for those who say they ran steel fuel return lines for their SFMU, where did you get the line, what are the spec's on it?

I read posts that said it only costs around $25...but didnt notice where to get it or any specific details on running a steel line.

im trying to decide which way to go; either with the fuel line for fuel injected cars or steel line

easy on me, new to the turbo section :blahblah

I will likely be posting more questions the closer I get to installing the turbo kit and getting it to run right. Thanks!

get 10 ft. of 4an or 6an ss braided hose . i can sell you 10 ft. of 4an for the return line for 50 shipped with fittings for the hose and sfmu return port .i wouldnt recommend running rubber fuel hose under the car .

whats the difference from running a 4an and 6an? the lower fuel pressures you're able to achieve?

Originally posted by .bs0d
whats the difference from running a 4an and 6an? the lower fuel pressures you're able to achieve?

Precisely. Although I thought I read somewhere that guys where having issues with their fuel pressures running 4AN line? Not sure exactly though.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1185

I ran a combination of 3/8 alum line and 6an braided.

Alum line runs under the car and braided is to run the engine bay.

where did you get the aluminum line, how much did it cost... and whats the internal diameter? did you have a special fitting on the end of the aluminum line to connect it to the 6an steel braided line and up to the pump on the other end?

check out the fittings section at jegs. They have everyting you need including al. fuel line. I wouldn't run anything but hard line under the car. You also need to only sued the same AN fittings their that companys braided fuel hose.

If you want to know what size AN fittins are this is you you do it. 1/16 icnch = 1AN so 1/4 AN = 4/16 or 1/4 and so on.

4AN line will be ok with stock injectors, however you will need 6an (3/8 .375 OD) Fuel line if you ever want to upgrade to 30# injectors. You will have problems lowering the fuel pressure past the upper 20's if you don't.

Originally posted by ryansiefring
You also need to only sued the same AN fittings their that companys braided fuel hose.

Thats not entirely true. As far as braided hose you by the correct Style fitting and you will be fine. I have never had a problem using fitting made by earls with summit brand line ect. Neither has a local speed shop.

Now you need to pay attention to the type of lien you have. Teflon line requires fitting for teflon line. Push lock hose uses push-lock fittings and you guessed it, stainless braided uses twistlock style fittings.

Terry

3/8 alum line is about 25.00 for 25' coil. Find someone to go halves with you. to terminate the line you purchase tube sleeves and tube nuts then flare the line with a double flare tool. then the line will thread onto a 6an union. internal diameter is about 5/16. OD is 3/8.

Terry

im running the 4500cc injectors w/ modified fuel rail & resistor pack, 255 fuel pump, SFMU w/ 2.72 discs i believe & SAFC.

This tubing comes in a coil? Do have to really worry about the line getting pinched or kinked?

I'll check out summitt and see if I can find all the right pieces...

3/8 aluminum line (25' coil)
tube sleeves
tube nuts
double flare tool to flair line
6an union

Originally posted by .bs0d
im running the 4500cc injectors

4500cc injectors? Holy crap dude!! :)


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1185

HAHAHAHA make that 450, sorry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
I ran a combination of 3/8 alum line and 6an braided. Alum line runs under the car and braided is to run the engine bay.

Same here. All aluminum under the car, I would NEVER run rubber under the car. Too many risks of puncture and weathering. Ran the 3/8" hardline up through between the firewall and the sub-frame?? assembly was a bitch and a half. Then SS lines to and from the engine to avoid any damage from vibration and engine movement...





It sucked trying to get them through there without ruining them.

Anyway I used to run a 5/16" steel return line and it worked just fine. It went from the return port on the bottom of the SFMU down and under the car and back to the tank where it used rubber hoses to attach to the stock return port.

I ran steel 5/16 steel brake lines for fuel return. I bought a few 48" sections with some couplers and nuts then rented a double flare tool from Autozone.


Short rubber hose connects the return line to the tank return line nipple.




Splice at the mid body was the last connection made and the easiest to cut to length and flare in the last step.







This is the best I could do with the motor still in the car.


My FPR will be where the windshield washer reservoir used to be.



I'll pretty up these lines when the new motor goes in.

I need to get pictures of my brackets that go under the car, you will really like them Dave. Simple and look so clean and professional. Matter of fact, make me those labels we talked about and i will make you a set.

Similer to DJ and Dave, i ran my alum line to the crossmember but ran the braided between the body and crossmember into the engine bay. To protect chaffing i wrapped the line with heavy shrinkwrap. I didnt want to drop the crossmember and i didnt want the line to rub/scratch anything if i just fished it through the crevis. The other advantage is it makes replacement easy should the alum line get damaged or the braided gets damaged.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
<snip> Matter of fact, make me those labels we talked about and i will make you a set.

I guess you better get a set ready because I mailed those labels out this morning. I did four versions for you in reversed (blackout) and mirrored text versions printed on 1 mil clear film. I also threw in a few extra goodies.

will do then

that looks really good! Simple enough to bend with your hands as you go along?

Yes, its easy to bend. I've found it far easier to bend with your hands than to use a freakin bending tool.

Originally posted by MR BLUNT 2gnt
Yes, its easy to bend. I've found it far easier to bend with your hands than to use a freakin bending tool.

You musn't know how to use the bending tool then :P

Yea man, you can bend it with your hands but not the sharper ones.