Ok,
I have read all over this forum for all the fuel cut posts. I think that I am getting the fuel cut, and I have done everything that everyone keeps saying to do and nothing is working. But maybe it is not a fuel cut...

Here is the problem.

About 3500-4000 rpm the car just dies. It is not really even a fuel cut, or doesn't seem like it, because the car just completely dies, and then won't restart for about 4-5 min.
I have a fuel cut defender with voltage set at ~4.25v which is way below when fuel cut should happen, but I still have this problem

I have tried everything, someone please help!

Originally posted by bzoss
Ok, I have read all over this forum for all the fuel cut posts. I think that I am getting the fuel cut, and I have done everything that everyone keeps saying to do and nothing is working. But maybe it is not a fuel cut... Here is the problem. About 3500-4000 rpm the car just dies. It is not really even a fuel cut, or doesn't seem like it, because the car just completely dies, and then won't restart for about 4-5 min. I have a fuel cut defender with voltage set at ~4.25v which is way below when fuel cut should happen, but I still have this problem I have tried everything, someone please help!

Any CEL's? Get the codes checked. Try resetting your ecu?

i have my voltage set at 4.6 . maybe try that but i dont think fuel cuts ur problem.

ecu...

mine did the same shit last year, damn near replaced everythign under the hood sensor wise, replaced the ecu and never had the issue again

I replaced the ECU already. It was a used one off ebay, so I can't specifically vouch for it's being 100%. However, before I replaced the ECU the car would not even start.

You all sudgest a totally new ecu?

I would really hate to do that concidering they are $800 bucks and all.

Like you said, I don't think it is fuel cut either.

were the hell you buying a ecu from? 800 bux is a stiff price, you can get a ecu form autozone or equivelent for like 300

autozone said they don't carry our ecu
the 800 is the dealer price.

do a search for hall chrysler or fenton. same place I got one for around 150.

OK,

The ECU seems to have worked itself out. The part where it just shuts off went away, but it is still quiting at around 4000rpm. Not dying, just quiting, maybe fuel cut?
Anyhow, it will not hold idle at all really, and when I enter 3-4 psi of boost, the A/F ratio plumits. I don't have any fuel upgrades except 24lb fuel injectors.
I know that everyone is going to say up the fuel system, but I am not really using all that much power, I don't see why the fuel injectors couldn't keep up to that point at least.

Think the ECU might still be getting all skeered?

I retract my previous thread, as it has become quite un-true.
My ECU has died again. This makes 2 ECU's now.

What the heck could be causing the ECU's to go bad? I just don't understand why this has to be so complicated.
Has anyone ever run into this before?

I checked with AutoZone, and they don't stock that computer anymore, nor does the manufacturer provide it anymore.
Does anyone else know of any other options for an ECU?

Where do I search for the chrysler ecu's that you said to search for earlier? On 2gnt, or somewhere else?

I was reading a few really old threads, and came across one where someone had similar simptoms with the car not starting, and dying randomly etc.
Well their problem was their Cam Position Sensor.

I was hoping that was my problem because what an easy fix right?
Well, not so much.
I replaced the CPS and the Crank Angle Sensor, and I am right where I started.

Brand new crank and cam position sensors and the car is still being an ass.

I have not gotten too many helpful responses, so I am starting to assume that I might be the first with this problem. I am close to just dropping this thing off at a local shop and saying have at it, but I would really like to fix it on my own.
Any more ideas? please throw em at me.

thanks

Call 810-714-3300 and ask for parts

called them

they are closed for memorial day.
I don't see why they would be cheeper than my local dealership.
besides, what if I just fry this one too?

I think there is another underlying problem that I should try and pinpoint before I fry an 800 dollar ECU. I have already had two in the thing, and both did the same thing, so maybe I had two bad ecu's, which I doubt, or something is causing them to go bad.

price will be 160+40 core fee. you need to datalog to seewha values are not correct. Are you getting any check engine light? Where are you from. What year is your car?

I am from VA beach, VA

Car is a 98 GS

I was actually on my way to AUTOZONE to get the codes read when the car died... go figure...

I should get on of those $75 OBD II reader things, for times like this, but then again, I hope that I don't need one of those things too much know what I mean?

I will get the ECU from them if it is that much, but I don't see it being less than my dealer...
Did you ask for the 98 ECU price?

thanks for the help, but like I said, there has got to be something causing the ECU's to go bad.

I should add that I have a SFAC-II. Don't know if that is causing the problem, but I ran fine with it for about 1.5 years, so I doubt it. Also I can see the voltage coming from the MAP sensor, as well as the O2 sensor, so I can see them actually working, and to the best I can tell, they are working properly.

I got rid of the FCD (STAR Black box) in my car, replaced it with a missing link; despise any missing link stories you might of heard, Ive NEVER had a problem with mine.

Anyways, the heat of driving from Newark,De to San Antonio Tx in 25 hours killed my first ECU, maybe heat is your problem too?

It does get hot as balls under the hood, but I am sure that others get just as hot.
I could build a little heat shield for it, I just can't see that being the problem, but it could very well be it. That still does not explain the cutting off etc. etc...

The car was barely even warmed up on the initial test drives.

I am taking it to a local speed shop today. I am pretty fed up with the whole process. I am just going to drop it on them and say good luck. And beg them not to hurt my pocket book too much...

I seem to be the only one who has ever had this problem, so if they can figure it out, then I will be sure to let everyone know what it was.

-Brandon

You should figure out what you lose when it shuts off ( Fuel, Fire, Injector pulse) Then that would point you in the right direction.

I lose iginition
the tachometer

I believe I still have fuel, about 99% sure anyhow

just no iginition signal


I dropped the car off at a local shop today to figure it out because I am fed up.

I think that the CPS might be bad, and when I replaced it with a autozone one, it was probably still bad. Lets hope anyway...

In any case, they should tell me something tomorrow I hope. I figure that the car won't fire in the CPS or CAS are not working or talking to one another, so maybe I just used bad replacement parts...

Who knows, if it only cost me $100 for them to tell me that, and that is the real problem, then I guess it is worth it, cause I am sick of this, and I want to drive the thing. The anticipation is killing me!

Ok, so I drop my ride off at a local shop, who I should say specializes in DSM's. Well, they tell me that all this headache was over my coil pack.... I was relieved to see that it was so easy, and when I thought about it, it all made sense...

Unfortunately, I replaced the coil pack, and I get the same symptoms.

What the heck is going on??!!!?!???!!!!

I have unwired the crane ignition, same thing...
I have replaced all the sensors I have...
I have fuel, just no spark...

What the heck is it??

Here is my last theory, which may be possible. I don't know exactly how the computer thinks, but this is what I am coming up with, even though this is a stretch...
This problem usually happens when the car starts going lean due to boost.
Well I think that the ECM is getting upset at the repeated lean conditions, and is simply shutting down... So, I figure I upgrade the rest of the fuel system, keep it rich, figure out a way to get the ECM to reset and the car run again... And no, just reseting the ECM doesn't seem to be enough to get it to run again, it seems like something else eventually has to reset, but not sure what it is if there is really anything.
Anyhow, maybe that could be the problem. I am getting a 8:1 FMU, and 190lph fuel pump. That should be plenty, hopefully it makes my car happy because I am simply entirely too frustrated over this for it to last much longer.

PPLLEAASEE HELP!

You replaced your coil-pack correct? Are you sure that it couldn't have to do with your spark plug wires or the plugs themselves? When is the last time you at least checked those? It could also just be a fuel pump problem if you are also having little hiccups in your idle like I thought I read that you were. Just making some suggestions, hope all goes well for you.