After 12-1/2 months, and lots of blood, sweat and tears... we got the green beast started today... she's alive!!!

Here's a video of one of the first startups (high idle to keep the Crane 18 cams idling): www.bluebayelectronics.com/dougie2/videos/MFG_GS_video6.AVI

Here's a few pics from yesterday when it was almost done:













Also, special thanks to Joe (BOOSTED ECLIPSE) and my brother Matt for helping out.

Sweet Mother of God


...your check engine light is on :+
and where'd you get that manifold, again?

the manifold gives me a boner every time I see it. Almost time for some numbers maybe???

dare I ask what that computer is for?

Damn thats pretty tight, good job with it looks great, I cant wait! til mine is boosted. Have you taken it down the road yet and get the full experience?

Think that mani was from member here, but anyhow, that thing sounds beastly. I can only imagine what it sounds like under full load.

sweet manifold . i would kill to have a nice garage like that

That's just plain f'kin sick.

Omg!

You'll definately have to post some video of it under load (at the dyno or track) once you have it tuned a broke in.

Nice work there Doug! Boy, that mani looks like a tight fit haha..is the hood going to close over it? How much room is left between the pipe and the hood? In case you guys didnt notice, the computer was for the Megasquirt..it's obviously running the engine :)

Very nice! Way to go guys! :thumbsup

nope thats the laptop computer. Im talking about the black one in the first pic.

Eagle eye Ivan on the case, do we have our own dyno? Much respect on a beatifully executed Eclipse, can't wait to see the numbers.

Are you strickly running for race? don't see how you are going to put your fans back on the radiator with that monster sitting there! :)

Radiator fans are in front of the radiator.

Desktop computer is most likely for internet support such as megasquirt info, Repair specs and parts info. I use a laptop with wireless in mine that i have mitchell on demand loaded up for torque specs ect. Its so much easier than shop manuals. I doubt Doug has 90k sitting around for a dynapack dyno.

Congrats Doug on getting her back up and running again.

Terry

Yeah, a shoputer I bet. I also got a wireless card on my MS laptop for the same reasons.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Desktop computer is most likely for internet support such as porn, nekkidness, and more porn.

Fixed, lol.

Very nice Doug!

What BOV is that??

I cant remember what turbo that is, almost looks like my GT35...Maybe a FP3065 or something along that end???

Makes me want to keep mine.

Thanks for the compliments guys... just have a few minor things to finish up before we can start tuning. After we get a good base tune, we'll be fabricating a new intake manifold, then getting the car ready to race (cage, suspension, slicks, wheelie bar, etc.)

Originally posted by XtremeRS
Boy, that mani looks like a tight fit haha..is the hood going to close over it?

Yeah, the hood closes just fine with plenty of clearance.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Desktop computer is most likely for internet support such as megasquirt info, Repair specs and parts info.

Nah... the computer is part of an alignment machine. It's for sale if anyone is interested. Originally $25,000 selling for $2,000. It's a truely professional machine, came from a local Goodyear.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
What BOV is that?? I cant remember what turbo that is, almost looks like my GT35...Maybe a FP3065 or something along that end???

HKS Racing Type-II BOV. Forced Performance turbocharger.

Wow, Looks good, It brought a tear to my eye to see my manifold and IC setup back in action. I cannot wait to see some numbers! Best of luck!
Paul

It looks awesome! Great set-up.
That sounds niiiiice.

DROOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLL!

Originally posted by dougie2Yeah, the hood closes just fine with plenty of clearance.

That's a 2.0L right? How much clearance are we talking?

Oh good lord. That thing sounds amazing.

The car sounds great!

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by dougie2Yeah, the hood closes just fine with plenty of clearance.

That's a 2.0L right? How much clearance are we talking?

Hood will not close with a 2.4L I had to chop up mine so it would close. and it still dented it a bit.

Originally posted by extreme97nt
Hood will not close with a 2.4L I had to chop up mine so it would close. and it still dented it a bit.

yeah, i didn't think so.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by dougie2Yeah, the hood closes just fine with plenty of clearance.

That's a 2.0L right? How much clearance are we talking?

Yeah, It's a 2.0 and the hood closes, but I'm not sure of the clearance (Doug checked it). I know we will need to put some heat sheilding on the under side of the hood though.

I am sure doug will post again soon. Just left the house had some minor problems with the green beast, we will have those fixed soon. However we did notice the hood barely`rubbed after the first drive with the new setup. Engine WILL produce alot of power..... it is evident......

PD Mechanical Tensioner = RATSMOKE TRASHPILE MF JUNK.

Well, the mechanical tensioner has already failed. It's simply not up to the task when it comes to the big ass Crane 18 cams. Luckily we caught it before any damage occured. This week, it'll be replaced by a MOPAR hydralic plunger setup that I'm sure IS up to the task.

We did get to drive it though, and everything went great. :-) The new ClutchMasters Stage 6 is insane, that's all I can say. Matt's right... this motor WILL make a lot of power. That's a promise.

My air:fuel ratios around 100 KPA have gone from 12.5:1 (old setup) to over 18:1 (new setup) with the same VE table table from the old 20G setup. This is a drastic change in VE and indicates that airflow is WAY up, which it should be. Even upping my REQ_FUEL by +1.5, I still wasn't getting enough fuel to the engine to get into boost... it's running extrmely lean. A lot of VE and spark advance tuning is going to be required.

Slicks and rims are coming this week and hopefully some more pics and video.

how did it fail?

I can't wait to get some numbers for that thing, wow. So you bringin it to the shootout in 07? =)

By the way I really like your interior.

Originally posted by Chamuko
how did it fail?

x2. details please

Not sure what exactly has caused it to fail. We haven't pulled it out yet. What happened was the tensioner started to make a rattling sound that got worse as time went on, then it started to lose tension.

We are going to pull it out this weekend to see what happened and to put in a new hydraulic tensioner.

Long day.

We found out today that the tensioner itself did not fail. It was simply installed incorrectly. The instructions that come with the tensioner SUCK.

So... after we re-adjusted the tensioner and fixed that problem, the engine would only run on 2 cylinders. We started changing stuff (coil, wires, plugs, etc.) but it starting firing on all 4 out of nowhere. Hmmm... strange.

So... then we take it out for a drive and everything is good except for the fact that it sputters and goes lean right before 100 kpa (between 5 and 0 in. hg.). The problem is that no matter how much I add to the VE table, the will not richen up for anything in the world (even if I bump REQ_FUEL to 10.0 and increase VE values to 140). At that point I thought maybe the overlap from the Crane 0018 cams was the problem. We took out some overlap (intake +4 and exhaust -2). The engine really liked that a lot but the sputtering and going lean still occured right before 100 kpa. Note that it is so bad that the engine will not accelerate into boost at all. Very irritating.

I really think this is an ignition related issue. The ignition has not been changed at all since last motor was removed, and it worked fine before. Adjusting the dwell did not help and neither did adjusting the spark advance up/down. I do know that I have a weak battery-to-chassis ground and I'm now running a super small battery (it's essentially a motorcycle battery). I tried different plugs today as well and that didn't help. They did seem to foul out quickly all day though.

I guess we're going to go ahead and install a Crane Fireball ignition and swap in a new Mitsu ignitor too. While we're at it, might as well re-install a full size battery and relocate to the back hatch area. Hopefully this will fix the problem.

Any insight guys? It's my understanding that ignition issues can make it appear to be running lean and this is an ignition issue and not a fuel issue. Remember, no matter how much I add to the VE table, the will not richen up.

Doug, after setting down and thinking things over. We adjusted the cams wrong. We should have advanced the exhaust cam and retarded the intake cam to take out overlap (we added overlap). :wallbash That's what happens when you try do things when your tired.

It was my impression that we increased the lobe separation, which reduces overlap.

Here's the specs for my cams:
DURATION I/E: 258/258
LOBE SEPARATION: 110
GROSS LIFT: 394/394

So with both cams zero'd out, we got 38 degrees of overlap (258+258 divided by 4 then subtract 110 and multiply by 2).

And after we dialed in 6 degrees of lobe separation (+4 on the intake and -2 on the exhaust), we got 26 degrees of overlap (258+258 divided by 4 then subtract 116 and multiply by 2).

And if we dialed in 8 degree of lobe separation by retarding the exhaust 2 more degrees, we'd get 22 degrees of overlap (258+258 divided by 4 then subtract 118 and multiply by 2).

Does this sound right to you, or am I missing something here?

Originally posted by dougie2
It was my impression that we increased the lobe separation, which reduces overlap. Here's the specs for my cams: DURATION I/E: 258/258 LOBE SEPARATION: 110 GROSS LIFT: 394/394 So with both cams zero'd out, we got 38 degrees of overlap (258+258 divided by 4 then subtract 110 and multiply by 2). And after we dialed in 6 degrees of lobe separation (+4 on the intake and -2 on the exhaust), we got 26 degrees of overlap (258+258 divided by 4 then subtract 116 and multiply by 2). And if we dialed in 8 degree of lobe separation by retarding the exhaust 2 more degrees, we'd get 22 degrees of overlap (258+258 divided by 4 then subtract 118 and multiply by 2). Does this sound right to you, or am I missing something here?

No, we actually decreased lobe separation. I hope I can explain this. Look at the engine when one of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke. When the piston is at or near the top of the exhaust stroke, if the exhaust is retarded the valve will close later. And if the intake is advance the intake valve will open sooner. This will cause the valves to be open at the same time causing valve overlap.

So, if we retard the intake and advance the exhaust. This will cause the exhaust valve to close sooner and the intake to open later causing less overlap.

I hope I made sense. :shrug

The fact that you were running on 2 cylinders before really makes me think its an ignition prob. Had this happen to me yesterday, out of no where. Switched to the factory setup while stranded and ran perfect... not even a cel.

Originally posted by BOOSTED ECLIPSE
No, we actually decreased lobe separation. I hope I can explain this. Look at the engine when one of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke. When the piston is at or near the top of the exhaust stroke, if the exhaust is retarded the valve will close later. And if the intake is advance the intake valve will open sooner. This will cause the valves to be open at the same time causing valve overlap. So, if we retard the intake and advance the exhaust. This will cause the exhaust valve to close sooner and the intake to open later causing less overlap. I hope I made sense. :shrug

Ah, I see... so that's another thing we need to adjust. I still don't think that's the main issue, but we definetely need to go back and reduce that overlap. I'm ordering the Crane box today so we have a solid ignition system to work with.

On a side note, we ordered a GT4088R for the GSX today... and the Lincoln 225 TIG welder will be here on Wednesday. }(

Originally posted by dougie2

Originally posted by BOOSTED ECLIPSE No, we actually decreased lobe separation. I hope I can explain this. Look at the engine when one of the cylinders is on the exhaust stroke. When the piston is at or near the top of the exhaust stroke, if the exhaust is retarded the valve will close later. And if the intake is advance the intake valve will open sooner. This will cause the valves to be open at the same time causing valve overlap. So, if we retard the intake and advance the exhaust. This will cause the exhaust valve to close sooner and the intake to open later causing less overlap. I hope I made sense. :shrug

Ah, I see... so that's another thing we need to adjust. I still don't think that's the main issue, but we definetely need to go back and reduce that overlap. I'm ordering the Crane box today so we have a solid ignition system to work with. On a side note, we ordered a GT4088R for the GSX today... and the Lincoln 225 TIG welder will be here on Wednesday. }(

Yeah, I also think most of the problem is ignition. Hopefully the crane box will fix it.

Matt called me a few minutes ago to tell me about the GT4088R. He was giggling like a little girl. :P

The problem turned out to be a loose battery ground. Fixed that and reduced the cam overlap and she now runs like a champ!

The motor's now broken in and tuning starts this week... which means new boosting videos are on the way. :D

Another update...

After admiring the new GT40R turbo that came in from Forced Performance today, we pulled the green beast out of the shop for our first tuning session. I was quite excited.

The laptop was hooked up, MegaTune was open on the laptop, coolant got to 160, I gave up the drivers seat to my brother Matt and sat down in the passenger seat... ready to put a smack-down tune on this beast. As soon as Matt pushed the clutch pedel, the damn clutch fork snapped again! Clean in half. Fuck.

It's actually the second time it's happened. The first time was immediately after we installed the ClutchMaster's stage 6 racing clutch. The stock clutch fork was too thick and came in contact with the pressure plate, causing it to crack. So, I got a brand new MOPAR fork, shaved it down 1/8" and welded in a structural triange of 5/16" cold rolled steel rod around the pivot point. This is the fork that snapped today.

Joe told me that I should've welded in some more steel rod inside the arm of the fork before installing it, but I didn't listen. Well... that's exactly where it broke. So, out comes the tranny again, and another new fork will have to be made. I'll be TIG welding this one together and it will be BEEFY. This clutch is wicked.

Doug, I clicked your link in your sig hoping to find more pics, but as I was reading through your mods, I seen it said

"Racing PSI" and next to it said, 35.

I'm not afraid of boost. I'll run at LEAST 35 PSI on this new setup.

good lord... i had no idea a 420a could sound like that... i want turbo...bad ;(

Originally posted by dougie2
I'm not afraid of boost. I'll run at LEAST 35 PSI on this new setup.

OMG.. omg.. .... ...

uh.. im speachless. YOU BETTER GET A VIDEO of that absolute monster hitting 35psi


Nick
97RS