Just to be sure... since the weather is colder now when I start the car or let it idle... I can hear the walbro pump doing a weird noise... not the normal noise when it pump, its more like a gasp sound. It it normal ?

Well, on the two that I've had go bad, they started to make a noise like they were sucking up air periodicly and gargling.....rather subtle though. Don't know if its a certainty that the pump is on the way out but thats what mine both started doing.

Try removing the filter sock. If that fixes it, replace it immediately.

Also check that you mounted it correctly in the bracket. If you drilled a new hole in the bracket instead of cutting the brass inlet, you mounted it wrong. It's also super easy to misalign the 4 little plastic feet with the rubber noise damper.

Obviously if the pump is pushing air, it will fail. It's less of an indicator that the pump's going bad and more of the reason the pump will soon break down.

Originally posted by thedawg
Try removing the filter sock.

Did you mean the filter at the bottom of the pump ? Run the car without that filter ?. As for the mounting bracking, ive just drilled it as showed in the how to section.

I am not certain that my issues were definitely sucking up air, just that the sound I heard reminded me of such a thing. I haven't heard of cutting the brass inlet before, only the re-drill mod on quite a few other sites. Any more info on how this actually makes the pump seat any better? I'm pretty sure the outlet spouts on the stock pump and the walbro are the same length so I dont see how it would seal any better. Especially considering that the o-ring simply needs to be seated in the spout which it does even at the stock length. All I can see is that it would bring the sock up off the tank floor that by that 1/4". Not saying its not the correct way, just wondering WHY it would be the correct way.

Originally posted by jack_of_trades
I'm pretty sure the outlet spouts on the stock pump and the walbro are the same length so I dont see how it would seal any better. Especially considering that the o-ring simply needs to be seated in the spout which it does even at the stock length.

There's lots of confusion on this because 95/96 and 97/99s have different brass inlets on the tank cap. It doesn't matter though, you cut off enough so that you can put the walbro outlet right up against it and clamp it down with a fuel hose. Got the o-ring model? Cut off the brass bell, use a fuel hose, and clamp it down. Got the long brass tube clamp model? Cut the long brass tube till the walbro fits.

The walbro outlet and the stock outlet ARE the same size, but the body of the pump on a walbro is longer.

So all this mod does is raise the sock a 1/4" higher? So it actually has no gain over the seal of the brass inlet? It must not because if I had a bad seal I would drop pressure after shut off which I can hold for a LONGGGGGG time, far longer than required by spec. Granted, I see where having the full area of the sock exposed is key, but does it actually get restricted if it is keep the stock length??

Don't think I'm argueing here...just bringing all the info to the table on the two ways this can be done.

Originally posted by jack_of_trades
So all this mod does is raise the sock a 1/4" higher? So it actually has no gain over the seal of the brass inlet?

This has nothing to do with the seal, it has to do with where the sock sits in the tank. If you move the bracket, it changes where the sock sits. If you make up for the extra length by cutting the fuel lid, it lets the sock sit in the OEM position. The seal should be perfect no matter which way you choose to do it.
It also has nothing to do with how the fuel pressure drops off, that is controlled by the check valve crimped to the neck of the Walbro pump.

Originally posted by thedawgIt also has nothing to do with how the fuel pressure drops off, that is controlled by the check valve crimped to the neck of the Walbro pump.

Actually, the seal around the neck of the fuel pump DOES have to do with dropping fuel pressure too. Obviously the purpose of the check valve is to prevent fuel to go back thru the pump and to preverve the pressure in the line. A leaking O-ring or rubber tube would allow the pressure loss just the same, just from sneaking around the check valve spout rahter than thru the pump. So it does play a factor and is a very important seal to have so people should be certain that its sealed well.

Originally posted by jack_of_trades
A leaking O-ring or rubber tube would allow the pressure loss just the same. So it does play a factor and is a very important seal to have.

Why would you have a leaking Oring or rubber tube? Nobody said to throw away all the seals. I'm trying to show you a way to replace the old o-ring method with the hoseclamped rubber method used in the newer DSMs, and make room for the extra length of the Walbro at the same time.
They both seal perfectly.
Look at the pretty red picture.

Ok ok, lol. You do realize that someone can have a bad seal with the lovely hose clamp method too right? It's not often but it does happen and an area people should be sure is tighten well enough. We both know kids on here just pop stuff on their cars and then have fuel related issues later. What I'm saying is for people to know that this seal is important and to be sure its tightened well.

Originally posted by jack_of_trades
someone can have a bad seal with the lovely hose clamp method too right?
this seal is important and to be sure its tightened well.

It's pretty tough to have a bad seal unless you're using the wrong size of rubber fuel line tubing, or the tube is cracked. I've put the hose on without any clamps at all for fitment and testing and it didn't leak.

But you're right, the seal is very important, whether you use an O-ring or a clamped fuel line. It should be perfect and stable up to 120psi.

Either way, a bad seal won't burn up the Walbro, it'll just cause you to lose fuel pressure. Chlorure was complaining of funny noises which are often caused by the sock getting smashed against the bottom of the tank by an incorrect install. A blocked intake would burn up the Walbro and cause weird cavitation noises.

Well, I decided to alter my FP install like you said since it makes sense. I also replaced my fuel pump strainer while I was in there. Took a few snapshots along the way too.


Remove the fuel pump assembly.

This is all the parts you will need for this simple mod.

WASH THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY WITH SOAPY WATER AND RINSE BEFORE CUTTING!!
You will need to cut off the brass inlet where the stock o-ring slides into.
Cut the brass inlet off where it connects to the tubing.
Remove any burrs or metal debri from inside the tubing.


Step 1.Slide the 5/16" hose over the tubing.
Step 2.Slide the 2 clamps over the hose.
Step 3.Plug in the fuel pump connector and slide the fuel pump outlet into the hose end.
Step 4.Install the brass "L" bracket onto the base of the fuel pump assembly before clamping down the rubber hose.

Once the assembly is installed in the factory location, tighten down the hose clamps.

VOILA!! A Walbro 255LPH fuel pump installed in the factory location without bottoming out on the bottom of tank, suffocating the bottom of the fuel pump strainer and picking up debri that settles on the bottom of the tank.

Originally posted by jack_of_trades
VOILA!! A Walbro 255LPH fuel pump installed in the factory location without bottoming out on the bottom of tank, suffocating the bottom of the fuel pump strainer and picking up debri that settles on the bottom of the tank.

Great writeup, thats exactly how I do it. Thanks for the pics, I'm usually too lazy to take good pics.
Also, the only thing you have to do to convert back to a stock 2gnt fuel pump is get a longer piece of rubber hose.

I copied your writeup into the wiki. :thumbsup
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Walbro%20255lph-HP%20pump%20install%20in%20stock%20pump%20bracket

Haha, thats cool. I'm gonna put that up my my website too. Can never have too much 'good' 2G info on the web lol.

Originally posted by ChloRure

Originally posted by thedawg Try removing the filter sock.

Did you mean the filter at the bottom of the pump ? Run the car without that filter ?. As for the mounting bracking, ive just drilled it as showed in the how to section.

Ok drilling it is wrong, and is the reason most 2gnt people fuck up their Walbro. Obviously there are people that disagree with me, but think about what you did by moving the bracket.
Go back to using the original hole, and cut about 1/4" off the brass outlet, and the rubber hose. You don't need the nipple on the gas tank lid, it will stay just fine as a straight cut tube. (You DO need the nipple on the Walbro, and be very careful because it will pop off inside the rubber fuel hose.)

Fix the mount BEFORE screwing with the filter sock or you will make it worse.

And yes, the filter sock is the thing that hangs off the pump, about 2" square, and is supposed to be bright white, but yours is probably dark yellow or grey.

Great writeup ! The only thing I mess is to cut the brass. Thanks a lot!