So I FINALLY figured out the MAP wiring for the FCD and it idled good, still rich (around 12.4) so I decided it was time to go for a drive finally and see how she did.

Lets just say, I drove for about 1.7 minutes and I was back home. Go figure~

So, Heres what hapened:

*Car stalled everytime I came to a stop and when I was shifting gears.
*Car was running ungodly rich.
*Car sputtered like a retard having sex.
*and the ignition control module A AND B codes are back.

What and the fuck are these codes from? I am guessing these codes have something to do with my rich ass a/f mixture and why these other symptoms have arrived.

I have the whole day off tomorrow and would like to resolve this by then.

So what am I left to do? Someone has got to have an idea here...

Could it be the crank sensor or something or the Intake Air temp sensor or even the MAP? :shrug

Guys/Gals,

I have been reading later posts on these codes and most have to find it was a bad ECU...

I checked compression and got 175-175-175-180 so I am good to go on that.
Checked all the wiring from the relays to the coil and coil to ecu and its all good, no shorts or anything.

I dont know what else to try. I am trying to diagnose it before I buy a used ECU, but I have been leaning towards that gosh damn ECU ofr awhile now.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
I am trying to diagnose it before I buy a used ECU, but I have been leaning towards that gosh damn ECU ofr awhile now.

Good God maN. You've got enough money tied up in that thing that you SHOULD DEF be running MSnS.

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST I am trying to diagnose it before I buy a used ECU, but I have been leaning towards that gosh damn ECU ofr awhile now.

Good God maN. You've got enough money tied up in that thing that you SHOULD DEF be running MSnS.

I know this, But I know nothing about MSnS yet and dont have the money yet for it. Planning for it by winter, but need to fix this prob to get it running for now...

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Guys/Gals, I have been reading later posts on these codes and most have to find it was a bad ECU... I checked compression and got 175-175-175-180 so I am good to go on that. Checked all the wiring from the relays to the coil and coil to ecu and its all good, no shorts or anything. I dont know what else to try. I am trying to diagnose it before I buy a used ECU, but I have been leaning towards that gosh damn ECU ofr awhile now.

Okay, so a little 10 minute update here and now whats up:

Checked plugs, dark as black can be from richness.

Decided to bust out the good old test light.

I get no light when I touch any of the 3 wires that connect to the plug for the coil pack.

No light either from the 3 colored wires for the ignition coil by the ECU as well.

I thought it was maybe just the light so I decided to to touch the EGR solenoid connector since I no longer have the EGR and I got a light on it, so Looks like it "could" be the ECU then huh?

I also tried connecting to the yellow/black MAP wire by the ECU (The MAP signal wire) and got no light as well.

My signs are telling me I need a new ECU, whats your brain say?

mikey- u could get my door panels done and that would be some cash for the ms :) wheres my pics? u never answer when i ask y u duckn me lil brotha....... :)

Originally posted by widebodyeclipse
mikey- u could get my door panels done and that would be some cash for the ms :) wheres my pics? u never answer when i ask y u duckn me lil brotha....... :)

cant find the camera ben, when i do, you'll have mail! :)

No one has anything to try?

I pulled out the ECU this morning and took the cover plate off and wanted to see if I found any burn marks or anything, but the ECU has that red gelly shit inside of it and its hard to tell if anything actually fried in it.

If its the ECU, which i think it is, The only I can think of it getting fucked up is becuz I disconnected/connected the SAFC like 6 times in 2 days trying to figurre soemthing out...:shrug

cool


give it a whirl. that would be easy to borrow one from someone and it will let u know if it is jackd up. good luck with that

Originally posted by widebodyeclipse
cool give it a whirl. that would be easy to borrow one from someone and it will let u know if it is jackd up. good luck with that

ya if only there were any 2g's around here.

we have like none in ohio.

me and mike (talonguy2005) and his is a 95 i think so it woudlnt work to swap.

First, get the missing link, this is 10x better in my opinion then the fcd. Then see if your problem still exists. Also what is your vaccum at idle and what is the pressure on the safc at idle? Are u running 7 in 7 out? From all that unplugging of the safc did u check to make sure the settings are still stored and correct on the safc?

Originally posted by eclipse7782
First, get the missing link, this is 10x better in my opinion then the fcd. Then see if your problem still exists.

I did have the Missing Link and I had problems with it all the time. so I sent it back to Synapse, got a new one, and then sold it to Sike.

Originally posted by eclipse7782
Also what is your vaccum at idle and what is the pressure on the safc at idle? Are u running 7 in 7 out?

Vac @ idle is around 16-17, My car has always ran kinda low like that, and no, there are no vac leaks, I have checked a shitload of times. Yes, I am running 7 in and 7 out on the SAFC.

Originally posted by eclipse7782
From all that unplugging of the safc did u check to make sure the settings are still stored and correct on the safc?

Yes, I went over it about 5 times before I narrowed down to the ECU.
The settings NEVER changed.