what else would i need if i ordred the star stage 1 kit.
such as parts gauges etc.



95 GS
AEM Cold Air Intake
Max Speed Coilovers
J-Speed Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors
Generation 3 Altezas

In the mail: Blitz front end, Fiber Images Carbon Fiber Hood

I'd say
1) Boost Gauge
2) VC1
3) Turbo Timer
4) BOV (welded to the pipe)

ALvin



Star stage I
Starion I/C
GReddy BOV
Nology Wires
APEXI EL Boost Gauge
Autometer A/F gauge
Dual gauge pod
Southland Dual Friction Clutch
B&M Short Shifter/ Shifter Bushings
17" Axis Wheelsite Mesh - 235/40
Camberkits
Eibach Sportlines on KYB AGXs
Strut Bars/ GST Rear Sway Bar
X-Drills w/ Axxis pads
Andy's Front Bumper
Stock Skirts
Cleared Headlights

whats a vc1
and they don't come with a bov

95 GS
AEM Cold Air Intake
Max Speed Coilovers
J-Speed Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors
Generation 3 Altezas

In the mail: Blitz front end, Fiber Images Carbon Fiber Hood

You don't need a turbo timer. It is just there for convenience.

-Jeff
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T'd and HRC'd

http://gs.dsmpower.com

Order boost gauge, EGT gauge, air/fuel gauge and since you have to tap into the oil pan id recommend a oil pressure. Since your down there id just put it on. The kit should come with everything else that is NEEDED to operate. The gauges are for making sure its operating correctly. You might even go as far as getting an electric fuel pressure gauge to mount in your cockpit.

>whats a vc1

A voltage clamp to the MAP. prevents it from seeing boost. It comes with a mechanical check valve but the electronic VC1 is about $80.

>and they don't come with a
>bov
No boost gauge and BOV is optional on stage 1. Stage 2 comes with both. The HKS BOV is a $70 or 80 option.




http://stan2gnt.homestead.com/home.html
Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

I say screw the EGT, the oil the fuel, A/F ALL you really needd is BOOST to see how much you're pushin. Those gauges are just really for show - if you're gonna blow you are going to blow. It's not like you'll see your EGT reach at a certain temp and be like "Oh, shit gotta let off" Or even look at the A/F gauge and say "Wow that light means too lean" If you're gonna blow - blow at 20lbs. The only true purpose of gauges is TUNING. I hate to tune cuz it's usually spent on an expensive dyno.

ALvin



Star stage I
Starion I/C
GReddy BOV
Nology Wires
APEXI EL Boost Gauge
Autometer A/F gauge
Dual gauge pod
Southland Dual Friction Clutch
B&M Short Shifter/ Shifter Bushings
17" Axis Wheelsite Mesh - 235/40
Camberkits
Eibach Sportlines on KYB AGXs
Strut Bars/ GST Rear Sway Bar
X-Drills w/ Axxis pads
Andy's Front Bumper
Stock Skirts
Cleared Headlights

so would i need a vc1?


95 GS
AEM Cold Air Intake
Max Speed Coilovers
J-Speed Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors
Generation 3 Altezas

In the mail: Blitz front end, Fiber Images Carbon Fiber Hood

LAST EDITED ON 15-Nov-01 AT 11:17 PM (PST)

Well semper...you blow your shit and ill moniter my gauges to make sure I dont blow mine. and if your doing that anyways..not caring then why do you need a boost gauge??? who cares what boost your at, just as long as you blow it up right?? LOL most ridiculous advice ive ever heard..."JUST BLOW IT" By the way, I was wondering why you have an A/F gauge if its stupid and not needed??

I dont know about that one. A/F is useless in that sense but many a top speed run came to a halt because of EGTs. You likely wont get into any trouble with a stage 1 but I keep my eyes glued to it anytime I'm at WOT (probably whuy I bump the rev limiter a few times too many) and do/would let off immediately at anything over 1600. If something is off/not working properly (like FMU malfunctioning, fuel pump going bad ect) you could be on the verge of blowing up with every run and never know it until its too late.


http://stan2gnt.homestead.com/home.html
Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

Eventually all turbo engines will blow..some way or another it's your right foot that's gonna determine how long. Go and spend $$$ on gauges and watch your engine - chances are your engine ain't gonna go down it one KABOOM!..it'll be slow and painful. I don't have anyting againest engine monitoring devices - they are great if you have the $$ and time to tune but unless you are serious (internals) then you need em. To boost high on stock internals is just asking for it, 15psi a day is asking for it - your best boost controller if self control. I bought the A/F to go with my S-AFC but found that the A/F is useless, just flashy and I'm selling my s-afc. Getting a boost gauge will tell you alot about your engine ex: leaks, peak boost - hold boost, idle vac. I'v had my turbo for past a year and my best advice to give to anyone with NOS, Turbo, All-Motor is not to abuse your car cuz it'll bite you in the ass like others have found out. Anyhow Optimus...I'd just say a boost gauge, BOV, maybe some wires and maybe a VC1 cuz some folks have made it work with check valves. You really need the BOV tho - I had the stage 1 w/o and you'll get an owl stuck in your compressor. You will get a howl (compressor surge) everytime you let off. PLus it's just damn fun letting everyone hear it go off!

ALvin


Star stage I
Starion I/C
GReddy BOV
Nology Wires
APEXI EL Boost Gauge
Autometer A/F gauge
Dual gauge pod
Southland Dual Friction Clutch
B&M Short Shifter/ Shifter Bushings
17" Axis Wheelsite Mesh - 235/40
Camberkits
Eibach Sportlines on KYB AGXs
Strut Bars/ GST Rear Sway Bar
X-Drills w/ Axxis pads
Andy's Front Bumper
Stock Skirts
Cleared Headlights

Not sure you will need a vc1 since you have a 95. I think only 96+ need them.

Right, only 96 and higher require the VC1.