(our stock car basically).. sure lower it to 8.5:1 @10psi will give you 14.3:1. now to get that low compression back up to what our cars used to do, you have to boost it even more...hence a few more pounds of pressue to get you back to whatever will equal 16.0:1. Do you understand??? it all eaquals out, the only reason people rebuild thier bottom end is to put stronger parts in it..sure you can lower the compression to be able to boost higher, but you still will put nearly the same compression in the engine to get the same horsepower. (silly ex.lower your cmpression to 2.0:1 and boost untill you reach 16.0:1 and youll see what im saying...it wont be any faster. the pressure of the engine will add with the turbo giving you the same results...)all that crap about octane..sure its true but even with lowered comp when you get back up to high comp with turbo you will still need higher octane...in case you didnt know..octane is just a measurement (they dont actually put it in the gas.

8.5 : 1 16.6 CR at 14 psi


9.5 : 1 16.0 CR at 10 psi

If it's the same then how come when the turboed guys crank up the boost with a lower compression they make a LOT more power, how come they still aren't making 250hp but they are making more? When you lower the compression you are making the cumbustion chamber larger which allows you to cram more air in the engine, more air + more gas = more power




Missing Car. . .
Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

yes you get more power by cranking up the boost. those two figures you just put up are a very good example. cars with each one of those figures will be very close, especially if you cranked the boost up on the 9.5:1 to make his final compression 16.6:1 as well. actually if you did that he'd be faster due to the higher(nA) compression and less turbo lag. THINK ABOUT IT.

also an eclipse rs w/ turbo kit can beat an eclipse gst w/stock boost. why? because of the higher compression, the stock gst would have to crank his boost up to keep up with an rs with 8 psi, he would atleast have to double it.

I was always told that if you dont lower the compression ratio, and run higher boost, you will blow up the engine a lot easier...

yes engine would probably blow----- this would happen due to heat of compression. With the lower compression you create less heat than with having higher compression. The higher the compression the more heat it generates in it's compression stage. Heat is very bad for internals that is why we use lower compression pistons when boosting...