If the nut on top is only finger tight will that cause a leak that would prevent an increase in fp. I would think it would, but I don't want to take it out again and test before having anothers opinion b/c I'm not keen on running 'blow up' levels of lean. Can't say I've ever seen the answer to this and it's not on vortech's site either.

Here's the background if you're interested, just got the car back after quite a while. I took it for a little boosting and it was running much leaner than usual. NBO2 gauge was reading .82 volts. This is with stock injectors.

I've got my 30# accels laying around so I put them in change to 2.72" disc and largest ring w/dark spring. I drop the idle fp down to 26-28 (as low as it will go with -4an return line) Take it out for a spin, immediately when the engine starts seeing boost the a/f gauge nose dives 50...30...20...let off.

Ok well people have used the largest disk with no ring and a bleed valve with 30# injectors before so I switch back. Take another test drive and back to .80-.82 under boost. Still way low, my car has always run around .88-.90 and run wonderfully at that amount.

In both cases, I believe that the nut on top was only finger tight. I tightened it up and am going to replace the vacuum line before taking it back out but thought I'd get some opinions here first.

anyone???

Wow this is dead.

Anyways it wasn't that nut, it's still lean, now I'm busy racking my brain and searching. I have a feeling my sfmu isn't raising fp like it should but can't figure out why?

Just tested the sfmu with an air compressor, got my fp up to 100psi or so, now I'm even more confused. Guess the next step is to take the hood off and get a reading of fp under boost

Well I feel like an idiot. I had the top screw too far out. I discovered this when I went to check my static pressure and discovered it wasn't any higher than idle. So I decided I would turn the top screw in until it started to increase my fp, boy I had to turn a long way. Once I got there, I tested static again, and it shot right up, took it for a test drive and bingo, problem solved.

Anyways, I'm now happily boosting with my nbo2 gauge reading .90 volts. Which is a little above what I used to see, but I still expected much more considering I've still got the largest disc in, no bleed valve and 30#'ers. Oh well I'm happy.

To top it off, I went cruising around and found a dude with a 1g awd, with 20g aem standalone, etc. Nice, a running car, and a new DSM buddy