I kno you are all going to tell me to read and i have, im just trying to compile all of the info onto one page. So if you could bear with me and just help me out it would be greatly appreciated. I just bought a used STAR stage 2 kit, i kno i should rebuild my engine first but i dont have the money yet and the boost bug has got me and i havent even put the turbo on yet lol. i just wanna kno is when i put it on with stock internals, say my compression is fine,200, i have a SFMU, SAFC2, is that all i need in regards to tuning because from what ive read tuning is VERY IMPORTANT, and the last thing i want is to blow my engine.I also have a walbro 255lph. Wat else is MAJORLY important that im missing, just dont want to blow my engine. cant afford to do that, If you can help me out that would be great thanx guys and feel free to im me on aim, im always on easier to talk that way. THANX

Originally posted by 96BlckGS
say my compression is fine,200,

Is that your compression after 115K miles?? :wary I don't think so.

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by 96BlckGS say my compression is fine,200,

Is that your compression after 115K miles?? :wary I don't think so.

He KNOs it is!!

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by 96BlckGS say my compression is fine,200,

Is that your compression after 115K miles?? :wary I don't think so.

yes thats wat its at, i got it from a guy with 95k on it maybe he did something but thats the compression, maybe a little different, havent checked it in a month or to, but thats wat it was a month ago, but that doesnt ansswer my main question

Well, help us out and list EVERYTHING you got with the kit. Then we'll go from there...


Brian

You dont need the safc, sell it. Use the SFMU and your stock system @ not more than 8 psi intercooled, and you should be good to go. Just install it all correctly. There is a TON of information here on the site, in fact you should just bookmark the search area...

how can i tune the car without the safc2, to keep it form running lean and rich, doesnt the safc2 tune it.

Parts with turbo kit:
T3/T4 turbo
FMIC
Turbonetics Wastegate
Greddy Type S BOV
4-1 manifold
complete oil line kit
all gaskets

you "tune" it with a bleed valve on the sfmu. You put in a disk that raises the fuel pressure enough to make it rich, then bleed off the boost until the sfmu raises the fuel pressure the right amount. The safc can cause problems if you try to adjust fuel under boost, its only somewhat usefull for getting big injectors to idle better. I've used 42lb injectors for over a year with no problems and I don't have an safc.

Okay, what about
intercooler piping
Some type of MAP limiter (voltage or vacuum?)
gauges (at least A/F EGT, boost)
fuel pump
spark plugs
fuel pressure gauge


That's all I can think about off the top of my head. The guys are right though, there's a lot of info on this site.

Brian

Originally posted by ForceFed420a
Okay, what about intercooler piping Some type of MAP limiter (voltage or vacuum?) gauges (at least A/F EGT, boost) fuel pump spark plugs fuel pressure gauge That's all I can think about off the top of my head. The guys are right though, there's a lot of info on this site. Brian

I left out the intercooler piping because i thought that was a given,i have all the piping, wat is a MAP limiter wat does it do and do i need one, and i just recently did a whole tuneup, new coil pack, spark plugs and wires, and i am going to get a 255lph walbro fuel pump

The stock Map (manifold air pressure) sensor is accustomed to reading vacuum (part throttle/idle) and normal air pressure (WOT). It's not used to seeing positive pressure (boost). With some type of clamp on the MAP (either voltage, or with a missing link which doesn't let the map see boost), the map never knows you're going into boost. this keeps the computer happy. If it does see boost, it'll buck cuz it'll pull fuel(?) and won't let you boost. That's why you need to limit it.


BTW: wHat has an "H" in it ;-)


Brian

Dood. You should just keep reading more and find out everything you can about the fuel management and turbos on our cars. I'm not trying to be an ass or anything cause I was once where you are right now. Wanna boost the car but actually don't really know much about it at all. There will be 20 comments from peeps here saying search, search and search cause they are right.

If you don't know what an AFC is "ACTUALLY" doing (modifying signals sent to the ecu) you'd realize it doesn't do much as far as Tuning your car. I don't care what you buddies buddy or your friken mechanic says. They don't know shit. You need to understand what a MAP sensor is and an o2 sensor and what a rising rate FP regulator is. You need to know that by raising fuel pressure your stock injectors will be at like 90 - 100% duty at WOT. Thats no good. That means bye bye motor. You just need to know a few more things.

Absorb the knowledge 2GNT has to offer.

Originally posted by ForceFed420a
Okay, what about intercooler piping Some type of MAP limiter (voltage or vacuum?) gauges (at least A/F EGT, boost) fuel pump spark plugs fuel pressure gauge That's all I can think about off the top of my head. The guys are right though, there's a lot of info on this site. Brian

A fuel pressure gauge can be bought from summit 50$ or so (mechanical and put it on your SFMU so you can adjust the pressure). Get the a/f, pyro and boost gauge while your at it.

Intercooler piping can be sourced from JC Whitney fairly cheap (mandril bent), and you DONT need 3", 2" is fine.

Spark Plugs, get one range colder NGK. Just get the V-power ones they seem to work good.

Fuel pump, you can use a walbro 255, or you can get an add on pump like the accell model.

The missing link is the most popular map limiter, might as well get it.

where can i get a missing link and wat does it do and ive read on other posts that they suck and to just do a voltage clamp, wat is that?

The link is a voltage clamp, Im not sure where to get them from, my car is a 95 so I never needed the missing link.

Actually, I believe the Missing Link limits the actual pressure, so the sensor never sees boost (someone correct me if I'm wrong). So stopping the problem by never showing the MAP boost, just showing it vacuum.

You can also "clamp" the voltage, in other words the MAP will see both vacuum AND boost, but when it tries to tell the ECU that it saw boost, the clamp limits the maximum voltage, so the ECU has no idea that you went into boost.


Brian

How do i actually clamp the voltage exactly

Originally posted by 96BlckGS
How do i actually clamp the voltage exactly

With a fucking VOLTAGE CLAMP!!! jeebus.

Use that button up top that has the words SEARCH on it. Then read and read and search and read. holy shitballs.

just buy a missing link, two screws and your done and you don't have to know anything else
i think someone is selling one in the for sale section now and if thats gone already just do a quick search for it here or on google and you'll find what your looking for

Originally posted by cs82685
just buy a missing link, two screws and your done and you don't have to know anything else i think someone is selling one in the for sale section now and if thats gone already just do a quick search for it here or on google and you'll find what your looking for

You dont need to know anything else... That is until it fucks up and you start another thread just like this one. Go read.

Oh and have a nice day.


I'm a novice listen to what I say and make your own conclusion.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by 96BlckGS How do i actually clamp the voltage exactly

With a fucking VOLTAGE CLAMP!!! jeebus. Use that button up top that has the words SEARCH on it. Then read and read and search and read. holy shitballs.

I feeeel your pain.

Threads like these make me want to slit my jugular.

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by 96BlckGS How do i actually clamp the voltage exactly

With a fucking VOLTAGE CLAMP!!! jeebus. Use that button up top that has the words SEARCH on it. Then read and read and search and read. holy shitballs.

I feeeel your pain. Threads like these make me want to slit my jugular.

Kill me 1st... murder/suicide pact.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by 96BlckGS How do i actually clamp the voltage exactly

With a fucking VOLTAGE CLAMP!!! jeebus. Use that button up top that has the words SEARCH on it. Then read and read and search and read. holy shitballs.

I feeeel your pain. Threads like these make me want to slit my jugular.

Kill me 1st... murder/suicide pact.

With pleasure. You're more annoying than the person who doesn't search. Please for the sake of everyone's eyes and patience, shut the hell up.

Anyway, back to the topic...
Everyone has been in your shoes before and you have alot of things to read about before you should safely boost your car. The following is a list of topics to check out and my opinions on them (I've been boosting my car since 1999, installed several other turbo kits, and have rebuilt my own and several other's engines so you can trust my opinion).

1. Missing link/Voltage clamp - what others are saying is mostly correct. The missing link is a check valve that goes between your intake manifold and your MAP sensor. It keeps the sensor from receiving any positive pressure caused by the turbo. A voltage clamp is an electrical device that is spliced into the wiring between your MAP sensor and your ecu. It keeps the voltage at 4.7v or below. If the ecu receives a signal from the MAP sensor over that voltage, it cuts fuel and the car bucks/studders.

2. SAFC - The safc is a useful tool for tuning most vehicles, but unfortunately, not ours. The reason that it sucks is because the only signal that it can alter to directly compensate for fuel correction is the MAP signal. Our ecu uses the MAP signal (along with other sensors) to determine the proper ignition timing and the amount of fuel to deliver. When the safc trys to lean the car out, it drops the MAP signal voltage. This will reduce fuel delivery, but also increase ignition timing. This is a BAD combo, especially on stock internals. Also, if you try to add fuel at wide open throttle, it will increase the MAP voltage above 4.7 volts thus causing fuel cut. The SAFC is much better suited for applications like the 4g63 that uses a Mass Air Sensor for fuel delivery instead of a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor like ours.

3. SFMU tuning - The best way for you to tune your car with that particular kit is to get VERY familiar with the Vortech SFMU. This unit is an adjustable rise rate fuel pressure regulator and it is extremely simple to use. It comes with multiple disks and springs that are used to determine the rise rate of fuel pressure with each lb of boost. Using an 8:1 disk for example: for every 1 lb of boost, the SFMU will add 8 psi of fuel pressure. Using a 12:1 disk will give you 12 psi of fuel pressure for every 1 lb of boost, and so on... The base pressure is also adjustable at the turn of a screw on the top of the regulator. If I were you, I would sell your safc and use the money to buy the Vortech SFMU and 310cc injectors. Several people use this setup safely running the same setup you will be. In my opinion, it's the best and safest way to tune when entering the turbo world.

If you don't have install instructions, you will run into several questions which you will be able to search and find the answers for. I believe the hahn instructions (and maybe star too) are posted on the main site. Read them through a few times before you even start the install. If you can't find an answer to a question, just ask and someone helpful will give you a hand. If I were in your shoes, I sure as hell would turbo your car. I wouldn't run 8 psi on that kit though if you absolutely cannot afford a rebuild. I would run 5-7 psi and run the car on the rich side. If you stay in that range, you'll be fine.

Originally posted by Aggression

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by 96BlckGS How do i actually clamp the voltage exactly

With a fucking VOLTAGE CLAMP!!! jeebus. Use that button up top that has the words SEARCH on it. Then read and read and search and read. holy shitballs.

I feeeel your pain. Threads like these make me want to slit my jugular.

Kill me 1st... murder/suicide pact.

Mr. Helpful at it again! You keep proving my point everyday!

Good to know!! :thumbsup

Can i use a AEM Wideband on my car, and should i buy one as opposed to just getting a standard A/F Guage,

yes you can use an AEM wideband on your car and no don't use a regular "blinky" A/F gauge, you can also use a zeitronix wideband, or an innovative wideband and probably others im forgetting

Use the innovatve LC-1 it is $150 for the controller, and $45 dollars for the wideband sensor which you get get at any VW dealership or right on innovative's main site

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php

You can buy gauges or just use a laptop to monitor afr ranges. Have you ever tried to stare at a gauge at full boost and full RPM? It's not that easy and may give you shifty results. I would stay with the laptop and use the realtime graph software included to save money.

It seems like you have alot to learn. Your afraid to blow your motor, well, not knowing about our motors and whats needed to install a turbo kit is gonna blow your motor before it actually runs . Research 2gnt'ers turbo setups by searching, and at the same time learning about it so when you do encounter a problem, you know what to look for. I have gotten plenty of help on here, so you can search and you will find everything you need to know. :)

wat does the wideband do over a standard a/f guage, i kno it has a O2 sensor that u use, but does all it do is give u a more accurate reading of ur a/f mixture, or does it allow u to controll it and change it or do u need something seperate for that, or can only the SFMU change that

The Wideband is just an improved accuracy. Getting an air fuel gauge and taping it off of the stock o2 sensor is worthless. Never reads rite and its just a fancy light show for people to look at. You can not adjust your air fuel ratio with the wideband you need a seperate unit for that such as a safc. Now to my knowledge you still adjust air fuel with your sfmu, but the safc is beneficial to have when you want to lean out or richen your fuel mixture through the rpm band. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

But i was told earlier that an SAFC would be bad for my application since im only runnig 5-7psi, if u look someone told me that it will hurt me, is that true

Yeah if i were you id search alot more on this topic, not to be mean but some of the questions you asked lead me to believe your not quite ready to turbo yet. i searched and searched for over a year before i turbo'd mine and i still dont know alot all i know is im boostin and my car is loving it. You mentioned 2 things that caught my eye and im gonna give you my advice based on the two things you said imo
1) you said your at 115000 miles but have 200 across the board and your internals are stock
Your ok to boost imo under these conditions, because your internals are stock your limited as to where you can go with it so lets say 8psi is your max, your only fuel mods should be some kinda fuel managment (fmu, Sfmu) i went with the vortech Fmu 12:1 disk, a walbro 255 fuel pump, might as well replace the fuel filter while your at it and your done. i would definatly use the missing link, it dumb proof and an easy install. forget the safc with your internals and set up you not gonna need to get into that degree of tuning and that brings me to your second statment.
2) i dont wanna blow my motor, joint the club i dont think any of us do but ill tell you this you start adjusting fuel curves and messing with the safc and have not a clue as to what you are doing you will blow your motor and youll do it quick. imo you definatly will need the intercooler and make sure you have no leaks at all! as for gauges, a good boost oil pressure and a/f ratio will work (yes the blinky one is ok for no more than the boost your gonna be pushing) if you want you can get a fuel pressure gauge to be sure as well but its your call

look at my set up in my sig. im pushing it right now cause i boost up to 10psi from time to time but so far no issues but my motor is built. id keep your set up at no more than 7psi and just watch your gauges and make sure all your vacume lines are good and tight.
turboing my car has been the best thing yet since ive been a member here and i know i would never have been able to do it myself without the info on this site. search, read and learn. we will be here for the rest
joe

Find out your compression first. Also, IMO you shouldn't buy one thing if you can't afford the next thing that could easily happen after the first thing has problems. Always be ready for the worst possible thing that can happen. That way you're ready for anything.
-Dave

got some tuning questions, after i install the turbo and start it for the first time, how do can i tune it, i am going to buy a wideband, but if i am only going to be running 5-7psi, is there even a way of tuning it besides the smfu. and if i take it to a dyno wat can they do if anything

Originally posted by 96BlckGS
got some tuning questions, after i install the turbo and start it for the first time, how do can i tune it, i am going to buy a wideband, but if i am only going to be running 5-7psi, is there even a way of tuning it besides the smfu. and if i take it to a dyno wat can they do if anything

if ur only running 5 psi all you need is an sfmu, as far as the dyno ive got no idea so id like to know also!

Originally posted by rs_smoked_you

Originally posted by 96BlckGS got some tuning questions, after i install the turbo and start it for the first time, how do can i tune it, i am going to buy a wideband, but if i am only going to be running 5-7psi, is there even a way of tuning it besides the smfu. and if i take it to a dyno wat can they do if anything

if ur only running 5 psi all you need is an sfmu, as far as the dyno ive got no idea so id like to know also!

You can actually tune anything but the fuel curve with the SFMU.

On a dyno with a standalone, you can do anything. Without there are no adjustments you can make on the stock ecu other than modifying MAP signals with an SAFC which is shit, imo. With a standalone you have your fuel and spark tables and you can adjust a/f and ignition advance. Thats how you TUNE a car. In Lamens terms.

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by rs_smoked_you

Originally posted by 96BlckGS got some tuning questions, after i install the turbo and start it for the first time, how do can i tune it, i am going to buy a wideband, but if i am only going to be running 5-7psi, is there even a way of tuning it besides the smfu. and if i take it to a dyno wat can they do if anything

if ur only running 5 psi all you need is an sfmu, as far as the dyno ive got no idea so id like to know also!

You can actually tune anything but the fuel curve with the SFMU. On a dyno with a standalone, you can do anything. Without there are no adjustments you can make on the stock ecu other than modifying MAP signals with an SAFC which is shit, imo. With a standalone you have your fuel and spark tables and you can adjust a/f and ignition advance. Thats how you TUNE a car. In Lamens terms.

in your guys opiions which is the best stand alone to get (megasquirt) and can i get a standalone no matter wat psi im running, just so it can be tuned whenever

Originally posted by 96BlckGS
got some tuning questions, after i install the turbo and start it for the first time, how do can i tune it, i am going to buy a wideband, but if i am only going to be running 5-7psi, is there even a way of tuning it besides the smfu. and if i take it to a dyno wat can they do if anything

and would buying the electomotive TEC3 be a bad idea or waste of money, and if i shouldnt get a stand alone system now when should i

Originally posted by 96BlckGS
and if i shouldnt get a stand alone system now when should i

If you can afford it, a standalone is the way to go if you're going turbo. In my opinion though, I'd trust somebody else to tune it (no offense).


Brian