hey guys... i finally got my car back today and man, what a huge difference it makes to go turbo. i just have a few questions though.

one. my bov makes a fluttering farting sound. i have a turbo xs rfl, when i looked to see where the mechanic went for a vac source, he teed off from the vac line to my ext gate. i dont know if this is the problem, ive messed around with it already (putting in washers, and taking them out) i dont expect it to release if im stopped and just revving, i know it'll need more load than that. any suggestions?

second. my egt's i thought were quite high. i think it peaked at 850 deg celcius @wot in 3rd gear. im not sure what that is in farenhiet, i think around 1500.... what should those numbers be at?

third. ive asked this question before because its happened before i went turbo.. my oil light is on.. i dont have a factory oil pressure sender. the only things i know that are hooked up back there are my oil feed line and my oil pressure sender for my guage. i have oil pressure. 40-60 depending if im at wot. why is my oil light on?. ive noticed also that it'll flicker when i give it gas. for a brief moment, it'll turn off when i shift, but otherwise its still on. wtf?

thanks guys

Welcome to turboland!

I believe you already answered your question..

Originally posted by cartuners00why is my oil light on?

Originally posted by cartuners00
i dont have a factory oil pressure sender

I use the vac source off the intake. My HKS std. BOV fluttered at first but then I switched vac sources and actually turned it around on the flange and it doesn't any more. I've made new IC piping and rewelded the flange and it still doesn't flutter. Try that out. I have no idea what kit you have or your fuel set-up but 1500 F sounds about right for a "bolt-on" kit (Star or HRC) at least that's what I run at. There are a few EGT probes that some of these guys use. I've personally ran the autometer race type and it seems to still be working. You may have a loose/bad connection with your oil pressure sender. I'd probably trace the wire back and make sure that it's not worn somewhere and rubbing. Happy boosting!

ok cool... so i should just get a better vac source... any suggestions on where to tee off?

im gonna go to a dyno soon so i should be able to find out where my lean/rich spot are.. i still think 850 degrees celcius is a pretty high but i will find out.

as for my oil light, scott, are you sure that would be the reason? i havent had the oil light on in months and it just seems to go away for some reason. it almost always turns on for a brief period after an oil change. i know for a fact the wires arent floating around, i tied it somewhere but like i said, that was months ago. any other suggestions on what it could be?

yeah man... boost feels so cool in the gs. i have a t04b with a tial 35mm ext gate, im runnin a vortech fmu and walbro pump along with the misc stuff like gauges and missing link... my turbo doesnt even spool till 4000 rpm, but when it does, man it moves!!!

thanks guys

Originally posted by cartuners00
my bov makes a fluttering farting sound. i have a turbo xs rfl, when i looked to see where the mechanic went for a vac source, he teed off from the vac line to my ext gate.

Try hooking up a line to your wastegate that runs before the throttle body...

Originally posted by WickedESi

Originally posted by cartuners00 my bov makes a fluttering farting sound. i have a turbo xs rfl, when i looked to see where the mechanic went for a vac source, he teed off from the vac line to my ext gate.

Try hooking up a line to your wastegate that runs before the throttle body...

i think the first question would have to be where is the ext. wastegate's vac line tapped into? if its before the throttle body like it should be, like near the compressor outlet, then that would be why your BOV is making that fluttering sound... well its not your BOV making that sound cuz the BOV isnt opening, i think thats compressor surge. tap the brake booster line in the back of the mani. thats where my boost gauge and fmu are tapped, and ill tap the BOV there too.

Don't tee your bov off anything.Give the bov it's own source. Make sure your bov is attached tight to the flange.

cool... thanks for the replies. yeah, there's no compressor port on my turbo, the mechanic got a vac source right at the intake and tapped the bov there, so i will change that. but first.....

wtf is p1494 code? i just bought a scan tool today. the book that came with it just gives brief explanations. it says "leak detection pump pressure switch or mechanical fault"... it this is my oil pressure sender, what should i do? i dont have the factory sender installed. i also noticed that my oil pressure is dropping at idle.. about 35-40 but its usually floating around 40-60 at idle... any suggestions? i just got the cel this morning and erased it just now... so we'll see if it comes back on.

thanks guys

Originally posted by cartuners00
cool... thanks for the replies. yeah, there's no compressor port on my turbo, the mechanic got a vac source right at the intake and tapped the bov there, so i will change that. but first..... wtf is p1494 code? i just bought a scan tool today. the book that came with it just gives brief explanations. it says "leak detection pump pressure switch or mechanical fault"... it this is my oil pressure sender, what should i do? i dont have the factory sender installed. i also noticed that my oil pressure is dropping at idle.. about 35-40 but its usually floating around 40-60 at idle... any suggestions? i just got the cel this morning and erased it just now... so we'll see if it comes back on. thanks guys

why dont you have the oil pressure sending unit on? mine usually sits at about 40-65 at idle when i first start the car, but after the car is nice and warm, idle pressure is like 30-35psi.

why is it so important for the BOV to have its own vac source?

i didnt think i would really need the factory sending unit. when i put my oil pressure guage and its sending unit, the factory one broke off. since then ive just tied the wires. ive been told that its not really necessary to have that in, seeing as that all it's supposed to do is turn on the oil light when the pressure gets low and shuts off the car. am i right?

i checked the chiltons for that p1494 code... evap solenoid... is that really necessary to fix? the cel hasnt come back on yet so.... who knows!

Originally posted by cartuners00
i didnt think i would really need the factory sending unit. when i put my oil pressure guage and its sending unit, the factory one broke off. since then ive just tied the wires. ive been told that its not really necessary to have that in, seeing as that all it's supposed to do is turn on the oil light when the pressure gets low and shuts off the car. am i right?

You're right.

Originally posted by cartuners00
i checked the chiltons for that p1494 code... evap solenoid... is that really necessary to fix? the cel hasnt come back on yet so.... who knows!

It's just an emissions CEL. It's up to you if you want to fix it or not. :shrug

Not enough vacuum won't hold the diaphram open, at least that's how it was explained to me.

I'd say you're BOV sound is due to the way it is adjusted. I'm not sure about yours, but mine has an adjustment on the top that greatly effects how fast it blows off the pressure and the sound that goes with it.

hey guys

just fixed a whole bunch of stuff the last few days... got a vac source from the brake booster... man what a huge difference. the rfl releases when it should and sounds pretty damn good! i also put on a fmic. my question is this. when i first drove the car after putting the fmic and piping, i noticed a drop in response. i understand that i would lose a little bit due to the piping being pretty long (about 1 psi or so loss) but as i was driving onto a highway from an on ramp, i got 6psi in 2nd and third but fourth was only at 2-3 psi. why did i get that much of a drop? i was wot and i shifted around 5500-6000 out of fourth and noticed 2-3psi.

thanks for all the help!

How many pounds are you pushing? That plays a huge factor in how the damn thing will actually sound. Is it an adjustable bov? I had an rfl and Im pretty sure that it was? How many washers are inside ect. But of course check the vac line, same idea ...



Nick
97RS

850 degree celsius is 1,562 degrees fahrenheit.. next time you have to convert something, just type it into google and it does it for you :)
"850 degrees celsius in fahrenheit" got me that answer

Just so you know