FIrst off sorry for all the questions i think i read every post on the missing link and a lot on the other things i'm asking about here but i'm still not sure about a few things, any help would be appreciated, TIA

btw it’s a star stage 1 with 1g smic that I’m gonna put together custom piping for, and most of the stuff originally came from eklypz420

For the FMU how can I tell what disk is installed its used and the kits kind of not accessible now so I don’t even remember if it came with different disks or just the one that’s already in? (I’ve read I should use the 12:1 I think)

For a FP gauge, do I need one that goes over 100psi and if so where can I get a mechanical one that won’t cost an arm and a leg?

Missing Link-My cars a 96 so I’m currently not sure what fuel system or ecu I have, I’ve heard you need one if your operating obd-2 type ecu, what’s the easiest way to check this? Should I get the missing link or just use whatever came with the kit

Also would anyone recommend new injectors in addition to upgraded fuel pump (99 gsx pump) and FMU if so what size?

oh yeah just double checkin, pyrometer is same as egt w/probe right?



List of stuff needed so far:
EGT
A/F
FP
gaskets
intercooler piping
ML (maybe)
?return fuel line for fmu?
anything else?

once again i apologize for my dumbness

I have a mechanical 160psi fuel gauge for sale from an HRC kit, $40 shipped.

arite figured out the pyrometer thing doin more searching, i might be interested in that gauge i'll let you know

anyone with an answer to any of these wanna help out? you can give me an answer and then yell at me for being dumb or not searching enough if you want

You can tell if you have the late 96+ fuel system by looking at the fuel rail. You will have your fpr at the end (left hand side if looking at your engine back from the front) and it will have a return line already back to the tank.
If so, you have the early fuel system. If you do not and have the fpr in the back then:
1. Take out the schrader valve from the test port on the fuel rail.
2. connect a -4AN fitting and run a line to the feed port on your fmu.
3. Run a return line from the return port on the fmu back to the tank.

Either get a fcd voltage clamp for your map sensor or the missing link. I prefer the missing link, but it can go both ways. This will make it so that your ecu wont see boost and freak out (causing fuel cut)

edit: I would get a walbro pump, unless you already have the gsx pump installed. If your talking about getting an adjustable fpr then i would ditch the fmu and get a sfmu. I ALWAYS ran too rich with the 12:1 disk in the fmu and it would cause my car to bogg. EVERYTIME it needed adjustment, but it works for some people i guess without adjustments... thats why the sfmu kicks so much ass. You are able to adjust rise rates, static and idle fp's. Hit me up on aim if you need anymore help.

Nick
97RS

thanks a lot that's the kinda answer i was lookin for

Originally posted by thedawg
I have a mechanical 160psi fuel gauge for sale from an HRC kit, $40

only HRC would sell a fuel pressure gauge that read 160 fucking psi :rolleyes...

about how to tell what disc you have in your FMU...a regulated vac/boost source would work great for testing purposes. just hook it up with the engine running and see what the fuel pressure does (you'll need a working fp gauge for this)

a pyrometer is the same thing as a EGT, yea

edit: personally I recommend larger injectors though. how many psi of boost do you plan on putting into ol betsy?

thanks for the help only plannin on runnin about 5-7 psi until i can afford a rebuild or a second car, what injectors do you recommend and where can i get them? thanks again

You can stay with stock injectors at 5-7 psi.

Yeah, you can with the stock ones if you want at that PSI ... if you want you could go to the 30lb injectors - that would be about the next step up. You can pick up sets of them almost anywhere. Summit Racing, HRC, even in the F/S section on here sometimes or DSM trader.

Arite everyone last two questions
Just checking-missing link will replace the need for the map sensor bypass that comes with the star kit correct?
And second i don't want one of the blinky light a/f gauges do i need one that goes over 1v or is that fine?
Thanks to everyone

Ya the missing link takes care of the voltage clamp from star.

And get a a/f with digital readout not just blinky lights. so you can tell exactly whats up...

Nick
97RS

You might want to look into apexi's turbo timer. I have it and its pretty nice. It gives a digital readout for theoretica AFR, o2 sensor voltage, battery voltage, and how much time you want it to idle for. Also, its tiny.