Well,

The whole project is almost done just have a couple things to finish up.








See how close the compressor housing is to the starter! Now you guys see why the equal length is not possible. This as close as it gets with a big turbo.






Whats left to be done:

Clean up wiring from AEM EMS install and some of welds
New larger UICP with Tial BOV, I'm keeping the Hahn FMIC for now
Battery relocation kit to allow for smoother bends on the UICP
Take off the stupid P/S pump again
Custom Heat shield for starter
Custom 4" air intake
Coat the Manifold/Downpipe/Waterpipe with Cerramchrome
Tuning

I don't know what the price will be on the custom TorqueFreaks manifold but I should find out soon. Same materials as Full-Race and it has a merge collector with equal sections...

I want that setup!I so jealous :bowdown

Holy tap-dancing Christ, that turbo is fuckin huge! I could almost fornicate with that thing (almost)!!

That's beautiful.

Thanks Guys!

I forgot to mentioned that the water lines for the BB turbo still have to be done. I was thinking about using the same heater core lines for coolant like what Wicked did for his GT-28R (nice setup btw!). But, we were thinking that you could run the coolant feed line from the thermostat housing and use the lower radiator hose connection as the drain. Has anybody tried this?

It seems like a shorter route and you don't have to hack up the water pipe above the exhaust manifold. I know mine looks like crap but it will be coated along with the manifold and downpipe.

That's awesome.

When do you think traction will kick in? lol ;-)

Originally posted by 420a-Tnthewerks
That's awesome. When do you think traction will kick in? lol ;-)

Never,

I hoping my ERT retro-fit, Slicks, and stage 5 (I still need to buy them) :( driveshafts will do the trick. I wonder what will break first?

Originally posted by SilverBullet20g
Thanks Guys! I forgot to mentioned that the water lines for the BB turbo still have to be done. I was thinking about using the same heater core lines for coolant like what Wicked did for his GT-28R (nice setup btw!). But, we were thinking that you could run the coolant feed line from the thermostat housing and use the lower radiator hose connection as the drain. Has anybody tried this? It seems like a shorter route and you don't have to hack up the water pipe above the exhaust manifold. I know mine looks like crap but it will be coated along with the manifold and downpipe.

I orginally wanted to come directly from the thermostat housing, but welding cast aluminum is about as hard as it gets. This was before I found out you could pull the nipple out and tap it to do a NPT to barb or AN fitting. It would probably be fine but I wouldn't want to use rubber lines that close to the manifold.

BTW... I didn't realize that turbo was THAT big! omg! I can't wait to see some track times!

What Dino said...! What is the retail on one of those...manifold?

Looks awsome man! Keep up the good work. Dont you think that turbo is a little over kill though??

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
www.cnnmotorsports.com

For water, use a 90 on the thermostat and a 90 to the heater line, take advantage of that 6" gap between the housing and the hardline, coolant flows through there just the same. You don't want to add an even bigger route for coolant to bypass the radiator by opening a second path through the turbo, just use the one that is already there for the heater core... or, easier, ditch the hardlines and the heater, and use the existing heater core feed and return locations.

Very nice setup man. What radiator and fans did you go with btw? Good luck keeping this thing planted, the 3065 is an fn beast and will make all the hp that you want it to. Very nicely done.

Lookin good. Can't wait to see some numbers. Is the AEM EMS universal? How much did you pay for it?

wow, threads like this makes me want to keep my car and build it up, nice job man :thumbsup :thumbsup

Originally posted by Scandelous
Lookin good. Can't wait to see some numbers. Is the AEM EMS universal? How much did you pay for it?

mutherfuckin word to that, iv been wanting the aem ems for a while now...

Originally posted by MR BLUNT 2gnt
Very nice setup man. What radiator and fans did you go with btw?

Thanks, It's been a long long time! Fluidyne with the FAL fans for the factory turbo eclipse. A little modification with the dremel and they work great!

Good luck man!!!! :thumbsup


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.7 @ 87.9mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

looks great man :D that is a HUGE turbo

EGT probe + downpipe = confusion

looks tight though }(

Originally posted by extreme97nt
Dont you think that turbo is a little over kill though??

NO!!!
If you're going to put in the time and effort, might as well make it fast.

congrats to the hands involved in that operation. It will be an animal.

The AEM is going to be quite tricky. From previous posts I know you have a handle on the wiring... used an Accord harness. But after looking into adding one of these myself, I have found there may be a harness from Chrysler used on Vipers from 96-2002 that could work.

Keep it up!


--------------------------------------
know me as santiago
boosted 420a and ej2o..(my 2liter v8 eaters)

Many 4G63 cars run a FP3065 so why not. It will not be overkill and it is one badass turbo.

However it is extremely close to alot of parts and hopefully extreme heat will not be an issue.

Nice! I've been waiting on some pics. What kind of clutch will you be using? That thing will have to be beefy as hell. 3 in. exhaust, or will you get something bigger? What size injectors? You had like 780's didn't you? What cams? And have you thought about upping the compression to get that thing to spool faster? Not much but maybe like 9.5:1, I assume you are at 8.8:1. Sorry for all the questions.

Originally posted by thedawg

Originally posted by extreme97nt Dont you think that turbo is a little over kill though??

NO!!! If you're going to put in the time and effort, might as well make it fast.

Are you serious? Do you think he will some how be able to get traction with fwd on a street car making 650hp? I just think that it is going to take a while to spool. A smaller turbo would be more practical for his goals. Just my opinion though. I am running a fp3052 it is efficent to 550hp and I am hopeing to hit max boost under 3k rpms with the 2.5L setup. Well have to run them when were both done ;) BTW looks great!



best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
www.cnnmotorsports.com

Originally posted by extreme97nt
Do you think he will some how be able to get traction with fwd on a street car making 650hp?

I don't know why people don't understand that when you drive a high horsepower car you can't just mash the the throttle to wide open. You must modulate it... You only apply throttle and switch gears to the point right below breaking the tires loose, untill you're at wide open. There is no such thing as unable to get traction.

Originally posted by WickedESi

Originally posted by extreme97nt Do you think he will some how be able to get traction with fwd on a street car making 650hp?

I don't know why people don't understand that when you drive a high horsepower car you can't just mash the the throttle to wide open. You must modulate it... You only apply throttle and switch gears to the point right below breaking the tires loose, untill you're at wide open. There is no such thing as unable to get traction.

Not to start an arguement but your wrong. There is a point where the tires will just break loose, even if you dont mash on the gas. And if your keeping the power below that you will not be utalizing the full power of the motor. 650hp is not going to be tamed by street tires. Especially on a front wheel drive car. But whatever. I will be finding out soon enough.



best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
www.cnnmotorsports.com

Originally posted by extreme97nt

Originally posted by WickedESi

Originally posted by extreme97nt Do you think he will some how be able to get traction with fwd on a street car making 650hp?

I don't know why people don't understand that when you drive a high horsepower car you can't just mash the the throttle to wide open. You must modulate it... You only apply throttle and switch gears to the point right below breaking the tires loose, untill you're at wide open. There is no such thing as unable to get traction.

Not to start an arguement but your wrong. There is a point where the tires will just break loose, even if you dont mash on the gas. And if your keeping the power below that you will not be utalizing the full power of the motor. 650hp is not going to be tamed by street tires.

actually, he's pretty spot on as far as im concerned.

losing traction is all about lb/ft of torque. with the 2.5L i was burning out 3rd on a hard shift from 2nd with just regrinds. NON TURBO. trust me bro, turbo only makes it 500x worse for low end traction.

as soon as u get your motor in and running, you'll understand completely that you now have just lost about 60% throttle in first (unless you just wanna roast em off...) and most of 2nd. 3rd gear i kept traction in the higher rpm's but only because i was moving pretty fast already.

no way in hell you can lay down 650hp before about 90mph anyway without having those tires smoking to hell

speaking from experience...but you MUST control the throttle if you actually want to go anywhere

edit: oh, and as far as the 3065 on a 2 liter is concerned....all i gotta say is FUCKYEA...neon gears + 25psi in 4th = L8

Just to throw my 2 cents in about the traction. I know that, if Im getting on it in the mid and upper rpm's, sometimes I will start spinning the tires even doing like 45mph. This isnt even dumping the clutch in shifts, it just starts to break loose.

Looks pretty good. That turbo must be heavy! I hope you have some kind of support structure on the downpipe to take some of the stress off of the exhaust manifold.

Originally posted by ner947
Looks pretty good. That turbo must be heavy! I hope you have some kind of support structure on the downpipe to take some of the stress off of the exhaust manifold.

The turbo is actually lighter than most turbos because of the stainless housing. Hard to believe huh!

FP3065=15lbs
20G=17lbs
GT-30R=20lbs
GT-35R=22lbs

Originally posted by turbo8u
EGT probe + downpipe = confusion looks tight though }(

Yeah, I know the temp will be off but I'm also using a wideband. I'm scared to have that probe break off and go flying into the $900 GT CHRA...ching chang boom!

Originally posted by L2RTSiAWD
Many 4G63 cars run a FP3065 so why not. It will not be overkill and it is one badass turbo. However it is extremely close to alot of parts and hopefully extreme heat will not be an issue.

Thanks guys! As for the heat, the starter is getting a custom metal heat shield so the solenoid doesn't get fried. The manifold and downpipe are getting the cerrmachrome stuff from finishlinecoatings to help out as well. I have a CF EVO hood that I want put on it but I'm afarid that it's going to melt even though it has that vent in it.

Originally posted by WIDECLIPSE
Nice! I've been waiting on some pics. What kind of clutch will you be using? That thing will have to be beefy as hell. 3 in. exhaust, or will you get something bigger? What size injectors? You had like 780's didn't you? What cams? And have you thought about upping the compression to get that thing to spool faster? Not much but maybe like 9.5:1, I assume you are at 8.8:1. Sorry for all the questions.

*3" turbo back with test pipe
*800cc injectors for now
*Crappy regrind cams, tested by the machine shop though. I still have my stockers, so if they turn out bad they are going back in.
*A little shot of the juice to help spool it to
*Same JE setup that everybody else has. Higher compression would be fun, but if going to rebuild again I want a 2.4

Originally posted by SilverBullet20g if going to rebuild again I want a 2.4

yea, definately }(


edit: oh, and from what ive seen...the egt on the downpipe is about ~400* off from the normal runner temps. just food for thought, let me know what the loss is for you.

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by SilverBullet20g if going to rebuild again I want a 2.4

yea, definately }( edit: oh, and from what ive seen...the egt on the downpipe is about ~400* off from the normal runner temps. just food for thought, let me know what the loss is for you.

I'd like to see someone measure this tempature difference sometime... I see so many people throw around numbers like "300 degrees F" or "400 degrees F" I have a hunch that the difference is very dependent on turbine A/R.

Originally posted by SilverBullet20g

Originally posted by ner947 Looks pretty good. That turbo must be heavy! I hope you have some kind of support structure on the downpipe to take some of the stress off of the exhaust manifold.

The turbo is actually lighter than most turbos because of the stainless housing. Hard to believe huh!

FP3065=15lbs
20G=17lbs
GT-30R=20lbs
GT-35R=22lbs

No shit hunh... I learn something new every day.

Originally posted by SilverBullet20g

Originally posted by turbo8u EGT probe + downpipe = confusion looks tight though }(

Yeah, I know the temp will be off but I'm also using a wideband. I'm scared to have that probe break off and go flying into the $900 GT CHRA...ching chang boom!

I didn't want to install mine ahead of the turbo for the exact same reason, but somehow I let these guys talk me into it :).

Originally posted by SilverBullet20g
Yeah, I know the temp will be off but I'm also using a wideband. I'm scared to have that probe break off and go flying into the $900 GT CHRA...ching chang boom!

Not physically possible... it might tear up the turbine wheel resulting in a rebuilt, wheel replacement and rebalance... but kill a CHRA? Nah. Not unless you know it's failed and keep going.

Plus 99% of the 4G guys run the probe in the exhaust manifold and I can't remember the last time in 3 plus years on DSMtuners I saw someone post that their EGT probe broke off and ate their turbo.

i wonder if the wheel would even be damaged that badly, i mean its going so fast the egt probe would just be like ground up into dust and blown through, wouldnt it?
anybody wanna try this out and get a vid? lol

If you were to apply an extreme force (from the probe binding the wheel) on one side of the turbine putting an uneven load on the shaft it could bend and mar the walls in the CHRA. BTW, what does CHRA stand for?

Originally posted by 97whitESi
i wonder if the wheel would even be damaged that badly, i mean its going so fast the egt probe would just be like ground up into dust and blown through, wouldnt it? anybody wanna try this out and get a vid? lol

It's not a carrot in a garbage disposal....

Originally posted by WickedESi
BTW, what does CHRA stand for?

Center Housing Rotating Assembly