just out of curiosity how many people blew there motor after going turbo? i know there is alot of info on here related but i just wanna get a general idea of what people have done, forged vs stock and low boost under 10psi. i know forged is by far the way to go but is it for sure you will blow your motor if you dont even with low boost? i hear alot of mixed stories so im asking those who know and have been through it. ive got a 98 rs which is modded to the t. .020 over 8.8:1 compression, forged internals, oversized valves, everything that can be ported and polished is 115000 miles. 200 across the board. i know this would be my best bet at turboing however i reciently picked up a 98 gs fully loaded and stock as the day it was purchased, also has 120,000 miles and timing belt was just replaced with al components. 185-190 compression across. no apparent leaks. my question is if i put a turbo kit (Hahn or star)on this car and stay low like 6-7 psi what are the chances in this motor going?i been around long enough to know there is no guarantee but im just looking for general info from those who know. what do you think?

Well, just to help a little bit. My motor blew out on me at 121,500 without a turbo kit. And there were 2 other eclipses out at the shop the same time as me, both non turbo that went at 114,300 and 134,000. All 95-97's. As far as turbo, I'll let ya know how long my new one will last!

Blew my stock motor with 51k on it running 5psi.

ran my engine stock with stage 2 at 7-8psi for like 8 months. no problems. beat on it daily. never blew. just pulled it out and put built bottem end in.

so i guess its safe to say its all in the way the kit is installed and what kinda kit you go with and what parts you are lacking. in most cases as long as you do everything right and dont go over 7 psi you should be ok on stock motor, its the comon mistakes like not upgrading fuel system or improper tuning that usually blows the motor. as long as everything is done right there should be no problems, than again the right way to do it is to build your bottom end so i guess its a catch 22, thanx for the imput guys, im gonna turbo my new gs and if it blows i guess ill learn from my mistakes, and ill still have my built rs to play with

I got 120k and she still pulls strong. I have beat the shit out of it everyday since I got it, hopefully after the boost It wont die.

It all really depends on several factors; maintenance of the engine, how well it is tuned, how hard its run, etc. Some people have run it for years at 5-7psi and not had any problems. Others have blown their motors within a year, so you never know. But if you have a stock block, with correct tuning, 5-7psi should be fine, just make sure you've done your research.

well Im on my second STAR stage II kit (thought the car was sold, sold kit, buyer backed out; got new kit) but I started boosting at like 45,000 and Im at 74K now still stage II but I have forged internals to install now, all ran at more then 8psi but less then 9psi.


Ive always used synthetic oils and 93,94, and 95 octane gasoline

9 months and 9psi on a stock motor and stock STAR kit here. Blew it giving Kaptainmyke Sorensen a joyride back in 2001... Would have lasted forever at 6, 7psi.

Its not even so much what kit you have, your compression you have now on the stock motor, or even how well you maintain your motor. There are different things that can go wrong and put you in deep.

Your axles, your transmission since your putting a bigger load onto your clutch now, your bearings, headgasket, etc....

Your rings might be holding up, but like me, I blew 2 rod bearings when my compression was perfect....

Who would have though ya know.

I shattered all 4 pistons on 10psi of boost on stock internals, because I was running extremely lean. As long as you have your air/fuel tuned properly i can see running 8-10lbs of boost. I recommend the sfmu, safc2, 440cc injectors, and the walbro fuel pump if not using the megasquirt.

Everything everyone said above is correct.

Just look at it this way. A motor is going to go when it wants...sometimes for the stupidest reasons imaginable. :nuts So if your motor isn't in the best of condition now...I would get it right before boostin it...just my opinion of course.

Think of it this way...you wouldn't take your 90 year old grandfather who is about on his death bed on the largest fastest roller coaster in the states would you? :wary

As long as your motor is sound, and you really have no other mechanical issues that need worked out...I say boost it and start a savings account for building your internals.

Happy Boostin! :thumbsup

Originally posted by eclipse7782
I shattered all 4 pistons on 10psi of boost on stock internals, because I was running extremely lean. As long as you have your air/fuel tuned properly i can see running 8-10lbs of boost. I recommend the sfmu, safc2, 440cc injectors, and the walbro fuel pump if not using the megasquirt.

Why and gods name would you run 440's on stock internals? You would be running rich all the time!!!! Badly probably.

440's are meant for higher boosting levels, dont waste $2-350 on 440's when your stock injectors will fuel you fine on stock internals under boost :nono

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
stock injectors will fuel you fine on stock internals under boost

Stock injectors are a bad idea when you throw in some boost pressure. You can do it by jacking up the pressure with a rising rate regulator - it will work, but it's a hoakey way to do it and it never works well.

Originally posted by ner947

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST stock injectors will fuel you fine on stock internals under boost

Stock injectors are a bad idea when you throw in some boost pressure. You can do it by jacking up the pressure with a rising rate regulator - it will work, but it's a hoakey way to do it and it never works well.

I thought stock injectors were good up to 10 psi? If not what is a good upgrade for just 10psi.

Originally posted by youkickedmydog

Originally posted by ner947

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST stock injectors will fuel you fine on stock internals under boost

Stock injectors are a bad idea when you throw in some boost pressure. You can do it by jacking up the pressure with a rising rate regulator - it will work, but it's a hoakey way to do it and it never works well.

I thought stock injectors were good up to 10 psi? If not what is a good upgrade for just 10psi.

They are okay for up to like 8psi I think.

a rising rate regular is always a MUST...

i would upgrade stock injectors at anything over 6psi, but as for me, I just hit the 160k mark and have been boosting happily for over 3years now, and the car is still running great.

My motor blew after two months. I'm sure it was because of my cam and crank sensors that went out.

I went with 30# injectors so I could keep my fp down. I am running about 7psi and if you run the SFMU with the walbro it works out to like a 23psi idle and 55psi wot. That is just me though...I don't even like to come close to maxin out my injectors.

I was on stock injectors for about a year on 5 psi, but since upgraded from 235cc to 270cc. Worth the extra insurance imo, and easy installation. I just don't want the extra risk of running lean.

wow i never expected for such a turn out with this post, thanx to all the contributed and wish me luck with my new jurney into the world of boost. 1 more question. for now im not gonna go above like 5 or 6 psi, im mostlikely gonna be un intercooled and i thought if i had the walbro 255 and the vortech fmu id be fine with stock injectors? am i wrong here or what do you think?

Originally posted by joeck76
wow i never expected for such a turn out with this post, thanx to all the contributed and wish me luck with my new jurney into the world of boost. 1 more question. for now im not gonna go above like 5 or 6 psi, im mostlikely gonna be un intercooled and i thought if i had the walbro 255 and the vortech fmu id be fine with stock injectors? am i wrong here or what do you think?

I dont think you can run a 255lph, it overpowers the rail or something, then again I though that stock injectors ran up to 10 psi.

yes you can run a 255lph and fmu on stock injectors with no problem

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst
yes you can run a 255lph and fmu on stock injectors with no problem

my world has been flipped upside down

Originally posted by youkickedmydog

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst yes you can run a 255lph and fmu on stock injectors with no problem

my world has been flipped upside down

Almost everyone here uses a walbro 255.

I started out with stock injectors and FMU + walbro at 6psi for about 3 months, now I run between 8 and 9 psi with 40#s, SFMU and SAFC on a stock 120k+ motor for about 9 months with no issues, it's all in the tuning.(considering you started out with a decent engine)

yeah make sure you've got all your fuel in order, and please keep an eye on the boost...one run spiking over 10psi and I had blow-by everywhere accompanied by a horrible compression test :wallbash

Engine 1: @60k stock, ran for 5k miles @ 6-9psi, 3 blown pistons. Cause: Faulty FPR, FCD, and boost gauge in HRC kit.

Engine 2: @65k Howell rebuild kit, ran for 8k miles @ 10-18psi, 1 blown headgasket, 1 melted piston, 1 junked block. Cause: Leaking headgasket.

Engine 3: @73k OEM rebuild, ran for 600 miles @ 0psi, 3 shattered rods, 1 junked block. Cause: Hydrolock with Iceman CAI

Engine 4: @ 73k stock, Still running after 15k miles, completely bone stock.

Conclusion: Modifying your car in any way will eventually break something. All you can do is perform the regular maintenance, and make sure your modifications are working correctly. FWIW, I would NEVER go above 6psi on factory internals.

i ran 10psi on a stock bottom end for 20k miles with a side mount, water injection and stock injectors

wastegate clip fell out one night and it it boost spiked, i knew it was toast because all the socal dsm guys called me spyhunter because of my black smoke cloud following me, drove it for another 1800 miles and finally rebuilt. cracked some ringlands, but that was it


edit: i turboed my motor at around 118000 too, blew at 138k

I ran 8 psi for a year and 1/2 on my stock motor (72k miles - 89k miles). Using the old Cartech regulator that everyone hates with stock injectors a long time ago. I had a fully built motor ready to swap in so I decided to see how much the stock bottom end could really hold. I ran 13 psi for 2 weeks before cracking 3 ring lands. The motor still ran the day I pulled it out. Had I not ran 13 psi, I'm confident that it would still be running strong today (3 years later).

Just a tip though, it's a much better idea using fuel pressure to tune our cars rather than an safc when running on stock internals. Reason being is that some people go with an afc and larger injecors because they think that adding more pressure to stock injecors is a hokey way of tuning a car (which in some ways it is), but actually it's a much safer way to go because the only thing you are messing with is fuel. AFC's not only change your fuel delivery, but they also change your ignition timing. As you lean out on the safc you also increase ignition timing which when combined with boost, will cause knock. IMO, an afc should only be used on our cars for very fine tuning. Anything more is just asking for trouble.

My stock motor blew after about 20,000 miles at 8psi.

I didn't blow my stocker, but I only ran 7-8lbs boost on it for 7k. (I still have it). I actually blew a built motor - but it had nothing to do with the turbo. I spun a main rod bearing. So, I'm building a third motor now. I hope to be up and running at about 15lbs of boost by next spring.

Originally posted by techboy
I spun a main rod bearing.

:scratch

Why is that a question in your mind ^^^^? Main rod bearing spun, lost significant amount of oil pressure, forced metal shavings through the oil passages, motor was screwed .... you get the point.

You either spun a main bearing, or a rod bearing. There is no heirarchy of bearing status between rods that would require one main rod bearing ;)

Originally posted by Matt_95tgs
You either spun a main bearing, or a rod bearing. There is no heirarchy of bearing status between rods that would require one main rod bearing ;)

Dude what are you talking about?? I blew my main fuel injector a month ago causing my main spark plug to shit the bed. Luckily one of my 3 peasant spark plugs stepped up and saved the block. Also when I was rebuilding my engine and bought my new rod bearings there was clearly a bearing in the box marked "sppeeeeeecccccial"

I'm adding a hahn stage 2 to a 95 talon right now. It has 130k and I ran somewhere between 5-10 bottles of nitrous w/ it. All 75 shots. I took the nitrous off and its now on my daily driver 99 eclipse. I just hit 120k w/ that car. I think I drive too much. All stock internals... for now. :wary

.

I guess I'll throw my 2 cents in.

Im going on almost 2 years of 17psi on 10.5:1, with no probs. Still runs real strong.