i think it came out really good so i got carried away with pics .lol what do u guys think ?

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very nice man.. keep up the good work.
ur car is like my favourite one on this forumn :)

Originally posted by chronicshit
very nice man.. keep up the good work. ur car is like my favourite one on this forumn :)

thanx bro

That looks pretty good man. I want that wbo2 real bad.

But your auto so..... :P

Cool. Gotta love the Zeitronix. I love mine. But... were you drunk when you cut out that openeing in the CF panel? lol.

Originally posted by djtrickee
Cool. Gotta love the Zeitronix. I love mine. But... were you drunk when you cut out that openeing in the CF panel? lol.

nah man but i was stoned . how do u think i came up with the idea .lol

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst

Originally posted by djtrickee Cool. Gotta love the Zeitronix. I love mine. But... were you drunk when you cut out that openeing in the CF panel? lol.

nah man but i was stoned . how do u think i came up with the idea .lol

Hahaha. Nice setup you got there, looks great. I need to invest in a Zeitronix soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1185

I love mine, have installed in the cougar.

how readable is that display? I heard someone say that the numbers change too quickly for it to be really useful for boost and EGT, but I dunno.
if I just got that, it would save a lot of gauges on my A-pillar.

Fuck. That looks really nice. One of these days, I'll have to actually put the sensor in the pipe and connect it to the box. I might install mine the same way you did, but I've been debating whether or not to remove the radio from the car completely. Hmmm... Perhaps I could something like yours, and just lay a piece of tinted lexan across it so you couldn't see it when it was off...

EDIT:
Yes. I am lazy.
Yes. I am jealous.

thanx for the comments . i use the laptop for reading mainly . although the numbers on the lcd are readable most of the time . the lcd is more for show tho . i only got it cuz i paid 250 for everything brand new . im goin to hook up my egt probe too but the pins that comewith it are too small to crimp on the the wires .

Very nice, I'll proly end up installing mine that I bought last summer in the same place when I get some motivation. (It's been raining here non stop for like 2 weeks now) I'm curious to know what the switch operates... yea I'm nosy :+
I got like a billion switches of my own I dunno where to put. LOL

that switch is to turn the a/c fan on . i rarely ever use it tho . and the blue switch under it is overdrive

Looks very good man! VERY GOOD!

i did some logging today . after i let off the throttle my a/f spikes to 21.0 from 2500-1500 on every pull . why would it be doing this . also with partial throttle up to around 4000 rpm it is lean fom 13.0 up to 15.0 at some points .but at wot and anything 4500 up it reads from 11.8 to 12.8 . any ideas on these problems ? im running 30lb injectors and sfmu . hard dark spring with largest disk and bleed valve all the way open .if anything i would be thinkin it was rich but its not .

you took all those pics of the display, but where did you put the sensor?

the sensor is 3" away from the stock sensor at the bend on the downpipe

@ WOT, i always try to tune for around 11.4 a/f

thanx what do u tune for cruising in boost . also why is it spiking to 21.0 after i let of the gas completly . i let off the gas rpms start dropping and when it get down to 2500 it spikes to 21.0 everytime and stops spiking when is drops down to 1500rpm

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst
thanx what do u tune for cruising in boost . also why is it spiking to 21.0 after i let of the gas completly . i let off the gas rpms start dropping and when it get down to 2500 it spikes to 21.0 everytime and stops spiking when is drops down to 1500rpm

When you let off the gas while still in gear(engine braking), the ECU cuts all fuel flow from the injectors by switching them off. This conserves fuel while declerating. When you have slowed down enough, the injectors kick back on as usual. This is why your wideband is reading super lean...its all o2.

At part throttle boost you may see it be lean, or close to stoich(14.7:1), because the ECU is staying in closed loop, trying to adjust the A/F to 14.7:1. I never really had any problems with the A/F like that in low, part throttle boost,but i wouldnt run more than 5-7 psi like that. Just floor it if you want more boost. The TPS sensor will see full throttle, and the ECU goes into open loop, not correcting the fuel mixture anymore. The ECU roughly goes into open loop mode at 75% or more throttle position. This issues is exactly why i love the Megasquirt..full control of open/closed loop, A/F, timing, ect..

thank you . that info really helped a lot . today i got the a/f at wot to 11.8 .a little more tuning aand ill have it down to 11.5 . my egt are great now . it stays at 1450 for as long as i push it . i love wideband o2's .

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst
thank you . that info really helped a lot . today i got the a/f at wot to 11.8 .a little more tuning aand ill have it down to 11.5 . my egt are great now . it stays at 1450 for as long as i push it . i love wideband o2's .

If you are not getting any knock, and your EGT's are only 1450, then leave it at 11.8:1 No need to richen it up...I usually tune to 1525-1550 EGT. This is ofcourse with the proper amount of timing in it, which you cant really control with the stock ECU..I found for the S16G at 10 psi, i run 12.5:1 A/f and 22 degrees of timing, and it loves it. Higher boost needs a bit more fuel.

Originally posted by XtremeRS

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst thank you . that info really helped a lot . today i got the a/f at wot to 11.8 .a little more tuning aand ill have it down to 11.5 . my egt are great now . it stays at 1450 for as long as i push it . i love wideband o2's .

If you are not getting any knock, and your EGT's are only 1450, then leave it at 11.8:1 No need to richen it up...I usually tune to 1525-1550 EGT. This is ofcourse with the proper amount of timing in it, which you cant really control with the stock ECU..I found for the S16G at 10 psi, i run 12.5:1 A/f and 22 degrees of timing, and it loves it. Higher boost needs a bit more fuel.

nope no knock or anything . right nows the best the car has ran since i turboed it so ill leave it at 11.8:1 . so the only way to ajust spark timing is msns ? what about the msd dis-2 ? ill definitly run a msns by the end of the year after i build the motor . so far its been 2 years boosted without any major problems . when i get the money to build it im gonna see how much the stock motor can really take . lol

Very nice I like where you mounted it. I put mine in front of my gauge cluster so I could read it when I checked my speed/rpms. I like the peak/hold function too.

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst
also with partial throttle up to around 4000 rpm it is lean fom 13.0 up to 15.0 at some points .but at wot and anything 4500 up it reads from 11.8 to 12.8 . any ideas on these problems ?

That's your stock ECU screwing with you. Once you get a wideband and you are able to see how horrible the AFR is with the stock ECU, it's extremely difficult to tune it out with an AFC or with fuel pressure... a wideband is the first in the slippery slope to a standalone at which point your car can finally be tuned well.

yup the stock ecu sucks . i keep throwing the system too rich bank 1 code but according to the wide band im not running that rich .any ideas y it would be coming up with that code every once in a while . iv been reading up on megasquirt for the last couple weeks . its very hard to understand but ill learn.

The reason you see the correct values when you are crusing is because you are in closed loop where the O2 sensor is feeding bcak to the PCM and then based upon the O2 readings the PCM injects a certian ammount of fuel. The rich code that you are getting is because in the PCM software there is monitor that looks at the pulse-widths of the injectors. There is a base map of these pulse-withs built into the PCM and then the PCM adjusts these values based upon operating conditions that call for more or less fuel. This adjustment is of course limited to a certian ammount each way (rich and lean). This is called adaptive memory. There is a long term and short term fuel trim. So say you reset the PCM the base values are used for fuel injection. Then when you drive the PCM sees that at x RPM and x pressure (or whatever values the pcm uses to base the adjustments on) there needs to be either more or less fuel injected. So then the PCM remembers this and stores the adjustment values in the RAM of the PCM. So the next time your engine is at the same condition the correct ammount of fuel will be injected. So what is happening to you is that you are injecting too much fuel according to the PCM and then it adjustes it lean until it cannot adjust anymore and then it sets a code.

So i really think that the stock ECM is quite awesome that is why i prefer using stock fuel injectors and then adding some secodaries for boost this way you get to keep all of the neat features of the PCM and get good reliability and driveability.

Heres another way of explaning it according to one of my books:

Adaptive memory allows the computer to adjust its memory for computing open-loop operation. Once the system is operating in closed loop, the computer compares its open-loop calculated air-fuel ratios against the average limit cycle values in closed loop. If there is a substantial difference, the computer updates, its data and corrects its memory.


So how do you find out what your fuel trims are? Use your laptop and get a scan tool that you can hook it up to your laptop and datalog your fuel trim values and then you can see if you need to richen or lean up a certian point. Now don't worry about these values in boost.

Mabye you are wondering why there is a long and short term fuel trim now well here goes. The short term i used for quick corrections such as a change in barometric pressure, hudimity ect, since all of those factors affect the engince volumemetric efficiency. The long term job is to monitor the short term values. If the short term is always at a high or low values it will then compensate in the long term and set the short trim back to its original/zero setting.

So this i just a breif overview of some things and it may not be 100 percent correct so anyone feel free to correct me as i am writing this and watching family guy so my attention to detail is limited.
Hope this helps and enjoy the wideband (i also have a zeitronix and i love it)