Ok so I was working on another eclipse yesturday and we almost got the whole turbo in except for the downpipe and just putting oil back into the car. When we tried to install the downpipe it appears that the O2 sensor bunge was put in the wrost location ever thus hitting the oil pan when we tried to put the pipe. The pipe will not line up with the O2 sensor there, so I was wondering about a couple things to get around this. First one is:

How important in the O2 Bank 1 sensor? The reason I ask that is because I was thinking that we could block it off and just run 1 O2 sensor (Bank 2). I know this will throw a code until I over ride the ecu, and this car will run Rich as it is as well because it is using an FMU not an SFMU. I pretty much know what that it will potentially mess up the engine. I just want to know how long you think till the engine is totally screwed cause we are just going to go get another one made up. Let me know your thoughts on removing the O2 Sensor bank 1.

Assuming you are running on stock engine managment (which you are if it's running an FMU), then you need that O2. The only other O2 is after the cat, and running without a front O2 by overriding it is a terrible decision.

The solution to your problem is to block off the O2 bung where it is (Get a bolt that's the same size and screw it in there with a lock washer. Lock-Tite won't hold up to that temperature continuously).

Get another O2 bung from an autoparts store (I got mine at CarQuest for 10 bucks) or a muffler shop.

Get a hole saw and drill a hole that will accomodate the bung. I can give you the size I got, but I'll have to check since I'm not at home.

Weld the bung in.

Screw the O2 in with some antiseize to prevent rusting and extend the wires if need be.

Done.


Brian

Wow, it sounds like you totally know a lot about cars now.

Just follow your heart and block it off if you want to. At least it's not your car :rolleyes

will the car even run at all with no upstream 02 ? that sensor controls you a/f reading to the ecu .

I am not sure if it will run like it should but I know it will run. I think it will be a bit rough but the second O2 sensor can control the air/fuel ratio but to me that sensor would be working twice as hard. So I think it will burn out eventually and pretty quick at that point. But like mentioned before it isn't my car so I'll put it together any way the guy wants me to... He knows the libility of having only one sensor and still wants to run with it so I not sure if I want to fuck up his car because to me we are suppose to help the stupid people who would normally break shit.

Sigh... Look It was explained to you before. The ECU Relies on that Sensor. Its ONE of the most important readings it needs to keep the engine in tune. With out that It doesnt know if its dumping in too much fuel or not enough. Will its start ? Yes. Will it run? Yes. Will it damage something? Absolutely. Dont half ass this please.

Whats the second O2 there for? Just to check if your cat is there and working . The ECU doesnt even use it to make changes in the fuel trims.Its an Idiot Light type of deal.

exactly the rear 02 has nothing to do with fuel trims . the only thing its there for is to see if the cats working .

There was a drunken discussion at the shootout a few years ago with Bill Hahn and he had some interesting things happen to his fuel trims (running off the stock ECU) on his dyno after dropping the test pipe, the rear oxygen sensor was effectively flapping around in the breeze. He lost a lot of power and the AFR was really rich. We came to the conclusion that a rear oxygen sensor failure (the output is stuck at one value) is treated the same as a front oxygen sensor failure by the stock ECU.

Hmm....
Any discussions on the ATX ecu vs the MTX?

Ive noticed that most of the guys that run test pipes and get by w/o the resistor are the ATX guys ( me included for 40k miles and about 4 yrs). Soon as I dropped in the MTX ecu for the swap, bam light comes one within 5 miles of driving.