Mods forgive me if this is not where this post belongs, please feel free to post it where it is most appropriate

Just got my car dynoed today and I am a little upset and was hoping you guys can help me out with some basic tuning. I have,

95 GS
Stage 2 HRC with S16G running 7psi daily
Vortech SFMU
30# Accel injectors
NGK plugs

1st run was 153.46 HP and 181.12 Max torque
2nd run, 154.05 & 171.84
3rd run, 158.16 & 174.26

Now we all now with a stage 2 this should not be like this.

A/F was pretty consistant. on all 3 runs I an right under 14v (very lean) then at about 4500 - 5000 RPM's it drops to 12v and slowly decreases to 10v til I hit 6500.

My FP is set at 28-29psi and rises appropriately under boost. What http://www.imagestation.com/mypictures/inbox/view.html?album_id=2131623952&id=4102651508&url=http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid164/p079ffff533fc218995a8b07d87f07615/f4897e74.jpg&caption=dyno

was this at 7 psi? And are you on a built bottem end?

that seems a little low
at 7.5 psi i put down 222hp and 219 torque
what all internals do you have

Originally posted by baxsom
that seems a little low at 7.5 psi i put down 222hp and 219 torque what all internals do you have

oh that is very low, Apparently I need a lot more tuning than I thought and with JE pistons, eagle rods and 5 angle valve job you can see why I am concerned with it all. From what my guess is I know I am not getting enough fuel on the lower end, there fore I am running lean til I hit 4500. no matter what I do though with the mechanical tuning on the SFMU I cant seem to get it right.

Upgrading your motor to forged internals will NOT give you more hp. Actually, it will give you less HP.

If you have a stock motor running 7lbs of boost and a built motor with lower compression running 7lbs of boost, you will see that the built motor has less HP. The built motor only allows you to turn up the boost to where the stock motor can't.

Also.. if youre running lean, you will actually show more whp to a point, then boom.

Originally posted by siueclipse
Upgrading your motor to forged internals will NOT give you more hp. Actually, it will give you less HP. If you have a stock motor running 7lbs of boost and a built motor with lower compression running 7lbs of boost, you will see that the built motor has less HP. The built motor only allows you to turn up the boost to where the stock motor can't. Also.. if youre running lean, you will actually show more whp to a point, then boom.

I agree. Thats not what this is about though. With my setup I should be somewhere in the 220 to 250 range. When my max HP was 158 I was like "no F***ing way". I am going to see what I can do with the SAFC.

Originally posted by hunntyr

Originally posted by siueclipse Upgrading your motor to forged internals will NOT give you more hp. Actually, it will give you less HP. If you have a stock motor running 7lbs of boost and a built motor with lower compression running 7lbs of boost, you will see that the built motor has less HP. The built motor only allows you to turn up the boost to where the stock motor can't. Also.. if youre running lean, you will actually show more whp to a point, then boom.

I agree. Thats not what this is about though. With my setup I should be somewhere in the 220 to 250 range. When my max HP was 158 I was like "no F***ing way". I am going to see what I can do with the SAFC.

have you done a compression test? maybe your engine wasnt built right? my friends bro has a GS-T, has a 20g turbo, fmic, built engine, full exhaust, s-afc, ect ect. he was only pulling 250whp at 19 psi. well we just found out yesterday that AMS fucked up building his engine, forgot a piston pin lock or something like that, the piston pin made 2 big grooves in the cylinder wall and he was only running on 3 cylinders cuz he had no compression. so i would do a compression test first, because if your running lean, like siu said power should be higher. i would look to other areas before you look at fuel, although i would fix that leanness before you go boom.

Originally posted by GSGoinFast
have you done a compression test? maybe your engine wasnt built right? my friends bro has a GS-T, has a 20g turbo, fmic, built engine, full exhaust, s-afc, ect ect. he was only pulling 250whp at 19 psi. well we just found out yesterday that AMS fucked up building his engine, forgot a piston pin lock or something like that, the piston pin made 2 big grooves in the cylinder wall and he was only running on 3 cylinders cuz he had no compression. so i would do a compression test first, because if your running lean, like siu said power should be higher. i would look to other areas before you look at fuel, although i would fix that leanness before you go boom.

I actually did a compression test last saturday because I knew I was doing the dyno yesterday. My numbers are 210-195-205-210

you have to remember hector, that this is wheel hp. you have like 110 stock. adding 50whp is good. just add some boost then see what happens.

slipping clutch??

if his clutch was slipping it would show up on the dyno graph as a wavy rpm line if its a smooth line then the clutch is good to go

if you check out my photogallery on dsmtuners.com
http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=34663

that is what a dyno of a slipping clutch looks like

coolio. I wish they had a dyno machine over here :(.

Originally posted by RxR_Eclipse
I wish they had a dyno machine over here :(.

You're in Sandpoint, right? There are quite a few shops that have dynos in Spokompton, head over there. It's only a couple our drive.

IMO skip the dyno fee and buy a wideband, datalogger, etc. with the money you saved and experiment for yourself.


And hunntyr, 7 psi of boost should give you 48% more power than stock, with no other variables changed. If you put in the JE pistons, use 'em, crank up the boost and watch the AFR. Running 7 psi daily is weak on a built motor! I run 16 psi on my stock motor(granted it's a 4g), but your forged pistons can handle way more than that.

Jump on the Widebandwagon too! At >$400 for peace of mind, not to mention that it's an invaluable tuning tool, you can't go wrong.

Plus, with turbocharging, the amount of fuel going into the cylinders is directly proportional to the amount of boost you will see on the other side.

Originally posted by baxsom
if his clutch was slipping it would show up on the dyno graph as a wavy rpm line if its a smooth line then the clutch is good to go if you check out my photogallery on dsmtuners.com http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=34663 that is what a dyno of a slipping clutch looks like

that dyno chart is amazing! lol how does it or did it feel driving it on that clutch? lol thats great

it actually wasnt that bad
at low boost and normal easy driving it did ok
but as you can see in the higher rpm range i felt like i was on a roller coaster

but even as i type the she is in the garage with the tranny out waiting for the magical ups man to deliver a shiny new spec stage 3

play around with your safc and get a wideband.

ok...I got an SAFCII and hooked it up over the weekend. Took some time to do the tuning and got the car running good again. Now I wanted to ask how many people have the blue wire mod done and how accurate is it?? Reason why I ask is because I have the autometer A/F Gauge (blinky light one) and the blue wire mod to actually read voltage. During idle the SAFC reads between .70 - .79 on voltage but my A/F gauge dances between lean and goes 1 green into rich. I know standard O2 voltage should be between .88 - .92 however no matter what adjustments I do on the SAFC, I can't get it to richen up during idle. Any Suggestions??

Originally posted by Narco

Originally posted by RxR_Eclipse I wish they had a dyno machine over here :(.

You're in Sandpoint, right? There are quite a few shops that have dynos in Spokompton, head over there. It's only a couple our drive. IMO skip the dyno fee and buy a wideband, datalogger, etc. with the money you saved and experiment for yourself.

There is ONE place with a dyno in Spokane. The place is called Shelly's or Shelby's or something like that, kinda hard to get a dyno when they are open on the weekday's only and I work all week :(. Once I get my MS and my howell longrod kit I will be going over there for JUST a dyno sheet, no tuning. I have a wideband ,techedge ,so it datalogs just fine. It is hard to say "I think I have XXX HP" as braggin rights without a dyno sheet. I hate it when people say, I got XXX hp and can't back it up.

Originally posted by hunntyr
how many people have the blue wire mod done and how accurate is it??

During idle the SAFC reads between .70 - .79 on voltage

no matter what adjustments I do on the SAFC, I can't get it to richen up during idle. Any Suggestions??

The blue wire mod is a dirty hack, and most people only do it temporarily if they can't get their hands on a datalogger. Get a datalogger. There is some indication the blue wire mod draws power and gives the ECU an incorrect reading.

You should see 0.1 - 0.9v at idle, the a/f should sweep back and forth constantly. Reading a narrowband o2 sensor is only remotely useful at WOT. It should also spike up to 1.00v or 1.02v when you let off the throttle.

The SAFC will need to be LEANED out at idle if you have 30lb injectors, not richened. You can do either one by changing the "LO" throttle map, at the lowest rpm (500/1000?). Make sure you're set to the low throttle map and not "HI".

Try raising the SFMU idle fuel pressure to just 10-20psi below stock with those injectors. Your goal is to get a nearly perfect fuel curve, then start playing with the SAFC starting at zero on all settings.

You got 210psi compression on 8.8:1 JE pistons?! Thats amazing! Sounds more like 9.5:1... most people are right around 180psi on 8.8's.

Originally posted by thedawg
Try raising the SFMU idle fuel pressure to just 10-20psi below stock with those injectors. Your goal is to get a nearly perfect fuel curve, then start playing with the SAFC starting at zero on all settings.

If I remember right, Stock FP is 50psi and I have mine set now at 30psi with the 30lb injectors. I will try that and see what happens

Originally posted by thedawg
You got 210psi compression on 8.8:1 JE pistons?! Thats amazing! Sounds more like 9.5:1... most people are right around 180psi on 8.8's.

That's what I keep saying but the last time I did a compression test, thats what it read.

I have the #30's as well, and my idle FP is @20-22. Keeping it @ 30 psi will make you run rich for sure. I have been using the 2.72 disk with the short spring and that seems to work pretty well for me.

Originally posted by RxR_Eclipse
I have the #30's as well, and my idle FP is @20-22. Keeping it @ 30 psi will make you run rich for sure.

He said earlier he was running 28-29psi and running lean at idle and low throttle, so much so that he bought an SAFC to richen up the mixture at idle.

:scratch I ran 19-20psi idle on my 440's, leaned out -20% though. :shrug

I'd disconnect your blue wire mod and blinkylight gauge. They're probably causing more harm than help. Use only a digital multimeter to read the o2 voltage if you must. Preferably, get a datalogger.

Oh, and once again, you can't read rich or lean from looking at the o2 signal at idle, you can only look at a/f gauges during WOT. At idle, the computer is controlling a/f, hence the sweeping back and forth. You need a datalogger to see what the computer is doing with the fuel trims to know if you're lean or rich at idle.

I agree with ^^. You should not be running lean with those injectors and 30lbs of pressure for idle. Get a datalogger and see what is going on there. And for gods sake do not do the blue wire mod. I wouldn't trust that shit ass narrowband our car's come with. Do you have someone with a wideband you could borrow?