I bought it from a neon guy, and it doesnt have the instructions or anything...just the BOV and Flange pipe. theres a screw in the back of it under the vaccum fitting? how do I hook this up?

Now for the wastegate(internal) I have 2 ports on the actuator...which one does what? I dont have pictures yet...I'll get them asap

Umm, hook a vacuum line to the bov. Have you tried a search at all?

Post a pic so we know what your talking about with the wastegate.

its called a dual port actuator....and yes I tried to search but from what i've seen the HKS is supposed to come with a kit with all different kinds of fittings and tees and what nots, I just dont see anywhere it says about where the screw on the back comes into play

Originally posted by bigrob3232
its called a dual port actuator....and yes I tried to search but from what i've seen the HKS is supposed to come with a kit with all different kinds of fittings and tees and what nots, I just dont see anywhere it says about where the screw on the back comes into play

There is one vacuum port on the back, hook a vacuum line up to it. Voila, done. If it's a geniune HKS ssqv, the screw on the back is to control the amount of travel with the diaphram. On the knockoffs, it can either control that or the spring tension.

do you know about the dual port actuators?

what are you using for boost control?
most boost controlers will have instructions for hooking up their controler to single port / dual port actuators.
usually one is from the compressor outlet side and the other is from the boost controller stepping motor itself.


the port on the SSQV is for a vaccuum line from the manifold with an inline filter (one way), some people run the filter others dont

-Adjustment- (applies to Genuine HKS only)
First you should know that the usual tight/loose rules do not apply here.
The adjustment only affects the outside black valve, not the inside purple valve.
No matter how loose you adjust the bov, it will not leak. However, if you adjust it too loose, the parts inside will come apart and possibly jam the bov.
For most applications you want the loosest setting, which allows the bigger valve to open faster loosing all of the compressed air
If you adjust the bov more tight, the air will only come out of the small valve first, then the larger valve, depending on the tension. This will create a louder high pitched sound for the small valve, and a smaller deep pitched sound for the large valve. Some people like the bov tightened all the way for maximum "shreek" upon release.

You need a 10mm wrench to adjust. Loosen the nut closest to the bov slightly. Now you can adjust the top bolt to your liking. Go for a drive. Once the bolt is where you like it, turn the nut to the right to "lock" that position. Do not over tighten the bottom nut. Again, be careful not to over-loosen the top bolt. If you loosen it too much, it will come right out.

I have no boost controler the actuator supposed to be set at 7.5 psi...thats the most I am going to run...from what i've read on here a boost controller can only up the boost instead of lower it. How else could I lower the boost since I only have stock internals?

Originally posted by bigrob3232
I have no boost controler the actuator supposed to be set at 7.5 psi...thats the most I am going to run...from what i've read on here a boost controller can only up the boost instead of lower it. How else could I lower the boost since I only have stock internals?

You can modify the wastegate spring to lower the boost pressure. I've never done it but if you search around you should be able to find out how. I believe it is addressed in GSgoinfast's write-up, but I'm not sure how much detail he goes into.

What are you using for fuel setup?

Also FMIC or SMIC?

You will see a drop in pressure from the turbo to the intake manifold if you are intercooled. More with a FMIC than a SMIC, but I'd say the average is 1-2psi. That means you will probably be around 5.5-6.5psi on your boost gauge

Yeah I've read gsgoinfast's report many many many many times...and will probably read it many more...as for my fuel setup. I have the walbro 255 lph hp, FCD from an active member, and just the 12:1 FMU, I am going to upgrade to the SFMU later when I can afford it. I wasnt aware of the SFMU when I first started this project. as for intercooler I have a FMIC its not big though its about 24"x8"x3" its also a same side inlet/outlet. I have 2 3/4" piping feeding the intercooler and the motor as well.

No, Gsgoinfast wastegate mod is to raise the boost pressure, not lower it. You re stuck with 7 psi unless you find another wastegate.

Terry

gsgoinfast lowered his boost to 4#s with a spring and nut effect that he put on his actuator rod. at least thats what he claims in the report....on the other hand...it says its set to 7.5 but none of that really matters to me right now...I just need to know how to hook it up?

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
No, Gsgoinfast wastegate mod is to raise the boost pressure, not lower it. You re stuck with 7 psi unless you find another wastegate. Terry

No Terry, the wastegate spring mod lowers the boost. I did it when I was on an internal wastegate setup. Just go to a hardware store and buy some springs that could fit around the wastegate rod and some washers possibly. I lowered mine down from like a 12 psi wastegate down to a 3 with 2 springs. If I would have taken the 1 spring out, it would have been at 6 psi. That's what your going to have to do to lower your boost pressure.

To hook up your wastegate, just add a vacuum line from either the compressor housing or your intake manifold to it.

thanks for backing me total eclipse