I have a 2gnt. I have been spraying the car for over a year. The other night I was racing a 05 srt-4 and sprayed in first and bam. Flames came out the side and the car turned off. I popped the hood and the intake filter completely blew up and I could only find pieces over the road. Vaccuum lines were all popped off. I pluged the ones i could see back in and attempted to start the car. It started but wouldnt idle. On the backside in the middle of the intake manifold there is a thing that has 3 vaccuum lines running off it. The middle one was dissconnected and i plugged that up with a screw/ rubber hosing. the car idled but now my check engine light was on. Now the car will not go past 4300 rpms. I think its in some sort of limp mode. I got the code checked and it said it was the MAP sensor high voltage. I stopped at the mitsubishi dealship and they said that there are 2 vaccuum lines going to the MAP sensor and it is located on the firewall.

The car runs fine though so i know nothing internal is messed up. It just hits fuel cut.

By any chance does anyone know where the MAP sensor is and if the vaccuum line that i mentioned above goes to it.

Also if you think of anything else that would help me out please let me know. I need the car running agian. I lost 100$ to the SRT! I need to get a rematch.

Thanks for any help in advance!

Passenger side of the intake manifold, 3-wire harness connected to it. You probably need a new one, a nitrous backfire will sure as shit kill one.

Originally posted by DarkOne
Passenger side of the intake manifold, 3-wire harness connected to it. You probably need a new one, a nitrous backfire will sure as shit kill one.

I had one do the same thing but i just put all the vac lines back on and she ran fine, i guess i'm luckey. Also you might want to make sure your nozzle didnt spin sideways in the intake pipe.

Does anyone know/can anyone look where the vaccuum line goes from the middle of the manifold.

Its the middle one of the three. You can see the rubber hose/bolt there


Is this the MAP sensor to the right?

Originally posted by Richard97rs
Does anyone know/can anyone look where the vaccuum line goes from the middle of the manifold. Its the middle one of the three. You can see the rubber hose/bolt there Is this the MAP sensor to the right?

Do you have cruise control? I know mine was capped off because i dont have cruise control.

Do you have cruise control? I know mine was capped off because i dont have cruise control.


No cruise control. I have no options on my car. No ps or ac i took them out. Power nothing acutally

Originally posted by Richard97rs
I lost 100$ to the SRT!

Wow. Like bummer dude.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by Richard97rs I lost 100$ to the SRT!

Wow. Like bummer dude.

You win some you lose some. the worst part was that i was winning when i blew up so i saw victory and then lost. i will get him back though.

yes the sensor in the right of that picture is the map sensor. And as far as that vacuum line goes, i know the brake booster gets a big vacuum line, but that might be from a difference source on the mani, i dont really remember

the cruise control vacuum box goes into that triple tree
the brake vacuum goes into a large nipple (he he)
beside the egr pipe
one of the other two on the triple tree are for the evap canister

the other i believe goes to the egr solenoid

thanks. So i probably need to replace the MAP sensor since thats what came up on the diagnostics check.

A bad MAP sensor would cause the fuel cut issue?

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=71941&mesg_id=71941&page=

memories...

Originally posted by coppereclipse95
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=71941&mesg_id=71941&page= memories...

wow almost the same thing happened to me. Do you remember if any vaccuum lines popped off or anything?

Did you ever get to the track with that setup?

So.. now that intake backfire is the culprit, how can we fix it? My car has also been bucking a little. Richard, can you take a pic of where your nozzle is located on the intake?


I had my stock intake hooked up and it worked great. When I put my CAI on, it bucks a little here and there. Move the nozzle closer to the TB?

Please dont make fun of my engine bay or w/e. Its dirty and i have been working on it alot so it looks like shit. The fogger has been in that spot for over a year with no problems at all.

i also got a new map sensor that i am going to pick up tomorrow.

Originally posted by Richard97rs

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by Richard97rs I lost 100$ to the SRT!

Wow. Like bummer dude.

You win some you lose some. the worst part was that i was winning when i blew up so i saw victory and then lost. i will get him back though.

Lol... I forget not everyone around here is t eh elite.

Lol... I forget not everyone around here is t eh elite.


If your not going to help why post?

I have my fogger nozzle way up in the elbow so that it shoots stright into the TB and its bogging a little. I wonder if I need to move it back some.



old pic.

Originally posted by Richard97rs
If your not going to help why post?

Because I can.

Well I got a new MAP sensor and the car runs fine now. But i went to spray agian and it was bogging. I made the nozzle closer and it still bogs. The only thing i can think of is that i have a bigger fuel jet. The bottle pressure was at 900.

This might be a dumb question but if i accidently switched up the nitrous jet into the fuel side of the fogger would that make a difference. Also would it even fit in the hole?

what size jets are you using? take it out and check it.

running the 75 shot? test it 50 a 50 shot and see if it still bogs.

you could also check solenoids to see if they are working right. It would bog if the n2o solenloid stopped working.

no its like an 85 shot or so. I will check the #'s on the jets. The bigger # jet is the nitrous right?

Originally posted by Richard97rs
I will check the #'s on the jets. The bigger # jet is the nitrous right?

Fuel. Also, check that your solinoids are both working.

the solenoids are working. I checked them both. So the fuel is bigger? that might be my problem.

I feel the nitrous kick in at first and it pulls for a second then bogs so there is nitrous coming out.

Think about it... 900+psig of nitrous, and a matching amount of fuel at 50psig. Which hole needs to be bigger? ;-)

thats what i thought but the person above me said fuel needs to be bigger.

In any case, I found a manifold/14b turbo for a good price (150$) so i think im gonna hop on that. I already have an intercooler, BOV, SAFCII, and i think i have a map clamp. I have to find it.

thats cool are you gonna scrap the spray?

yeah, let us know if that fixes it. nitrous is the bigger jet.

Well My jets were wrong. The fuel was bigger i guess. I went back down to a 75 shot (36-n2o 24-fuel i think) and it works fine. Thanks for all the help everyone who did!

Originally posted by wickedtalon
yeah, let us know if that fixes it. nitrous is the bigger jet.

Really. learn something every day. I figured fuel would be bigger.

Well in addition to that, if i recall your bottle pressure needs to be 900+ psi. Or is it 800+, i cant remember, my nitrous sprays can be counted on one hand. Do you have a bottle warmer? That will help you in lower temps to maintain psi in the bottle.

You were right...900 +

Hey richard....your nozzle is way to far away from the elbow ....just like wickedtalon talon mentioned.

There is way to much intake tube there for the nozzle to work right or as it should, you are losing so much potential.

That and running the risk of leaning out, as the fuel is heavier it has the chance of dampening the intake tube rather then staying atomized with the n2o and going right to the intake mani itself. It will also soak that elbow as it tries to round the corner which may of been a direct result of your intake backfire. The reason I say that is...it may not of happened before..but as carbon dirt ect builds up in the cai...it gives something for the fuel to cling to.

It should be no more then 6 inches away from the TB to get maximum pontial and that is for a wet kit only.

And though the odds are slim...you have that nice little vent tube
to the valve cover that you run the risk of n20/raw fuel getting in.

Use this to help with your jet sizes....one of the easiest calculators out there for getting the shot combo you want.
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
I have ran just about every n2o kit out there. :P

Thanks man. I did move it up closer to the TB and it works pretty good now. I might move it closer since i might be losing potential. I have a bottle heater and a guage. I like the pressure around 1050psi but 900psi works fine too.

update: i got a new map sensor and new plugs. The MAP sensor is still reading high voltage according to my check engine light that is on. What else could cause the MAP sensor to not get a good reading besides it being bad itself?

Give it a little while, and the CEL will go away.

its been one or two weeks. You think it will take longer. If i reset the ecu and it still comes back what do you think is wrong?

no one knows?