ok, so ive been talking to shawn at CI and have pretty much figured out what im gonna get. before i start listing parts, my goal is to run 18psi daily and about 22-23 at the track, and more than lilkely im going to tune with the ms.
alright, so for the bottom end im going to go with their stage 3 rebuild kit: Wiseco Pistons (8.6:1, .20 over), Eagle Rods, Melling Oil Pump, Rods & Main Bearings, New Water Pump, Reman Crank, ARP Main & Head Studs.

for intake and fuel, im goin with their stage 2 kit: OBX Polished Racing Intake Manifold, 60mm jeep TB, OBX High Flow Fuel Rail, Accell 36lb Fuel Injectors (625cc, Egr Block Off Plate Kit, aeromotive 1:1 FPR and a walbro 255.

drivetrain im getting specs stage 3 clutch and the phantom lsd

the head im going with: Stage 3 Port Work, PEP 1mm Oversized Valves,5 Angle Valve Job, Crane valve springs with titanium retainers, the drag cams for higher duration with boost, ARP Cam Tower Studs, New Valve Seals, 100% Hot Tanked, Fully Pressure Checked, Fully Decked Head Surface

then for boost im doing a custom tubular manifold with a new evoIII 16g, evo o2 housing, custom 3" downpipe, test pipe, JRC 6" intercooler (25x5.875X2.75), 2.5 piping all the way, custom IC spray, ss oil feed/return, hks ssqv bov, then boost, digital a/f, egt gauges.

please let me know what you guys think, and if you think id be better off doing something differently. any input is appreciated. thanks in advance.

-chris

looks all good but the 36lb injectors are too small you need at least 440s

No need for OBX fuel rail. Stock ones are just fine. Also how are you gonna tune your set-up.

he said aeromotive 1:1 and ms

Okay, couple of things.
1. Listen to the guys about the fuel rail and OBX manifold. Save the money for something else.
2. Spec stage 3 clutch? Read the post about the problems people have had. I understand that might have changed the design, but I'd wait until those are proven until I get one.
3. Why the reman crank?
4. 36lb injectors are only 378cc/min not 625
5. Check the cams carefully. I'm not as concerned about the lift/duration, I'm concerned about overlap. On a boosted setup, you want to keep this to a minimum.
6. What about the PT cruiser valvetrain? Lifters...etc.
7. I don't know how much the I/C spray will help. Look into water/alcohol injection
8. Definately get/borrow a wideband O2. You don't mention if your plans are for a wb or a narrow.

Hope this helps. I'm tired, so I'm gonna stop now.

Brian

All i have to say is you better make sure you order all of this stuff 6-8 months before you think you will need it. CI doesnt have a very good track record with most members on this site especially dealing with shipping. Theres also questionable debates reguarding the integraty of there products and service. All id say is do your homework before going thousands in debt and waiting months and months and months on back ordered items and shipments that never went out. Also i am basing all of this on what ive read from this site, i personally delt with sean and concept twice and although the shipping was slow the product was great. I guess im one of the lucky ones.
just my .02
joe

if you really want a good aftermarket fuel rail get this one

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/eclipserail.html

it is a direct bolt in -6 rail
it fit perfectly and does not leak
unlike the obx

also you dont need the manifold
have the stock one ported and powdercoated

flows just fine

throttle body, save yourself some headache and get the 60mm from modern performance

water/alcohol injectin is awesome
check out
www.coolingmist.com
i did a write up on the install posted on dsmtuners.com when i put on my kit

for widebands i recommend the zeitronix with boost sensor

it lets you read boost/rpm/tps/egt/and afr

ok sorry,

everything listed is part of a kit in some way or another, so thats why theres the fuel rail and manifold (i didnt think the mani was a waste of money though, should i just p&p the stock one?)

shawn said something about the clutch having problems too, but was going to check with spec and see what was up and if it was fixed.

the crank, again, was part of a kit, i figured if everything else is new, why not. but then again, if its a waste of money, ill pass

i meant 625cc, i was cutting and pasting from an email, sorry for the error.

cams im kinda pissed about because the turbo grind isnt all that impressive, but i understand about the overlap. my frind had a tsi that had hks 272s in it and he suggested something big like that. but, i was looking at crowers website and they can do custom grinds for $472 per pair (http://www.crower.com/cat/import/mitsu/camshafts.shtml).

tell me more about the pt valve train

ic spray im not expecting big results from, my friend had a vw rabbit and before he got rid of it he grabbed the reservoirs and said it could make for a little project.

wideband i can get my hands on. the digital a/f is narrow, and i have a friend who has the defi a/f which is a needle and takes the average from the sweep and i guess just stays put. but ya, i can use a wideband.

thanks for the help/input.

-chris

I have no personal experience but i could have sworn i read somewhere to stay away from wiseco pistons..... for some reason that is stuck in my head, can anyone confirm issues with these?

I always had the impression to stick with JE, especially if its an option?

Wisecos are fine pistons.

The spray thing is a good idea in theory, but water/alcohol injection is where it's at.

I wouldn't buy the reman crank. No need.

Yes, PnP the intake, although there's some debate over polishing having adverse effects on the "tumble" effect of the incoming air...

Seach for PT cruiser valvetrain. Lots of info on the site. Allows for higher RPM's

Everything else has been said already.

You're welcome.

Brian

Wiseco's are fine piston's, except I think they have been a problem with the 420a. I remember an arguement against these a while ago. JE's track record is great, I've got them, and so far no problems.

EDIT: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=80737&mode=full

Je's are better imo.

No need for the crank/obx rail/intake mani.

get MS and PT valvetrain parts.


DO NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT buy a spec stg 3 clutch no matter what unless you like pulling the tranny in 5k. gET A SOUTH BEND OR KEEP SEARCHING.

Other than that....

Sweet.

If I had my choice (and I will), I'm gonna get JE's. I think a lot of the arguement of the post that ^^ made was over the design of the piston, not necessarily the strength, and in the end, it probably wasn't the only factor that contributed to Brian's destruction.

If I had to choose I'd go with JE, but I know many people running Wiseco's and they're pushing serious numbers. Granted though, those are mainly on 2.2 and 2.5 turbododge motors. Maybe the design is different for them? :shrug


Brian