Okay I've been researching ths topic and emailing people on here who have this mod to their turbo.

Anyway, since no one really seems to have any heat problems, I've decided to do this right for the first time.

1). My turbo is a HRC Super 16g that comes with regular hrc kits. Now, I want to get the best hose since I've emailed because I emailed Corbin (I think he is the right one) and he has regular non S/S hose and he has to replace them once a year... I'm thinking getting a hose like the one's that come with the HRC oil feed-line because the seem really durable and with stands the turbo's heat very well. However, where can I get one the size big enough to accomodate the coolant lines because I want new lines I am installing to be the same size.

2). Just incase I can't find those high quality hose line that's is like the hrc oil feed line, then I'll just use S/S hoses soo from Jegs.com.

3). So can anyone give some info on the sizes I need. What's the size of the stock coolant lines, and the size of the HRC water channels and the AN fittings I need.

I know this is a lot of information but any help is greatly appreciated. I think those are the issues I've thought of soo thanks!

4). Edit: I knew I'd forget. I forgot who it was I PMed but he actually welded his AN fittings to make a leak proof connections. Well, I don't have access to a welder, so do you think the AN fittins will hold up and not leak without welding? Is coolant more able to penetrate connections then oil or fuel because I have AN fittings on my fuel setup and it's held up well.

5). Also, are A/N fittings pretty much indestructible and heat proof because again, I want to spend money to get a system together that's reliable and I don't have to worry of material dedegradation as a consequence to heat.

Thanks Again!

MMMMM...I surprised that Corbin has had that many issues. I just used regular heater hose and it's fine after 2 years....in fact I'm gonna use them on my new set up, they are still nice and pliable with no signs up stress :shrug.

but I know what you mean by the stainless set up...that's the sickness...I wish I could justify the cost.

pm me your email and i'll send you some pictures of a really nice setup. the fittings on the turbo are 1/4"npt. you can cut the water hard lines, put sleeves over them, flare the ends, and put an fittings directly on the lines without welding. i want to say that the size fittings you would need are -10an. i lost the page where i got the pictures from. if someone wants to re-post them on here pm me and i'll send them to you.

I have some pics of various peoples setup and they look nice. I'll post them if anyone is interested.

edit:

what's the advantage of SS lines? with brake lines you use SS to get rid of flex in the lines associated with the rubber ones. the drawback is that SS lines are less durable than rubber ones because the teflon inside breaks down faster and you hafta replace them more often. so for coolant/oil why do people want SS lines besides the fact that they look neat? i don't think flex in the lines is a major concern like when it comes to braking...

sorry if i'm missing something obvious :shrug

Originally posted by MCubed45
what's the advantage of SS lines? with brake lines you use SS to get rid of flex in the lines associated with the rubber ones. the drawback is that SS lines are less durable than rubber ones because the teflon inside breaks down faster and you hafta replace them more often. so for coolant/oil why do people want SS lines besides the fact that they look neat? i don't think flex in the lines is a major concern like when it comes to braking... sorry if i'm missing something obvious :shrug

I think I may have used the wrong terms to describe SS lines. What I mean is Stainless steel braided hoses, ie like that pic above? Does the brake down also apply to ss braided hoses?

I also didn't know that S/S lines brake down faster? Is that with just the brake lines or does that included steal braided hoses?

I don't think you would have to worry about the liner breaking down with coolant.

wear and heat resistance would be the advantages...besides looks of course. :thumbsup

Originally posted by MCubed45
what's the advantage of SS lines? with brake lines you use SS to get rid of flex in the lines associated with the rubber ones. the drawback is that SS lines are less durable than rubber ones because the teflon inside breaks down faster and you hafta replace them more often. so for coolant/oil why do people want SS lines besides the fact that they look neat? i don't think flex in the lines is a major concern like when it comes to braking... sorry if i'm missing something obvious :shrug

Hmmm... I've never heard about teflon braking down faster than rubber? Where did you hear this?

As for the rest of the hoses braided stainless lines are superior in every way except cost. Sizes above -3 don't have teflon in them. They wouldn't use them for every hose in aircraft if they degraded faster than rubber (I've actually never heard of them being replaced in aircraft unless a leak is found).

I have several feet of stainless hose lying around that I don't know much about. I think it is hydraulic line but I'm not too sure. I will try and measure the I.D. and take a couple of pics.

is -6an big enough?

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
www.cnnmotorsports.com

Originally posted by extreme97nt
is -6an big enough? best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction) www.cnnmotorsports.com

Hey man, this is the measurements given to me by willmayo:

"I'm 99% sure that the hard lines take -10 fittings. And I'm 100% sure that
the turbo is a 1/4npt fitting. Assuming the hard lines are -10's (99% sure
again), this is how I'd set it up...

2 -10an sleeves, nuts
2 -10an to -6an union reducers
4 -6an 90degree hose ends
3-4 feet -6an ss hose
2 1/4npt to -6an union reducers"

Hope that helps you and make sure to tell us about your results.

Originally posted by extreme97nt
is -6an big enough?

maybe, maybe not. assuming the stock hard lines are -10, -6 would be alot smaller and maybe restrict the flow of water too much. now that i think about it, when i go through with this i'm going to use -8 (i have about 3ft of both -6 and -8 sittin in my garage).


then again... if the turbo's water ports are 1/4npt... thats going to be an even bigger restriction, so i really dont know what the best size would be to use.


EDIT: the bitch to a setup like this (an fittings, ss hose) is having to flare those hard lines. in order to use the sleeves/nuts on the hardlines you need a 37 degree flare. flaring tools that do 37 degrees are expensive and hard to come by. i have one i got from summit for ~35$ but the problem is that it wont flare any piping over i think 1/2" inch. I forget who but i'm pretty sure someone makes a fitting that doesnt require you to flare the hose, even if they're 35$-45$ a piece (no idea what they actually cost), thats what i'd do.

I might use -8an lines to the heater core and back eliminate the hard line all together.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
www.cnnmotorsports.com

Hmm I'm gonna email some people and see what they have to say on the sizing issues. I'll let you all know.

Just so you guys know, my GT CHRA has a -6 water inlet/outlet. The kit that ATP sells for GT CHRA's has CNC'd aluminum -6 banjo's for use w/ -6 line. You could use a reducer and go higher than that for the lines going to it, but it's only going to flow through a -6 hole in the end. It should be plenty of water as that's what the turbo manufacturer and ATP (one of the highly respected race turbo companies) recommend.

The reason the heater pipes are so big is so that you can heat the entire cabin through a fan blowing through the heater core as quick as possible.

Originally posted by WickedESi
Just so you guys know, my GT CHRA has a -6 water inlet/outlet. The kit that ATP sells for GT CHRA's has CNC'd aluminum -6 banjo's for use w/ -6 line. You could use a reducer and go higher than that for the lines going to it, but it's only going to flow through a -6 hole in the end. It should be plenty of water as that's what the turbo manufacturer and ATP (one of the highly respected race turbo companies) recommend. The reason the heater pipes are so big is so that you can heat the entire cabin through a fan blowing through the heater core as quick as possible.

and to clarify, the 1/4"npt is for the hahn 16g

just a thought on that picture....the coolant wouldnt flow through that pipe until you turn your heat on... one of those metal lines flows to the heater core, and the other one out of it...with a valve inbetween....so the turbo really wouldnt be cooled by stagnet water... am i missing something else?
doug

oh, the way i think would work is t"ing off of the pipe by the radiator cap, then t where you have it....then it would be a complete cycle
doug

Well I decided who needs heat in a race car so I ripped out all my fans, heatercore and a/c thing. Weight reduction. I am now running -06an line form the thermosthat to the lower radiator pipe. Good enough for me.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
www.cnnmotorsports.com

Water flows through the heater core all the time. There isn't a shutoff valve. What turns the heat off on the inside of the car are doors that close off the air coming through the heater core. Here are some pics of my setup.




I ran -8 AN line from the thermostat housing to the hard line then split the hard line after the heater core into -6 AN and -8 AN lines. I also put in a ball valve in the -8 AN line so that I can control the flow through the heater core, because I was worried about the heater not working efficient in the cold weather because of the small ports in the turbo not letting the water as much. So in the winter I can open the valve to let more water flow throught the heater core if needed.

On the hards line I welded AN fittings and pipe threads to be able to hook the lines to.

very nice setup

is water cooling necessary? I just run an oil cooler.

this is what I'm running on my turbo 280Z right now hehe RX7 front mount oil cooler :P

That is the largest oil cooler I have ever seen...

Reasons You Should Water Cool Your Turbo
- You like to boost more than a few seconds at a time
- You care how long your turbo lasts
- Better turbo efficiency
- Turbo timers become pointless
- You don't like coked oil ruining not only your turbo, but bearings in the rest of your engine

I am running water cooling because my turbo is a ball bearing and it requires very little oil. Without alot of oil flow through the turbo, there is no other way to keep it cool.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
www.cnnmotorsports.com

Originally posted by WickedESi
That is the largest oil cooler I have ever seen... Reasons You Should Water Cool Your Turbo - You like to boost more than a few seconds at a time - You care how long your turbo lasts - Better turbo efficiency - Turbo timers become pointless - You don't like coked oil ruining not only your turbo, but bearings in the rest of your engine

You realize that everything you listed is pretty much a myth, With the advances in modern day oil, water cooling isnt much of a neccesity except with certain turbos(Garrett GT turbos love water) and certain situations(roadracing for very long periods of time.)

is it posibble to just flare the water hard tube and just use a hose end with a npt fitting? Instead of using nuts and sleeves?