| Go back to previous topic | | Forum name | Turbo/Nitrous Tech | | Topic subject | To: HRC or anyone for that matter | | Topic URL | https://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=i8&topic_id=840 |
840, To: HRC or anyone for that matter Posted by BoostnRS, Jan-08-01 09:15 AM
Here's what i would like to see. We all know that the 420a platform is pretty reliable and can handle quite a bit of boost on stock internals.. if im not mistaking HRC took it up to 16psi on stock internals before parts gave way. Thats pretty impressive. But what if you could install a Full stand alone system on a fully stock block and put some massive injectors in... I am very eager and curious to find out how much boost a stock block can actually take under optimal fuel conditions.
Please correct me if im wrong but when HRC ran their eclipse at 16psi it was sporting a the HRC stage2 kit.
So just imagine the possibity for boost if instead of beefing up your internals to withstand more detonation.. you could just tune your block to not detonate and crank up the boost to around 16psi... "Just a thought" If no one does it.. I might actually so something like this.. not anytime soon because of my financial situation..
What do you guys think ????
thanks!

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841, RE: To: HRC or anyone for that matter Posted by 95ESi, Jan-08-01 09:54 AM
I don't think that would work cause the heat generated from running 16 psi would melt the internal parts, seals, rings?
l e o n
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842, RE: To: HRC or anyone for that matter Posted by Armond30, Jan-08-01 11:26 AM
I believe they opooed theirs fo rthe first time at 15 psi. 12 psi is usu. the safe point on a good (brand new) motor before you start getting SUPER bad problems like detonation and lean conditions and the like. You MIGHT be able to get 16 psi if you do a stand alone and pigger injectors, but with as much as a stand alone cost, you would probably be better off just upgrading your internals.and getting some larger used injecors and a super afc.
have fun!
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843, RE: To: HRC or anyone for that matter Posted by HRC, Jan-11-01 03:21 AM
There are two ways in which one can overcome the limitations of the stock engines:
1. Excessive power: anything over 300HP is not recommended, as the stock powdered metal rods simply cannot withstand the load presented. When we intentionally drove engines to destruction to uncover these answers back in 1998, the goal was to understand what we could safely sell the public without having them find out first!
Our test engine was equipped with a fuel system capable of supporting about 400HP. We began to see stress cracks form in the con rods at 310 HP. At 350 HP, a con rod failure completed the testing.
In this case, HP, not detonation (covered below) caused the failure. Of course, a set of billet rods cures this Achille's heel.
2. Detonation: Usually caused by a lean fuel mixture, inadequate octane, over-advanced timing, or some combination of the above. It is quite possible to fail a stock engine at well below 300HP if detonation occurs. The shock loads presented are enormous as compared to normal combustion, and will crack piston ring lands easily while also stressing the rods. Severe detonation can also shatter a rod.
Important note: these stock rods can be damaged from a detonation episode and not show it, even if Magnaflux inspected. Avoid the temptation to re-use the rods and replace the pistons: it can lead to a nightmare should the rod fail later.
I know all this engine stuff costs lotsa $$, but consider: invest the cash and have an engine you can then run at hi HP levels for years. Frankly, if $2000 worth of parts and labor hurts too bad, then don't roll the dice with your motor: keep that boost down. In the overall picture, these engines are actually inexpensive to build. Whether or not you need to build one is entirely up to you, based on your system choices, caliber of installation, intelligent boost level vs. fuel system capability, and ongoing maintenance. Don't play if you can't pay!
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844, RE: To: HRC or anyone for that matter Posted by 95ESi, Jan-11-01 06:40 AM
All this mention of the engine and not a mention about the other important thing, which is the tranny! How much can the M/T tranny hold up? What about the A/T tranny? Don't want any tranny grenading on me....
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845, RE: To: HRC or anyone for that matter Posted by HRC, Jan-11-01 06:57 AM
Glad you asked!
The New Process A578 M/T in these cars has proven to be practically bulletproof in our own cars, as well as customers' cars. Our Neon and Eclipse make 1100 HP combined, and through hundreds of dragstrip passes and tens of thousands of street miles, we have experienced zero problems. The Neon has a Quaife limited slip diff, the Eclipse still a stock diff. We have good reason to believe this box is stronger than the Mitsu FWD gearbox in the 4G6 factory turbos, as we have seen more failures with the Mitsu 'box by far. And no crankwalk either, for further reasons why the 420A is an excellent, if not superior, alternative to the 4G6!
Auto trans in these cars benefit from the fact that they are derived from the older RWD Chrysler A727/A904 series transmission. Strong in stock form, they can also be built for higher than Stage II power levels should you desire.
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846, Wow... Posted by DarkOne, Jan-11-01 09:36 AM
What kind of clutches do you run in your neon and eclipse?
-DarkOne I'm so bad, i should be in detention.

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847, woooo Posted by 95ESi, Jan-11-01 09:42 AM
I have an A/T myself, so I'm wondering what people can/should do or build up to ensure the durability of the A/T transmission ?
l e o n
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