How do I go custom stage 2 with a hahn kit? If i buy an intercooler and get the piping done how to I go about adjusting the wastegate? Do I have to buy another wastegate from hahn. Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

You can get a boost controller to take care of the boost, and the intercooler.. you buy a core, and then a bunch of mandrel bends and silicone couplers and do it yourself, or find a local shop that will do it for you better by welding it all together and taking care off all that tedious measure twice, cut once stuff.

I have a slightly modified 1G SMIC that you can have for the price of shipping. I never ended up using it and it's just taking up closet space. Unfortunately it's at home and I'm not going back til next weekend so I couldn't give you any pics til then. Anywho, let me know if you want it...

I'll let you know. And about the wastegate I though it could only be set to 5psi on the stage 1 and that was it? Can someone explain the workings of hahns stage 1 a little bit to me

Originally posted by EclipseTenzoR
I'll let you know. And about the wastegate I though it could only be set to 5psi on the stage 1 and that was it? Can someone explain the workings of hahns stage 1 a little bit to me

Its "stage 1" because basically, you have no intercooler and the boost is limited to 5psi since that is the cutoff point for when the intercooler is not grreatly needed. Now the wastegate, that you have (and so did I since I started as a stage 1) is set at 5psi. When you get a boost controller, it holds the boost to a predetermined psi point (ie 10psi) and when that point is reached, it allows the pressure to go to the wastegate and the boost gets cutoff and you don't blow your engine due to lack of fuel or what have you. When the boost pressure hits the wastegate, then it closes tra-di-lah.

So do you have an entirely new wastegate that is limited to 10psi? And then you adjust your boost controller to actually cut that psi down to about 8 or so?

What do you boost at?

And how does this adjust if I had a manual boost controller. I don't understand how it works when the mbc goes inline with the wastegate.

wow, i thought i was the only stage 1 around these days.

Originally posted by 96rs-t
wow, i thought i was the only stage 1 around these days.

how many more miles until you are good for stage 3?

I'm only at 350 miles right now. Still got a little over 1k to go. Hopefully i have my fmic or smic by then. I might just buy a fmic from hahn if i don't find a decent one.

No you keep your 5psi waste gate. You add the boostcontroller to increase the boost you're making.

Edit: this is your shoppint for going stage 2 ie more boost without a built engine

boost controller
intercooler and piping (duh)
larger injectors (optional-I personally would upgrade, some have gotten away with it)

Here's a general synopsis of how a boost controller works, since it'll help you understand why you don't need a seperate wastegate.

As you know, a wastegate opens at a predetermined boost level (usually set by some sort of spring/diaphram contraption). When it opens, it lets exhaust past through it instead of through the turbo, limiting the RPM's of the turbo, thus limiting the boost it makes.

For this discussion, we'll focus on manual boost controllers, since electronic ones work a bit differently.

There are two types of manual boost controller, ball and spring and bleeder types. With ball-and-spring types, a spring-loaded ball is used to block this delivered boost "signal", until the desired boost level is attained. It is at this point, that the delivered boost pressure is strong enough to push the spring-loaded ball toward the spring and out of it's seat, allowing the signal to pass, and reach the Wastegate Actuator. The MBC is adjusted by turning a knob (or other adjustor), which varies the load on the spring inside the MBC. By adjusting it so there is more load on the spring, you are 'raising the boost" because more boost pressure is required to move the ball off its seat before the signal can pass to the Wastegate Actuator. By contrast, lessening the load on the spring allows the boost signal to more easily unseat the ball and continue on its voyage to the Wastegate Actuator, so by backing the adjustor away from the spring, you are "lowering the boost"

With bleeder types, a valve simply "bleeds" off some of the boost pressure that it receives. It always allows some boost pressure to reach the Wastegate Actuator, but the boost pressure that the Wastegate Actuator receives is always less than the level of boost pressure in the charged portion of the intake system (or the boost level delivered to the bleeder-type valve) because this kind of MBC basically is a controllable boost leak. Since the Wastegate Actuator does not receive the "full boost signal", it only opens the Wastegate when the amount of boost that gets past the "leak" is sufficient to force it open. The bleeder-type MBC is adjusted by changing the size of the leak. Closing the leak down lowers boost level, because more of the boost signal then reaches the Wastegate Actuator, opening the Wastegate sooner. Opening the leak wider raises the boost level, as more boost is released to the atmosphere, as opposed to being delivered to the Wastegate Actuator as a boost signal; so the opening of the Wastegate is delayed.

Hope this helps,
Brian

I think iv'e got the idea of how it works now.

i just took the easy way out and got the 10psi actuator from hahn and switched them out 1,2,3 but if you plan on upping the boost more in the future i agree a boost controler is the way to go just watch your boost and dont get carried away because 8 soon becomes 10 than youll be looking for 12 than 15 and before you know it pop rebuild time. oh and i used the stock hahn stage 2 intercooler pipes from hahn for the 420a and modified a 2g smic to work with the piping, was cheaper than the 349 hahn wanted for there monster smic but i hear now they no longer sell it? guess ill be getting a fmic soon as i am leaning towards going over the 10psi mark, need to do some more fuel mods first though but good luck with your stage 2.
joe

How much modification did you have to make to the piping?

Not much at all, i cut either the inlet or the outlet (not sure which one it was but i can check) shorter and flipped the intercooler around and everything mounted right up pretty good. the intercooler doesnt sit exactly straight up and down it kinda has a slight lean upwards but works fine none the less. sorry if this doeant make any sence but ill try to explain better with it all mounted if you were to go to the front of the car and look through the front mask through the hole you can see the intercooler and it is leaning upward as in the lower section of the intercooler is closer to the front of the car than the upper section get the picture? also i used hahns cuplers and 90 elbows as well. everything holds good and tight and i have no leaks. i have the 10lb actuator and have actually seen everybit of that a few times. im still running stock injectors though and a regular fmu.oh i forgot to mention also that i had to cut the mounting brackets off the intercooler as well in order to make it fit right. i think i paid $10 bucks for the intercooler off ebay and like 200 for the piping through hahn. all you need is the upper and lower section. i think 99 dollar each? oh and you will need to get your bov flange welded on, it comes with a 1inch by 1inch knuckle thats all. hope this helps you out, i can send you some pics if you would like
joe

Yes, pics would actually help me out with this project soon to come.