The stock fuel rail on this car has a ton of internal volume so I chose to use it over going aftermarket. I just got it back from my welder and am pretty happy w/ the outcome. The super tiny 90* inlet was cutoff and welded shut, both end caps were cut and replaced with 6an weld fittings. By cutting off the points of the hex it slid right into the rail and looks very clean.

That looks nice and good designing, however, you SHOULD polish it before you drop back in :)

thats awesome. i tried to have mine welded and the guy said that stamped steel like that couldnt be welded and refused to try.

give it a good polish or even better bead blast and powdercoating

It looks like everything else has been paste welded together, i'm kinda worried that polishing or bead blasting would make this thing fragile in the creases. You cant really see the thing tucked under the intake anyhow, i'll probably leave it as is. Function over form :) BTW if anyone wants this done i can replicate it for pretty cheap. The welding isnt much and the fittings are less than 10 bucks so it turned out to be a pretty good deal imo.

Originally posted by MR BLUNT 2gnt
It looks like everything else has been paste welded together, i'm kinda worried that polishing or bead blasting would make this thing fragile in the creases. You cant really see the thing tucked under the intake anyhow, i'll probably leave it as is. Function over form :) BTW if anyone wants this done i can replicate it for pretty cheap. The welding isnt much and the fittings are less than 10 bucks so it turned out to be a pretty good deal imo.

I'm interested, but probably wouldn't need one for a couple months yet. I've got a buddy who can weld, but I'm not sure how comfortable he is welding stamped steel.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1185

When Jamesman did it a few years ago, he just brazed it on with solder. It's still in his car today with no leaks as far as I know.

I have about 58 bucks invested in it. 50 for the welding and 8 for the fittings. I can turn it around in about 2 days typically. I dont need anything for my time, i live right down the road and kick it there a lot anyhow. I wont pay for your shipping but I dont mind passing on the deal to the community. It came out very well I think, and other rails for our car dont line up well or cost a lot more. I'm pretty sure I can get those fitting in -4, 6 or probably 10. That i'd have to check on but at least it gives us another option.

Originally posted by thedawg
When Jamesman did it a few years ago, he just brazed it on with solder. It's still in his car today with no leaks as far as I know.

I actually looked into stealing that idea. I'm just a little wigged out after watching the Showdown 1g burn up in front of me last year. The idea of somethign being brazed on wasnt really all that comforting to me, i feel much better about it being welded in. Personal preference i guess, but after that Showdown fire i'm being extra anal w/ the fuel fittings :)

Originally posted by MR BLUNT 2gnt

Originally posted by thedawg When Jamesman did it a few years ago, he just brazed it on with solder. It's still in his car today with no leaks as far as I know.

I actually looked into stealing that idea. I'm just a little wigged out after watching the Showdown 1g burn up in front of me last year. The idea of somethign being brazed on wasnt really all that comforting to me, i feel much better about it being welded in. Personal preference i guess, but after that Showdown fire i'm being extra anal w/ the fuel fittings :)

This is the second time I've seen you make that statment, guess it really shook you up, huh? Good job on the fuel rail, it looks bitchin'. If it were me I'd just clean it up real good and hit it with (insert favorite color) spray paint and call it good :thumbsup

BTW: I think I will hit you up on the fittings, expect a PM soon :)

I'm sure you know where i'm coming from man, I have over 30+ thousand dollars invested in this car between the mods and the price of the car. For it to catch fire b/c of something simple like fuel fittings would suck a fat one. Do it right or dont do it at all. I'm not saying anything against the brazed fittings, i'm just saying that I feel more comfortable with the way I had mine done.

It looks like you guys chopped off the test port, if so is there any reason why?

I think your talking about the First pic. No, that was the feed. The only ones with the test port on the side (instead of the end of the rail) are the 95's that had the FPR on the end of the rail.

You're right, I forgot that it hangs off the side. I'm just off the ball this whole week aren't I :wallbash

The test port on my rail was on the end cap, i think your referring to the early 95 or 96 rail that has the test port thats not on the end right? The welded up hole on mine is from the stock feed port.

i must have this done to my rail

I used this for braze.

Braze 560

Ag 55 - 57
Cu 21 - 23
Other, total Max 0.15
Sn 4.5 - 5.5
Zn 15 - 19


Material Notes:

Characteristics:Braze 560 is a low temperature, free-flowing brazing filler metal with a slight tendency to liquate (i.e. separate into low and high melting constituents) if heated slowly through its melting range.

Applications:Braze 560 is a silver-based brazing alloy used for ferrous and non-ferrous alloys in joints requiring a low temperature, cadmium-free alloy, as in food handling equipment. For improved corrosion resistance in joints on stainless steel, use alloys containing small amounts of nickel, such as Braze 630 or Braze 505.

Physical Properties Metric English Comments
Density 9.42 g/cc 0.34 lb/in³
Specific Gravity 9.42 g/cc 0.34 lb/in³

Mechanical Properties
Tensile Strength @ Break 172 - 207 MPa 25000 - 30000 psi Copper butt joint
Tensile Strength @ Break 207 - 2760 MPa 30000 - 400000 psi Brass butt joint
Tensile Strength @ Break 276 - 345 MPa 40000 - 50000 psi Low Carbon Steel butt joint

This is the braze alloy I used, please refer to the ultimate tensile strength for the material to address your concerns with bursting of the fuel rail.

Material Selection was carefully thought out, Remember, I am a Mechanical Engineer.


lates
James

LMAO, pwnd. Thanks for the info man, it only shows my lack of knowledge regarding the strength of the process. Two very fast cars have burnt to the ground in front of me, Dan's vr4 Galant (10.2 with Kurt Brown driving) and the Showdown 1g, both from problems stemming from fuel fittings. I'm probably being a little over cautious :)

ya if you see that happen in front of your eyes you'll always double check the fuel system. I say just pressure test your parts with compressed air to determine if they can withstand the pressures I would also do this to all steel braided lines with reusable fittings. Just better to spend an hour testing than spending a week and lots of money trying to fix a burnt engine.

Lates,
James