I recently put together my own oil return line kit and was very happy with how it turned out. If anyone is interested, here are the parts I bought and the part numbers from Summitracing.com.
1 -10an 60 degree hose end. Part# 220083
1 -10an single straight hose end. Part# 220090
1 -10an hose 3 ft length. Part# 230003
2 -Function7 Garrett T3 T4 -10 AN Turbo Oil Drain + Gasket. I bought 2 of these, one for the oil pan, and one for the turbo since I have a t3/t04e, if you have something different, you will have to find a different flange, but one of these will work for the flange on the oil pan. You can get them on Ebay here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Function7-Garrett-T3-T4-10-AN-Turbo-Oil-Drain-Gasket_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8015492477QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Here a drawing.


Sorry for the small pic, photobucket keeps resizing it.
~Jeffo



Top end: Ported and polished head, REV stainless Valves, Crower stage 2 cams, Crower valve springs and titanium retainers, SBI rockers and lashers, Fidanza Cam gears, ARP Headstuds.
Bottom end: JE 8.8:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, Balance rotating assembly, Clevitte Rod and Main bearings, Melling oil pump, Crank scraper, carter water pump.
Ignition: MSD Coil, MSD wires, NGK iridium spark plugs.
Bolt ons: MP 60mm throttle body, ported and polished intake manifold gasket matched, Magnaflow catback, high flow cat, Unorthodox UDP, Ground wire kit.
Suspension: Eibach Ground control coilovers, KYB AGX gas adjustable struts, Strut tower bars.
Drivetrain: SPEC stage 4 clutch
Body/Interior: VIS Evo carbon fiber hood, stock red body, stock black 16" rims. Ractive carbon shift boot and ebrake boot, Ractive carbon blue gauges (boost, oil press., volts, and cluster, blue underseat lights.
Installing at the moment: Garrett t3/t04e stage 2 water cooled turbo, RC 440cc injectors, Vortech SFMU, HKS SSQV BOV, Star FMIC and piping, Star manifold, 3" Downpipe, Tial 38mm WG, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Missing link.

Looks nice. I had a line like that, but halfassed putting the ends onto the -10AN hose so they leaked, and I replaced it with a rubber hose using the pushlock hose ends instead. I wish I would have gotten the drain flange like that, too, I use a standard Garrett one with a 1/2" NPT -> -10AN adapter

a 3 foot line though? wow :D I think mine just a bit over half that, but I've never measured it

Yeah, the shortest I could find was 3 feet from summit, I forgot to mention that you need to cut it to fit to your turbo. I used less than half of it actually.
~Jeffo



Top end: Ported and polished head, REV stainless Valves, Crower stage 2 cams, Crower valve springs and titanium retainers, SBI rockers and lashers, Fidanza Cam gears, ARP Headstuds.
Bottom end: JE 8.8:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, Balance rotating assembly, Clevitte Rod and Main bearings, Melling oil pump, Crank scraper, carter water pump.
Ignition: MSD Coil, MSD wires, NGK iridium spark plugs.
Bolt ons: MP 60mm throttle body, ported and polished intake manifold gasket matched, Magnaflow catback, high flow cat, Unorthodox UDP, Ground wire kit.
Suspension: Eibach Ground control coilovers, KYB AGX gas adjustable struts, Strut tower bars.
Drivetrain: SPEC stage 4 clutch
Body/Interior: VIS Evo carbon fiber hood, stock red body, stock black 16" rims. Ractive carbon shift boot and ebrake boot, Ractive carbon blue gauges (boost, oil press., volts, and cluster, blue underseat lights.
Installing at the moment: Garrett t3/t04e stage 2 water cooled turbo, RC 440cc injectors, Vortech SFMU, HKS SSQV BOV, Star FMIC and piping, Star manifold, 3" Downpipe, Tial 38mm WG, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Missing link.

I also forgot to include that you need to watch the clearance of the flange and fitting off of the pan, it comes close to the ac compressor. :)
~Jeffo



Top end: Ported and polished head, REV stainless Valves, Crower stage 2 cams, Crower valve springs and titanium retainers, SBI rockers and lashers, Fidanza Cam gears, ARP Headstuds.
Bottom end: JE 8.8:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, Balance rotating assembly, Clevitte Rod and Main bearings, Melling oil pump, Crank scraper, carter water pump.
Ignition: MSD Coil, MSD wires, NGK iridium spark plugs.
Bolt ons: MP 60mm throttle body, ported and polished intake manifold gasket matched, Magnaflow catback, high flow cat, Unorthodox UDP, Ground wire kit.
Suspension: Eibach Ground control coilovers, KYB AGX gas adjustable struts, Strut tower bars.
Drivetrain: SPEC stage 4 clutch
Body/Interior: VIS Evo carbon fiber hood, stock red body, stock black 16" rims. Ractive carbon shift boot and ebrake boot, Ractive carbon blue gauges (boost, oil press., volts, and cluster, blue underseat lights.
Installing at the moment: Garrett t3/t04e stage 2 water cooled turbo, RC 440cc injectors, Vortech SFMU, HKS SSQV BOV, Star FMIC and piping, Star manifold, 3" Downpipe, Tial 38mm WG, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Missing link.

not a bad idea, but i would still put some copper gasket sealer against the pan and that gasket, I had a slight leak from mine (similar setup) and ended up taking it apart to seal it correctly...other than that looks like a good route for those of use that went the custom route...and those of you headed that way.

edit: I got my fitting setup from a local hydrolic hose supplier for like 8$..it looks just like your diagram but with a different flange like that 'project zum' one....

Yeah, I got a 1/2" steel plate that I tapped for the inside of the pan for the flange to screw into, it was shaped just like the project Zum flange. That way they can pinch together and make the pan flat, I put a gasket on the inside and the outside just to be extra safe along with some rtv. But other ways will work as well.
~Jeffo



Top end: Ported and polished head, REV stainless Valves, Crower stage 2 cams, Crower valve springs and titanium retainers, SBI rockers and lashers, Fidanza Cam gears, ARP Headstuds.
Bottom end: JE 8.8:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, Balance rotating assembly, Clevitte Rod and Main bearings, Melling oil pump, Crank scraper, carter water pump.
Ignition: MSD Coil, MSD wires, NGK iridium spark plugs.
Bolt ons: MP 60mm throttle body, ported and polished intake manifold gasket matched, Magnaflow catback, high flow cat, Unorthodox UDP, Ground wire kit.
Suspension: Eibach Ground control coilovers, KYB AGX gas adjustable struts, Strut tower bars.
Drivetrain: SPEC stage 4 clutch
Body/Interior: VIS Evo carbon fiber hood, stock red body, stock black 16" rims. Ractive carbon shift boot and ebrake boot, Ractive carbon blue gauges (boost, oil press., volts, and cluster, blue underseat lights.
Installing at the moment: Garrett t3/t04e stage 2 water cooled turbo, RC 440cc injectors, Vortech SFMU, HKS SSQV BOV, Star FMIC and piping, Star manifold, 3" Downpipe, Tial 38mm WG, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Missing link.

Originally posted by powellds
Yeah, I got a 1/2" steel plate that I tapped for the inside of the pan for the flange to screw into, it was shaped just like the project Zum flange. That way they can pinch together and make the pan flat, I put a gasket on the inside and the outside just to be extra safe along with some rtv. But other ways will work as well. ~Jeffo

Hmmm... Looks suprisingly familiar. lol.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=8&topic_id=69119&mesg_id=69119&listing_type=search#69139



EDITED: because of that insanely lame 300 page long sig quote up there... that shouldn't even be quoted. Jeeeeeesus.

this might seem kinda stupid and i pretty much for the most part get what your doing there. Going to be tapping my extra oil pan tomorrow.

So basically all i need to do is get an extra oil drain flange that would normally bolt to the turbo and weld it to the top flat part of the oil pan? This would eliminate the need for a gasket correct? how well do the two materials, flange and oil pan weld together. What type of welds would i need to get? tig,mig,etc... (dosent know to terribly much about welding, will have someone do it for me.

i see you mentioned using a gasket also, so im guessing that drilled out holes and bolted the flange to the oil pan correct?

sorry if that seems stupid, just wanted to get clarification before i jump into that tomorrow.

Nice DJ, I guess I just never searched hard enough to find your post. Anyhew, midnitetill678 I would just bolt it to the pan if you are going to use that flange, if not, get a different flange to weld to your pan because that flange is aluminum and I don't think you can weld aluminum to our pans, I could be very wrong, but I would get a different flange if you want to weld it on. Good luck.
~Jeffo



Top end: Ported and polished head, REV stainless Valves, Crower stage 2 cams, Crower valve springs and titanium retainers, SBI rockers and lashers, Fidanza Cam gears, ARP Headstuds.
Bottom end: JE 8.8:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, Balance rotating assembly, Clevitte Rod and Main bearings, Melling oil pump, Crank scraper, carter water pump.
Ignition: MSD Coil, MSD wires, NGK iridium spark plugs.
Bolt ons: MP 60mm throttle body, ported and polished intake manifold gasket matched, Magnaflow catback, high flow cat, Unorthodox UDP, Ground wire kit.
Suspension: Eibach Ground control coilovers, KYB AGX gas adjustable struts, Strut tower bars.
Drivetrain: SPEC stage 4 clutch
Body/Interior: VIS Evo carbon fiber hood, stock red body, stock black 16" rims. Ractive carbon shift boot and ebrake boot, Ractive carbon blue gauges (boost, oil press., volts, and cluster, blue underseat lights.
Installing at the moment: Garrett t3/t04e stage 2 water cooled turbo, RC 440cc injectors, Vortech SFMU, HKS SSQV BOV, Star FMIC and piping, Star manifold, 3" Downpipe, Tial 38mm WG, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Missing link.

If i were to weld it on what type of flange would you recomend?

If i go ahead and bolt it should i just bolt it straight to the oil pan or should i use some locktite or lock washers on the inside of the pan?

Originally posted by midnitetill678
If i were to weld it on what type of flange would you recomend? If i go ahead and bolt it should i just bolt it straight to the oil pan or should i use some locktite or lock washers on the inside of the pan?

Cant weld aluminum to steel.

If you want to weld then you will need to get a -10AN Steel Weld fitting




Can be seen here:

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=&dept=Steel

very bottom one.

I personaly wouldnt use the Rev7 fitting on the pan. I would use the weld one or a bulkhead fitting as that actually goes through the wall of the pan and allows you to get a much much better seal if you use stat-o-seals with the bulkhead fitting.

:thumbsup There you go, I would just weld that in, you won't have to worry about leaks so much then.
~Jeffo



Top end: Ported and polished head, REV stainless Valves, Crower stage 2 cams, Crower valve springs and titanium retainers, SBI rockers and lashers, Fidanza Cam gears, ARP Headstuds.
Bottom end: JE 8.8:1 pistons, Eagle H-beam rods, Balance rotating assembly, Clevitte Rod and Main bearings, Melling oil pump, Crank scraper, carter water pump.
Ignition: MSD Coil, MSD wires, NGK iridium spark plugs.
Bolt ons: MP 60mm throttle body, ported and polished intake manifold gasket matched, Magnaflow catback, high flow cat, Unorthodox UDP, Ground wire kit.
Suspension: Eibach Ground control coilovers, KYB AGX gas adjustable struts, Strut tower bars.
Drivetrain: SPEC stage 4 clutch
Body/Interior: VIS Evo carbon fiber hood, stock red body, stock black 16" rims. Ractive carbon shift boot and ebrake boot, Ractive carbon blue gauges (boost, oil press., volts, and cluster, blue underseat lights.
Installing at the moment: Garrett t3/t04e stage 2 water cooled turbo, RC 440cc injectors, Vortech SFMU, HKS SSQV BOV, Star FMIC and piping, Star manifold, 3" Downpipe, Tial 38mm WG, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Missing link.

I basically went with dj's set-up but 8an. Seems to be working great, for what to get welded into pan, I managed to find a steel piece at home depot that worked perfectly with my 8an drain line. Just took it there and test matched it.

dunno if anyone else has tried this, i'll get pics once the car is back, but I used the star hardpipe for the oil return and had a -10an fitting welded to it, and then ran a stainless steel braided hose from that to the turbo? Kept the hose shorter and the hardpipe still passing by the downpipe to avoid any problems with heat.
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97 RS-T, STAR Stage 2, HAHN FMIC, Decah Lambo Doors, 19" Axis Hiros, Built 420a
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