Alright my car is getting very tough to start after my Walbro install. Once underway, it is totally fine and everything looks just like it did at stock although my mileage has taken a bit of a hit. But, it takes almost a second now to start the car (about 10 cranks) while it took only about 4 cranks right after the install. No fuel leaks or vacuum leaks anywhere.

What is causing this problem? Could a leak between the output end of the pump and the input on the fuel pump assy (usually bridged by a section of hose) cause this problem? I don't think a clogged vent line could cause this. How can I diagnose this problem?

hmmm... im going on 2 years with the walbro pump and re-wire. i havent had this problem yet. can you still hear it prime? did you do the rewire? sorry, cant help much but i thought i would throw some ideas out.

why was it taking 4 cranks to begin with? it's usually easier to fix problems BEFORE you add on new equipment... now you've got an additional component to trouble shoot.

Originally posted by MCubed45
why was it taking 4 cranks to begin with? it's usually easier to fix problems BEFORE you add on new equipment... now you've got an additional component to trouble shoot.

Unfortunately... I agree. Mine only takes 1, maybe 2, cranks to fire up, and thats with all the mods.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by MCubed45 why was it taking 4 cranks to begin with? it's usually easier to fix problems BEFORE you add on new equipment... now you've got an additional component to trouble shoot.

Unfortunately... I agree. Mine only takes 1, maybe 2, cranks to fire up, and thats with all the mods.

The car started great before the Walbro install, right after the install it took 4 cranks and I figured that sucked but I could contend with that, now it takes forever.

Turn the key to ON. You should hear the fuel pump prime. Someone should be watching the fuel pressure. It should have risen. If you didn't hear the pump prime, you have an electrical issue. If it primed, but the pressure doesn't rise, you may have a sealing problem. The final test is to jumper the fuel pump relay to run the pump without the engine running. Unplug the relay and stick a wire in the relay harness connection to connect 12V from the ignition to the fuel pump. the fuel pump should start running and you should see your fuel pressure rise and stabilize at your static fuel pressure setting (0 psi boost). Turn the key to start the car. If it fires right up, you have narrowed the problem down.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Originally posted by Corbin
Turn the key to ON. You should hear the fuel pump prime. Someone should be watching the fuel pressure. It should have risen. If you didn't hear the pump prime, you have an electrical issue. If it primed, but the pressure doesn't rise, you may have a sealing problem. The final test is to jumper the fuel pump relay to run the pump without the engine running. Unplug the relay and stick a wire in the relay harness connection to connect 12V from the ignition to the fuel pump. the fuel pump should start running and you should see your fuel pressure rise and stabilize at your static fuel pressure setting (0 psi boost). Turn the key to start the car. If it fires right up, you have narrowed the problem down. Corbin '95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Thanks Corbin, solved my problem

Originally posted by BumpinTalon
The car started great before the Walbro install, right after the install it took 4 cranks and I figured that sucked but I could contend with that, now it takes forever.

crap i can't read. sorry. :wallbash

glad you got it fixed :thumbsup

corbin rocks!

So what exactly was this whole jumper thing suppose to do. I have this problem sometimes soon but I dont understand what jumping the relay does?

Originally posted by EclipseTenzoR
So what exactly was this whole jumper thing suppose to do. I have this problem sometimes soon but I dont understand what jumping the relay does?

I'm just saying to force the fuel pump on. You can unplug the relay and use a wire to connect two pins in the plug together. You connect the battery 12V+ pin to the fuel pump power pin. You are just doing the same thing the relay would do if it was working. This also lets you run the fuel pump without the car running. It will pressurize the whole system, so you could look for leaks like this too.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I understand bypassing the realy, but is fixing the problem that when I turn the key it cranks 3-4 times? Do I need to do the re-wire mod

The bypass is just a test that lets you eliminate possible causes for starting issues. Poor starting could be a million things. If jumpering the fuel pump fixes it, then you know you have a relay problem or ECU problem. The ECU trips the relay closed, so it could be either one, or wiring in between. Since the rewire generally retains the stock relay and ECU control, it is not a fix for hard starting.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire