Hey people, I roam these forums alot to find answers for my cars problem to the best of my ability. I try to use the search function and have found quite a few solutions to the problems I had after I recently installed my new turbo kit. However the problems I have now I can't find a solution to as of yet. Here are my specs.

1999 Eclipse RS Power nothing.
Rebuilt bottem end (Je pistons 8:6, Crower rods)

Custom kit put together consisting of:

T25 internally wastegated - Yea i know, cute little piece of shit will be upgraded soon, just wanted to get boosted first and was cost efficient at the time.

Vortech sfmu
Walbro HP Intank Pump
Stock Injectors
Injector control unit with Injector interface block with 2 denso injectors 30lbs. Got this setup from a company called Turbo specialties.

GAUGES:
Oil pressure
Boost
Air/fuel

Parts not installed yet OBX Fuel rail, 550 injectors.

PROBLEMS:

Ok when I drive the car now normally with no boost, she drives fine. When I get on her to get boost, the car bucks, jerks, hesitates (you name it) really rough and throws a CEL. First thing I figured was there was something wrong with my fuel setup. Maybe car was suffering from fuel cut. The Air/Fuel gauge at idle reads the car is running lean. The CEL code I got was Lean Fuel mixture at Bank 1. I messed around with the SFMU and found out I was at 20psi WOT, and maxed the disk, spring out and still only getting 42 psi WOT, when I should be at around 47-50 ? Car still hesitating after getting up to 42psi, not as bad though but still.

Thats my main problem. The other problem I got was my turbo is supposed to be internally wasted gated at 6psi, but I'm getting 20!!! psi. Do I need to change my actuator? I have no boost controller, I guess I should invest in one, but could that be the problem?


Should I install the 550 injectors to help that fuel pressure get up there?

What type of MAP "clamp" do you have?


Brian

I tried using the Missing link for the map sensor and the car bucked and hesitated even harder. I was told by a mechanic that the missing link though it normally should work with our cars, but because of my turbo setup it was holding too much pressure and wouldn't work for my setup. He was basically speaking a foreign language to me, but I took his word for it because he is pretty reputable. As far as MAP clamp, I have no idea. Should I have one? What should I look for?

you should have 47psi at idle, not at WOT.

Which disk and which spring are in the S-FMU? Can you describe the exact routing of your fuel lines from the pump to the return at the tank? Exactly where in the fuel line is your pressure gauge mounted?

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I am going to take pics right now of engine bay to make things a little clear, and corbin I will give you the details of the fuel line routing also.

Originally posted by Goneallin
I tried using the Missing link for the map sensor and the car bucked and hesitated even harder. I was told by a mechanic that the missing link though it normally should work with our cars, but because of my turbo setup it was holding too much pressure and wouldn't work for my setup. He was basically speaking a foreign language to me, but I took his word for it because he is pretty reputable. As far as MAP clamp, I have no idea. Should I have one? What should I look for?

Well, the missing link is basically a MAP clamp, it just limits what the sensor sees. My suspicion lies with that. Sometimes they get dirty and you have to clean them (I don't know how to, I don't have one).

Wait, I just read your post again. You didn't have one, then you put one on and it bucked harder? Hmmmmmm, I wonder if the MAP sensor itself is the problem. It's not unheard of. I would put another one in, clean the missing link, put that on and see what happens.

Brian

Originally posted by Goneallin
Hey people, I roam these forums alot to find answers for my cars problem to the best of my ability. I try to use the search function and have found quite a few solutions to the problems I had after I recently installed my new turbo kit. However the problems I have now I can't find a solution to as of yet. Here are my specs. 1999 Eclipse RS Power nothing. Rebuilt bottem end (Je pistons 8:6, Crower rods) Custom kit put together consisting of: T25 internally wastegated - Yea i know, cute little piece of shit will be upgraded soon, just wanted to get boosted first and was cost efficient at the time. Vortech sfmu Walbro HP Intank Pump Stock Injectors Injector control unit with Injector interface block with 2 denso injectors 30lbs. Got this setup from a company called Turbo specialties. GAUGES: Oil pressure Boost Air/fuel Parts not installed yet OBX Fuel rail, 550 injectors. PROBLEMS: Ok when I drive the car now normally with no boost, she drives fine. When I get on her to get boost, the car bucks, jerks, hesitates (you name it) really rough and throws a CEL. First thing I figured was there was something wrong with my fuel setup. Maybe car was suffering from fuel cut. The Air/Fuel gauge at idle reads the car is running lean. The CEL code I got was Lean Fuel mixture at Bank 1. I messed around with the SFMU and found out I was at 20psi WOT, and maxed the disk, spring out and still only getting 42 psi WOT, when I should be at around 47-50 ? Car still hesitating after getting up to 42psi, not as bad though but still. Thats my main problem. The other problem I got was my turbo is supposed to be internally wasted gated at 6psi, but I'm getting 20!!! psi. Do I need to change my actuator? I have no boost controller, I guess I should invest in one, but could that be the problem? Should I install the 550 injectors to help that fuel pressure get up there?

if its the T-25 from the 2nd gen dsm's, the wastegate is set at 13 psi, not 6. you can adjust it tho buy cutting the rod, putting a washer, spring, washer, and then threading the rod and putting a bolt on to hold the spring on. thats just the general idea of it tho

definetly let us know your fuel set up and how you routed the lines. it does not seem like you have a fuel pressure gauge.. how did you figure out your fuel pressure at WOT???

"Injector control unit with Injector interface block with 2 denso injectors 30lbs. Got this setup from a company called Turbo specialties."

How about that special setup maybe causing the problem. Have you tried running without the 2 extra injectors and see if the sfmu is doing its job. Just make sure you run less boost with just the stock 4 injectors.

Ok Here are pics of the engine. There not great, but I hope yall get the idea. I took a picture of the sfmu, injector interface block located between the battery and the valve cover and the various line connections. The fuel line is routed as such. Line goes from the rail to the regulator, from the regulator to the Tank. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge mounted at all, my mechanic tested the pressure with his own gauge. I guess I should invest in one of those along with a wideband. The injector control unit reads 18Hg at idle if that helps any. I notice also when I let up off the throttle and clutch, and come to a slow stop on occassion it feels like its ready to shut off. Like its starving for fuel. I also smell gas, but no visible signs of leaks outside the car whatsoever. The exhaust is smelling kind of funny too, spitting out some white smoke, not much but in idle you can see the white smoke floating around after a good while sitting in idle. I have no cat so I am use to some smoke coming from exhaust, but now it has a funny burning smell, not oil burning though. Just some sort of other burning smell. No smoke from the engine compartment at all. Could my o2 sensor be bad and causing the car to jerk? I will definetly go out to the dealership and get a new map sensor and see if that solves the problem tomorrow.











Here is a shot of the 2 injectors on the injector interface block.

Forgot to mention I have an MSD DIS2 ignition.

Personally, I would disconnect the secondary injector controller and MSD to eliminate some possible interactions. Neither are necessary at 6 psi of boost. Next, you need to find a fuel pressure gauge and mount it on the S-FMU inlet. You can mount a $20 gauge on the end of 2' of hose and tape it to the windsheild. You need to watch the fuel pressure as you drive. The fuel pressure changes with intake manifold pressure, not throttle position. You really need to be driving to test it. You should also have an EGT gauge. I wouldn't suggest that anyone boost without it. I'm not convinced that you have the fuel system set up right. A turbo fuel system is usually set up like this:



On a '96+ car, the stock fuel system incorporates a fuel pressure regulator (not referenced off the intake manifold) near the gas tank. That feeds a fuel line that runs up to the inlet of the fuel rail. There is no stock return line back to the gas tank. When installing a turbo kit, you often modify the stock fuel pressure regulator to essentially bypass it. You can also remove it altogether. There will still be a fuel line that runs up to the inlet of the fuel rail. Since there is no return line, you remove the schrader valve from the fuel rail test port and hook a return fuel line up there. That return fuel line runs to the inlet of the S-FMU. This is where you would tee in the fuel pressure gauge. From the S-FMU outlet, the return fuel line continues on to the return on the fuel tank (near the pump). Since the test port on the fuel rail is used for the return line, there is no convenient place for a mechanic to hook up a fuel pressure gauge. I wonder where he hooked it up? For 6 psi of boost, you can get away with an S-FMU, stock injectors, and Walbro 255 HP fuel pump. The S-FMU should have the short, dark colored spring and the 2.72" diameter disk installed. Verify all of this before attempting to boost again. Don't forget that you can feather the throttle to boost slowly. You can creep up to 1 psi, 2 psi, etc and watch the gauges.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

could not have said it better myself... there is a write up in the mods section on how to set up a fuel supply and return system. might help you get some further ideas.
but as corbin said at 6 or 7 psi there is no need for the extra 2 injectors.

you have been extremely helpful corbin, I will check for everything you said tomorrow afternoon when I get back from work. I know the stock regulator was bypassed, but I am not sure about the the sfmu disk and spring that I currently have in there. Also would it be wise for me to get an s-afc as I see that seems to be a basic tool used with turbo applications to help tune fuel pressure at idle. Once again, thanks for taking the time to give that explanation, and it will come in handy tomorrow.