My A/F gauge reads .84-.85 at WOT under boost, but that's what it read when the engine wasn't seeing boost at WOT, is it possible that my gauge just reads low? My setup is stock injectors with sfmu with largest disk and dark spring, and at 5-5.5 pounds FP was 70-75 psi(if i remember correctly that's about right or no?) Idle FP is set at 45 psi just trying to get a general consensus on my situation.
Any opinions will be helpful TIA

btw, will max FP be effected by raising or lowering FP at idle?

Originally posted by cs82685
My A/F gauge reads .84-.85 at WOT under boost, but that's what it read when the engine wasn't seeing boost at WOT, is it possible that my gauge just reads low? My setup is stock injectors with sfmu with largest disk and dark spring, and at 5-5.5 pounds FP was 70-75 psi(if i remember correctly that's about right or no?) Idle FP is set at 45 psi just trying to get a general consensus on my situation. Any opinions will be helpful TIA btw, will max FP be effected by raising or lowering FP at idle?

narrow band gauges are worthless, dont use one for tuning, use you a egt gauge and get a wideband.

i dont think lowering or raising your idle FP will affect your max FP under boost.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
i dont think lowering or raising your idle FP will affect your max FP under boost.

Quit answering questions when you have NO clue what the hell you are talking about.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST i dont think lowering or raising your idle FP will affect your max FP under boost.

Quit answering questions when you have NO clue what the hell you are talking about.

so does that mean he's wrong or he should just be sure of something if he's gonna answer?

I had my fp with stock injectors at about 50 psi since hrc says so... My max fp was about 86-90 and I think you max is too low imo.

are you relying on a narrowband o2 sensor??... if so, stop, its not accurate enough to even look at.

go to a dyno with a wideband or better yet get a wideband for in the car cause there is a difference between tuning on the dyno with a wideband and tuning on the street with a wideband.

thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

yeah i caught that, that's why i was trying to figure out if he was just kidding or if he was serious b/c he sounded a little angered about your answer

Originally posted by cs82685

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

yeah i caught that, that's why i was trying to figure out if he was just kidding or if he was serious b/c he sounded a little angered about your answer

he is always PMS'ing. i didnt know for sure, thast why i said, i think.

but dood, dont tune to a narrowband o2, use your egt gauge.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by cs82685

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

yeah i caught that, that's why i was trying to figure out if he was just kidding or if he was serious b/c he sounded a little angered about your answer

he is always PMS'ing. i didnt know for sure, thast why i said, i think. but dood, dont tune to a narrowband o2, use your egt gauge.

wanna give a few hints or links about tuning with the egt gauge, i did a quick search but i'm too tired to search for hours

Originally posted by cs82685

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

yeah i caught that, that's why i was trying to figure out if he was just kidding or if he was serious b/c he sounded a little angered about your answer

No I'm fucking serious. He has no clue what the hell he is talking about. He likes to post wrong answers and innacurate information all the time. If I were you I would always ALWAYS ask for a second opinion whenever you read a thread of his.

To the topic he is so fucking wrong about... where do you think the FPR rises from? It has to have a starting point which is your idle fuel psi or you could adjust it from your static fuel psi. Either way thats your baseline. Since we know the stock non-turbo eclipse has a factory fuel press. of around 50-55, that would be a good starting point. Of course the idle fuel press is going to affect the overall end result max boost pressure.

Dont ever listen to him. He can blow up your engine with bad advice alone. thanks and have a good night.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by cs82685

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

yeah i caught that, that's why i was trying to figure out if he was just kidding or if he was serious b/c he sounded a little angered about your answer

No I'm fucking serious. He has no clue what the hell he is talking about. He likes to post wrong answers and innacurate information all the time. If I were you I would always ALWAYS ask for a second opinion whenever you read a thread of his. To the topic he is so fucking wrong about... where do you think the FPR rises from? It has to have a starting point which is your idle fuel psi or you could adjust it from your static fuel psi. Either way thats your baseline. Since we know the stock non-turbo eclipse has a factory fuel press. of around 50-55, that would be a good starting point. Of course the idle fuel press is going to affect the overall end result max boost pressure. Dont ever listen to him. He can blow up your engine with bad advice alone. thanks and have a good night.

HAHAHA told you, ALWAYS PMS'ing!!!!!!!!

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
HAHAHA told you, ALWAYS PMS'ing!!!!!!!!

If thats what you want to call me trying to help steer people away from your "tech advice" then thats fine with me. I just wish you would stop posting things you have no freakin' clue about. I don't give a shit if you post a million posts a day in the interior/exterior forum, but you need to stop posting in performance and turbo topics when you obviously have no clue and like to give out seriously bad advice.

I wish all n3wbies and new-tuners could read this statement of fact.

Lets try and stay on topic here please.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by cs82685

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

yeah i caught that, that's why i was trying to figure out if he was just kidding or if he was serious b/c he sounded a little angered about your answer

No I'm fucking serious. He has no clue what the hell he is talking about. He likes to post wrong answers and innacurate information all the time. If I were you I would always ALWAYS ask for a second opinion whenever you read a thread of his. To the topic he is so fucking wrong about... where do you think the FPR rises from? It has to have a starting point which is your idle fuel psi or you could adjust it from your static fuel psi. Either way thats your baseline. Since we know the stock non-turbo eclipse has a factory fuel press. of around 50-55, that would be a good starting point. Of course the idle fuel press is going to affect the overall end result max boost pressure. Dont ever listen to him. He can blow up your engine with bad advice alone. thanks and have a good night.

Post it in the Pits IMO

And ditch your SFMU so you can make way for a MegaSquirt. Most fuel injector manufacturers recomend not going over 70psi at risk of valve failure, and you guys a scratching 90psi! With the price and knowledge we we have on the MS, there's no reason to stay with a rising rate FPR anymore.

Side point, I remember reading that stock fuel pressure is set at 43.5psi, was that wrong?

The stock pressure is about 43, however when running boost, you need a little more pressure.

Originally posted by siueclipse
The stock pressure is about 43,

Wrong, wrong, wrong.

http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=6
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=4&topic_id=43832&mesg_id=43832&listing_type=search#43832

Lets try and stay on topic here please. And the topic is you are wrong.

Each car is different bud... and like I said.. its about that pressure, but then i recommended higher.

Quit being an asshole would you please? Ive seen you in too many threads acting like a jerk.

Originally posted by siueclipse
Each car is different bud... and like I said.. its about that pressure, but then i recommended higher. Quit being an asshole would you please? Ive seen you in too many threads acting like a jerk.

So to keep this thread on topic, you are telling me that every 96-99 eclipse came from the factory with a different stock fuel pressure setting? did they flip a coin to see which ones got the 43 psi and which ones got the 50psi? Hmmmm. Doesn't make sense to me bud.

Its not being an asshole when I'm right. And you are wrong. Its not being an asshole to warn the n3wbies that eclipsehingetunerguy is clueless 99% of the time and likes to give out bad info. Even the orignal poster was able to recognize that fact.

Please don't make me lump you into the same category as MLRB (my little retarded buddy) up there.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by siueclipse Each car is different bud... and like I said.. its about that pressure, but then i recommended higher. Quit being an asshole would you please? Ive seen you in too many threads acting like a jerk.

So to keep this thread on topic, you are telling me that every 96-99 eclipse came from the factory with a different stock fuel pressure setting? did they flip a coin to see which ones got the 43 psi and which ones got the 50psi? Hmmmm. Doesn't make sense to me bud. Its not being an asshole when I'm right. And you are wrong. Its not being an asshole to warn the n3wbies that eclipsehingetunerguy is clueless 99% of the time and likes to give out bad info. Even the orignal poster was able to recognize that fact. Please don't make me lump you into the same category as MLRB (my little retarded buddy) up there.

You are just a jealous little bitch overall and a monster sized JERK, and everyone can see it. End of story. I was trying to help the guy, and I didnt know for sure, so thats why again, for the un-millionth time, I said, "I Think." Atleast im not the only that see's your a goof off. Now come back and say something stupid to make yourself look funny.

Ya I may not know everything, but I sure as hell am learning.

Oh, and although this is off topic, djjerkie, are you ready to look like a complete fool at the shootout when we race? Been doing a little tuning on my car with a few new toys I have, and I think your gonna be impressed you goof off.

Originally posted by totaleklipse97
*Just a general rule of courtesy.. If you don't know what your talking about when you post advice PLEASE DELETE YOUR REPLY! I have seen replies to topics with advice I wouldn't give to the annoying ricer across the road. Don't take it personally, if you feel it applies to you..(who all know who you are) then change so it doesn't apply to you.

We have had these discussions before... I'm getting very tired of them.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
incoherent babbling.

Shush. This conversation no longer involves you. lol. But thanks for mentioning the monster sized part. That is true.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST incoherent babbling.

Shush. This conversation no longer involves you. lol. But thanks for mentioning the monster sized part. That is true.

altho you piss me off alot, sometimes, you make me laugh, just cause your weird and a jerk.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST incoherent babbling.

Shush. This conversation no longer involves you. lol. But thanks for mentioning the monster sized part. That is true.

altho you piss me off alot, sometimes, you make me laugh, just cause your weird and a jerk.

I wish it was giggle.

Originally posted by Keith2172

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by cs82685

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

yeah i caught that, that's why i was trying to figure out if he was just kidding or if he was serious b/c he sounded a little angered about your answer

No I'm fucking serious. He has no clue what the hell he is talking about. He likes to post wrong answers and innacurate information all the time. If I were you I would always ALWAYS ask for a second opinion whenever you read a thread of his. To the topic he is so fucking wrong about... where do you think the FPR rises from? It has to have a starting point which is your idle fuel psi or you could adjust it from your static fuel psi. Either way thats your baseline. Since we know the stock non-turbo eclipse has a factory fuel press. of around 50-55, that would be a good starting point. Of course the idle fuel press is going to affect the overall end result max boost pressure. Dont ever listen to him. He can blow up your engine with bad advice alone. thanks and have a good night.

Post it in the Pits IMO And ditch your SFMU so you can make way for a MegaSquirt. Most fuel injector manufacturers recomend not going over 70psi at risk of valve failure, and you guys a scratching 90psi! With the price and knowledge we we have on the MS, there's no reason to stay with a rising rate FPR anymore. Side point, I remember reading that stock fuel pressure is set at 43.5psi, was that wrong?

SFMU - $240
Megasquirt - $400 if you are lucky

Those sensors add to the cost really, really fast, and the SFMU is basically a bolt in and go affair while the MS has the tedious tuning process.

In the long term though, the Megasquirt absolutely stomps the SFMU in every aspect because it is just better.

Originally posted by cs82685
My A/F gauge reads .84-.85 at WOT under boost, but that's what it read when the engine wasn't seeing boost at WOT, is it possible that my gauge just reads low? My setup is stock injectors with sfmu with largest disk and dark spring, and at 5-5.5 pounds FP was 70-75 psi(if i remember correctly that's about right or no?) Idle FP is set at 45 psi just trying to get a general consensus on my situation. Any opinions will be helpful TIA btw, will max FP be effected by raising or lowering FP at idle?

Raise your idle pressure to about 50-55 psi and it should help out your top end to give you a little more fuel.

Get yourself an EGT gauge and if you can afford it, a wideband. I personally like the Dynojet Wideband Commander.

I wouldnt boost without an EGT gauge at least.. your basically driving your motor blind without one.

Narrow band readings have been known to be inacuate which is why nobody tunes by them. If you must tune by narrow band, you need to shoot for .93, which I feel is the sweet spot and a hair rich to ensure damage doesn't occur.

Good luck.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by cs82685

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST thats why i said i didnt THINK so, you goof.

To the topic he is so fucking wrong about... where do you think the FPR rises from? It has to have a starting point which is your idle fuel psi or you could adjust it from your static fuel psi. Either way thats your baseline. Since we know the stock non-turbo eclipse has a factory fuel press. of around 50-55, that would be a good starting point. Of course the idle fuel press is going to affect the overall end result max boost pressure. Dont ever listen to him. He can blow up your engine with bad advice alone. thanks and have a good night.

Thanks i found the sfmu instructions and their chart showed rising rates from the idle fp so i thought raising idle fp would raise max
now i know that its true, i appreciate the help

Originally posted by siueclipse

Originally posted by cs82685

Raise your idle pressure to about 50-55 psi and it should help out your top end to give you a little more fuel. Get yourself an EGT gauge and if you can afford it, a wideband. I personally like the Dynojet Wideband Commander. I wouldnt boost without an EGT gauge at least.. your basically driving your motor blind without one. Narrow band readings have been known to be inacuate which is why nobody tunes by them. If you must tune by narrow band, you need to shoot for .93, which I feel is the sweet spot and a hair rich to ensure damage doesn't occur. Good luck.

I have an EGT gauge i'm just not sure exactly what i want to be seeing i know you dont really want to go over 1550 and i found a post that said if your egt's rise fast thats an indication that your running lean, but it could also mean your running rich so i'm a little confused with that thanks for the input

Just make sure at WOT, that your EGT doesn't cross 1600 degrees. Fast climbing EGTs mean nothing.

Tuning only to an EGT gauge can be very misleading, but also, can be very helpful, providing you know what to look for, and have the proper system running the engine to tune it. With just the SFMU setup, you at the mercy of the stock ECU for ignition timing, which is VERY important also, but nobody ever mentions it. Hot EGT's don't necessarily mean running to lean or rich. Not running enough timing advance under boost can make for REALLY hot EGT's, and a fast rising EGT. Combustion is taking place too late in the engine cycle, and the flame front is still burning, partially out the exhaust valve and into your EGT probe. Case in point here, from personal experience:

Using the Megasquirt for fuel AND timing control, i set A/F to around 12.4:1 at 10 psi boost. Ignition timing was around 22-23 degrees advance. Top of 4th gear at 10 psi, EGT's were sitting steady at 1550 degrees aprox, and not going any higher. This is a *good* state of tune for that boost pressure. Now, with the stock ECU doing ignition, timing advance is roughly around 17 degrees, at ANY boost pressure,with no good way to get more timing(playing with the MAP signal can help, but only if you run the MS for fuel). So with the stock ECU at 17 degrees, and the A/F the SAME at 12.4:1 at 10 psi, EGT's RISE FAST up to 1600 in 4th gear, way before i can even get through all of the gear.

This goes to show that tuning to EGT only, is not the best way to do it. Since with the SFMU we are at the mercy of the stock ECU for timing, we have to run richer than that *perfect* tune, in order to keep the EGT reasonable(and also not making the power we should be). I hear a lot of people say that running too rich can cause hight EGT, but i've run this motor in the 10:1 A/F range before, and EGT's were cold as hell with all that fuel. Too little timing will cause a high EGT over too rich A/F any day. To sum it up, too little timing, or too little fuel will give you a high EGT, and fast climbing EGT. Hopefully this clears things up a bit with boosted tuning.

Originally posted by XtremeRS
Using the Megasquirt for fuel AND timing control, i set A/F to around 12.4:1 at 10 psi boost. Ignition timing was around 22-23 degrees advance. Top of 4th gear at 10 psi, EGT's were sitting steady at 1550 degrees aprox, and not going any higher. This is a *good* state of tune for that boost pressure. Now, with the stock ECU doing ignition, timing advance is roughly around 17 degrees, at ANY boost pressure,with no good way to get more timing(playing with the MAP signal can help, but only if you run the MS for fuel). So with the stock ECU at 17 degrees, and the A/F the SAME at 12.4:1 at 10 psi, EGT's RISE FAST up to 1600 in 4th gear, way before i can even get through all of the gear.

That is some interesting reading.

Is 10psi your max boost? or was the merely the goal of that particular "tune session". I'm just curious if you have experimented with changing the ign. timing with boost and target AFR or if you are tuning to your AFR and THEN adjusting your timing to suit that situation. I'm probably sounding confusing.

Originally posted by djtrickee
That is some interesting reading. Is 10psi your max boost? or was the merely the goal of that particular "tune session". I'm just curious if you have experimented with changing the ign. timing with boost and target AFR or if you are tuning to your AFR and THEN adjusting your timing to suit that situation. I'm probably sounding confusing.

That was just a rough tuning session really. For me, 10 psi is a simple, safe boost pressure to tune at, since i have a 10 psi wastegate actuator. I then use the Profec B spec II controller to switch to high boost at 15 psi.

When tuning, the air/fuel ratio should stay more of a "constant", but as boost gets higher, slightly richening the mix will be fine. To make most power out of whatever boost you run, you need the right amount of air/fuel mix, the right amount of timing, for the given engine compression ratio, for the given amount of fuel octane. There is only so much boost pressure you can run with so much fuel octane. Sure, you can start to retard timing to keep detonation away, but now we are back to the high EGT problem again. So lets say to run 20 psi on 93 octane pump gas, we have to have like 15 degrees of timing so it doesnt get any knock. Lets say this results in a high EGT, EVEN with a rich air/fuel of 11.5:1. This situation would not make as much power as it could be. We need more timing at that pressure, but it would knock if we added timing. Basically, we have "run out" of necessary fuel octane for that boost pressure, for a "good" powerful tune.

For max torque to get transfered to the crankshaft, the combustion process needs to do the most work at around 14 degrees ATDC of crank rotation. This is how ignition timing comes into play. How much timing you need is dependant(but not exactly limited to) engine compression ratio, boost pressure, fuel octane, and to a smaller extent, air/fuel ratio. I've found that for 15 psi, 8.8:1 compression, 93 octane, S16G, we need around 18-19 degrees of timing through peak torque, then as rpm gets higher, adding 1 more degree or so up to redline. A/F on the safer rich side of around 11.5-11.8:1 This should keep EGTs in check, keep detonation at bay, and make some good power output.

It seems to me, that 15 psi on the S16G with 93 octane fuel, and 8.8:1 compression ratio, is getting really close to the limits of 93 octane fuel, for a *proper* tune. Not saying we cant run a bit more boost on 93, but A/F and timing will have to be taken away from where we can make more power if we had run a higher octane fuel. Also, a larger, more efficient turbo can possibly run a little bit more boost pressure for a given octane, mostly because they are more efficient at higher boost pressures, which results in lower intake temperatures(remember colder intake temps will also let you run more boost for a given octane) This is why the stock ECU works pretty well for 15 psi, when its doing ignition, as this is really close to where timing needs to be anyway. EGT's will be worse on this type of setup, at lower boost pressures, because the stock ECU is still putting out 17 degrees of timing, where we really need more timing. With a MAP sensor check valve(or FCD) connected, the stock ECU thinks anything over 0 psi is WOT, where it automatically puts timing at around 17 degrees advance. It has no idea of how much boost we are running. This situation is proven with the MS, because i've added like at least 5-8 degrees or so of timing from 0 psi to 5 psi, and i'll tell ya, it pulls so much better with that added timing at lower boost, and even at lower vac of 10-0 hg's. Remember that the stock ECU has timing maps made for 9.6:1 stock compression ratio, and 87 octane fuel. If you built a motor, you prob run 8.8:1 pistons, and 91-93 octane fuel. That ALONE means we need more timing THROUGHOUT the entire pressure/rpm band to make good power. Hopefully this makes sense...I tried to keep it as simple as possible, while there are still other variables to the tuning process for sure...It's really one big balancing act, and it's not as I once thought, just "tuning the air/fuel ratio to EGT's". It's just the one big problem of running boost on a engine(and ECU) that was not meant for it from the factory. This is what makes the Megasquirt(or any other fuel and ignition standalone) much, much superior in every which way, over the SFMU or 8 injector setups. There is def more power to be made over using those types of boosted fuel setups.

A standalone is clearly suprior, and that's why it's on the top of my priority list (right under a wideband), but in the meantime and for others don't you think it's possible to tune via EGT on the stock ECU, given as you can limit the variables?

For instance, someone with a stock ECU (no SAFC), unplugged or unused knock sensor, tells us their idle EGT, there peak dyno (or wideband) tuned EGT @ a given boost pressure @ a given IAT @ a given octane. You should be able to tune your fuel pretty damn good without a wideband.

In this concern a peak EGT is of no use for tuning without knowing their idle EGT (somewhere to start) which should be porportional to yours when you use their fuel settings at the important variables.

Originally posted by WickedESi
A standalone is clearly suprior, and that's why it's on the top of my priority list (right under a wideband), but in the meantime and for others don't you think it's possible to tune via EGT on the stock ECU, given as you can limit the variables? For instance, someone with a stock ECU (no SAFC), unplugged or unused knock sensor, tells us their idle EGT, there peak dyno (or wideband) tuned EGT @ a given boost pressure @ a given IAT @ a given octane. You should be able to tune your fuel pretty damn good without a wideband. In this concern a peak EGT is of no use for tuning without knowing their idle EGT (somewhere to start) which should be porportional to yours when you use their fuel settings at the important variables.

Well idle EGT is of really no importance though..This is why tuning the A/F to EGT alone is not the best way to do it..at all. Take my example for instance. 12.4:1 is a damn near perfect A/F for 10 psi, assuming we have the right amount of timing advance. Now if we run that same A/F on the stock ECU doing timing, the EGT's get really hot, really fast. So now we think we are running to lean, when all that is the problem is not enough timing advance. So we richen up the A/F to help the EGT issue, and we inevitably lose power. For examble, I had to run in the mid 11's for A/F in order to keep the EGT in check when using the stock ECU for ignition..Thats just way to rich for that boost level..Just an assumption, but you could gain 15-20 HP by leaning it out to the proper A/F and giving it the right amount of timing.

Originally posted by XtremeRS
Well idle EGT is of really no importance though..This is why tuning the A/F to EGT alone is not the best way to do it..at all. Take my example for instance. 12.4:1 is a damn near perfect A/F for 10 psi, assuming we have the right amount of timing advance. Now if we run that same A/F on the stock ECU doing timing, the EGT's get really hot, really fast. So now we think we are running to lean, when all that is the problem is not enough timing advance. So we richen up the A/F to help the EGT issue, and we inevitably lose power. For examble, I had to run in the mid 11's for A/F in order to keep the EGT in check when using the stock ECU for ignition..Thats just way to rich for that boost level..Just an assumption, but you could gain 15-20 HP by leaning it out to the proper A/F and giving it the right amount of timing.

Again, thats some interesting stuff. I had planned all along to have my megasquirt only control the fuel, since it still seems "pre-beta" stages with the ignition stuff. but after reading that it doesnt make sense to do so. I have the ability to adjust the timing to minimum with my Crane igntion, and in reference to a boost pressure, but it doesnt allow me to really "tune" the ignition to any extent. I guess I have no option but to dive head first into the megasquirt and let it do it all. I've read through all the posts in the Ms forum and it seems you all are still experiencing some problems with letting the MS do the ignition and idle etc.
Have you been able to resolve those issues?

lol

Originally posted by djtrickee
I have the ability to adjust the timing to minimum with my Crane igntion, and in reference to a boost pressure, but it doesnt allow me to really "tune" the ignition to any extent. I guess I have no option but to dive head first into the megasquirt and let it do it all. I've read through all the posts in the Ms forum and it seems you all are still experiencing some problems with letting the MS do the ignition and idle etc. Have you been able to resolve those issues?

Yeah, the Crane ignition box can only retard timing with boost, not add any. As for the MS doing ignition, it runs just fine up to 10-11 psi boost, but spark gets weak after that, and it can misfire. It seems to be a hit or miss issue though, as some guys have run over 20 psi without issue. I've talked with James at msefi.com, who does the major work on the code for the MS, and he has found fault in the code for spark dwell. Dwell is the time the ignition coil is charging, before the spark fires. From what i've found, and what he has found, wasted spark dwell has some bugs in it, although it still runs fine as far as timing is concerned. Timing advance seems to be dead on, to what the MS is saying it's at. The car idles fine really, can surge a bit at times, but not bad. I belive once the code is perfected, idle and spark intensity will get much better.

Originally posted by XtremeRS

Originally posted by djtrickee I have the ability to adjust the timing to minimum with my Crane igntion, and in reference to a boost pressure, but it doesnt allow me to really "tune" the ignition to any extent. I guess I have no option but to dive head first into the megasquirt and let it do it all. I've read through all the posts in the Ms forum and it seems you all are still experiencing some problems with letting the MS do the ignition and idle etc. Have you been able to resolve those issues?

Yeah, the Crane ignition box can only retard timing with boost, not add any. As for the MS doing ignition, it runs just fine up to 10-11 psi boost, but spark gets weak after that, and it can misfire. It seems to be a hit or miss issue though, as some guys have run over 20 psi without issue. I've talked with James at msefi.com, who does the major work on the code for the MS, and he has found fault in the code for spark dwell. Dwell is the time the ignition coil is charging, before the spark fires. From what i've found, and what he has found, wasted spark dwell has some bugs in it, although it still runs fine as far as timing is concerned. Timing advance seems to be dead on, to what the MS is saying it's at. The car idles fine really, can surge a bit at times, but not bad. I belive once the code is perfected, idle and spark intensity will get much better.

Well thats good news then. Keep us posted. Those threads in the Engine management section died down a while ago and I never heard back if you all had solved some of those issues.

Originally posted by XtremeRS

Originally posted by WickedESi A standalone is clearly suprior, and that's why it's on the top of my priority list (right under a wideband), but in the meantime and for others don't you think it's possible to tune via EGT on the stock ECU, given as you can limit the variables? For instance, someone with a stock ECU (no SAFC), unplugged or unused knock sensor, tells us their idle EGT, there peak dyno (or wideband) tuned EGT @ a given boost pressure @ a given IAT @ a given octane. You should be able to tune your fuel pretty damn good without a wideband. In this concern a peak EGT is of no use for tuning without knowing their idle EGT (somewhere to start) which should be porportional to yours when you use their fuel settings at the important variables.

Well idle EGT is of really no importance though..This is why tuning the A/F to EGT alone is not the best way to do it..at all. Take my example for instance. 12.4:1 is a damn near perfect A/F for 10 psi, assuming we have the right amount of timing advance. Now if we run that same A/F on the stock ECU doing timing, the EGT's get really hot, really fast. So now we think we are running to lean, when all that is the problem is not enough timing advance. So we richen up the A/F to help the EGT issue, and we inevitably lose power. For examble, I had to run in the mid 11's for A/F in order to keep the EGT in check when using the stock ECU for ignition..Thats just way to rich for that boost level..Just an assumption, but you could gain 15-20 HP by leaning it out to the proper A/F and giving it the right amount of timing.

My reference to the idle EGT is so that you can reference your EGT off someone elses, (e.g. someone elses EGT at idle might be 900*F and peaks at 1400*F, but your's might idle (due to a slightly different location of the probe) at 800*F meaning you'd want to tune to a 1300*F EGT using the same boost and timing. I'm sure the temp. isn't linear but it should be good enough to get things running nice.

i know this turned into a whole megasquirt discussion, but since you guys seem to really know what you are talking about, if fp isn't rising with either an fmu or an sfmu can that be an injector problem, b/c i think my fp isn't really rising and i can't check until sunday so i'm just goin nuts tryin to figure out what it can be

Originally posted by cs82685
i know this turned into a whole megasquirt discussion, but since you guys seem to really know what you are talking about, if fp isn't rising with either an fmu or an sfmu can that be an injector problem, b/c i think my fp isn't really rising and i can't check until sunday so i'm just goin nuts tryin to figure out what it can be

without a fuel press. guage what makes you think your pressure isnt rising?

i've got a mechanical one under the hood. when i first took it for a test i had my gf watching the gauge and she said it went to about 70-75, that's when i started this thread, i raised idle up to 50-55 and had my friend go for a drive with me and it stayed at about 60-65 until i shifted then it jumped up (not sure to what) but i had the fuel line twisted and pulled so i could get it under the hood. So this weekend i'm gonna take the hood off and have someone drive the car while i watch the gauge b/c i know exactly what to watch for. The sfmu is brand new and i checked the vac line going to it so i know that's not preventing air flow. so now i'm just tryin to figure out any other reason that could prevent fp from rising