I read up on how to get the cel's and what they mean, but I have no idea what this one means even with the description. Maybe one of you can break it down for me a bit.

Ok we finished the install yesterday and drove it and fixed an exhaust leak and a minor fuel leak. Then we drove it again for about 5 minutes. It ran fine no cel's nothing. Well I get up this morning to go to work and turn the key and start the car. The check engine light is on and so is the oil light. So I check the it and I get:

12 - 31 - 55

12 means: direct power input to the PCM has been disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles

31 aka PO443 means:Evaporative purge solenoid / Clogged purge line / Vacuum hose / Evaporative emission canister clogged

and 55 means:End of error messages and if this code is the only one indicated, no errors were encountered

So I have been doing my serching. Now when I read that does that mean I just need to look for a vacuum leak?

Just want to make sure I am on the right track here.

Thanks!

Just look for 31 and reset the codes imo 12 and 55 are fluff imo

31 EVAP Purge Flow Monitor Failure.
31 EVAP Solenoid Circuit.
31 EVAP Solenoid Switch or Mechanical Fault.
31 EVAP System Large Leak.
31 EVAP System Small Leak.
31 EVAP Vent Solenoid Circuit.
31 Engine Coolant Temp sensor voltage too high.

What about the oil light?

The only problem is its going to be pouring down rain all day today. So I can't check for any oil leaks or even pop the hood to start looking for the issue yet unless it stops later.

If your not low on oil check to see if the sending unit got unplugged or fell off. Did you tee off the sending unit for the oil feed? maybe it didn't get pushed on all the way or got bumped a little during the install and came off during your drive.

Thanks I will check that when I get home, I just took my wifes car this morning because it was pouring down so bad this morning that parts of VA Beach got flooded. It's suppose to rain all day too! Figures huh?:wallbash

Thanks for advice mad!

As for the CEl it is about your evap system. There are some vac lines that connect to it. Check all of those vac lines and make sure they all got reconnected. As for the oil light, there is a good chance your sender is no longer connected like hatter said, so check that connection on the back of the block.

If the oil light is unpluged from the sending unit the oil light will not come on. There is another problem, maybe a bad sending unit or (hopefully not) low oil pressure.
It also could be possible some trash got into the small hole in the sending unit and causing it not work properly.

Originally posted by BOOSTED ECLIPSE
If the oil light is unpluged from the sending unit the oil light will not come on. There is another problem, maybe a bad sending unit or (hopefully not) low oil pressure. It also could be possible some trash got into the small hole in the sending unit and causing it not work properly.

my bad you are right sir it won't come on, but if it was grounded out would the light come on? hrmm

Originally posted by madhatter210

Originally posted by BOOSTED ECLIPSE If the oil light is unpluged from the sending unit the oil light will not come on. There is another problem, maybe a bad sending unit or (hopefully not) low oil pressure. It also could be possible some trash got into the small hole in the sending unit and causing it not work properly.

my bad you are right sir it won't come on, but if it was grounded out would the light come on? hrmm

I'm not sure if that would make it come on or not. Unless maybe both of the wires were shorted to ground. :shrug

the evap purge solonoid is right above your front motor mount with an electrical connector and 2 black lines one from your evap canister and the other one goes to the throttle body or the intake I can't remember which ... also a loose gas cap is also known to set that cel #, usually the solenoid on our cars rarley go out so I'd be looking for anything like a line pulled off the solenoid or maybe a cracked line ck with a hand held vaccum pump and close off the other end with your finger..If you had that solenoid off It could have been installed upside down which could of swapped the two lines...(seen it done!)I agree with everyone else ck connector on the oil pressure sending unit and or oil level ----good luck

ok well my main focus is the oil issue. This is what I did so far...I checked the oil level and its perfect, then I checked the oil sending unit and its clipped in perfectly and in the right direction. Lastly I took off the feeder line to the turbo and fired it up for a breif second to check for oil pressure which I do have oil pressure, but the light stays on...WTF is going on?

What else could I check and what else could it be?

Originally posted by Aggression
ok well my main focus is the oil issue. This is what I did so far...I checked the oil level and its perfect, then I checked the oil sending unit and its clipped in perfectly and in the right direction. Lastly I took off the feeder line to the turbo and fired it up for a breif second to check for oil pressure which I do have oil pressure, but the light stays on...WTF is going on? What else could I check and what else could it be?

Either the sensor itself or the harness feeding it.

has to be the sensor then because I just unpluged the harnes and plugged it back in, and still nothing!

try replacing the sending unit , its cheap insurance any way....

where can I get the sensor and sending unit?...Satan?

I think I have a brand new sensor somewhere in my apt. I bought one a long ass time ago when I did my turbo install and broke my original one. I never installed the new one because it wouldn't thread into the T that star sent with my kit. I'll look for it when I get some time today.

I just called Satan and they said that a new oil sending unit would run about $25. So if its the sensor maybe by replacing that OSU it will fix my issue!

Maybe I missed this, (and I'm sorry if I did) but do you have an oil pressure gauge on the car at all? If so, what's it reading?

Brian

I have an oil pressure gauge yes, but its not hooked up yet! Still waiting on a part from Hahn to hook that gauge up.

Do you think I need to replace the OSU?

dude man, you should bring your car over my house saturday, we can get that oil pressure guage hooked up, that's important. I most likely have the fittings you need to get it tapped in, too. It'll be a "custom" install, hahaha. that, and I have the OSU socket you need too.

I don't want to take a chance on driving it until the issue is resolved. If you could come over today and give me hand fixing it the oil pan is yours!

check your email

The stock oil pressure sensor will ground out when it see's no pressure. This is why you can disconnect the plug at the sensor and the oil light will not be on. Like mentioned, its either a clogged/bad sensor, if you have good oil pressure.

As for the EVAP, sounds like you may have the electrical connector to the solenoid disconnected...It's sort of in the way when you install a turbo kit..It's right there on the driver side of the head, facing the front of the motor..can't miss it. Check the connector and the vac lines..

Originally posted by XtremeRS
As for the EVAP, sounds like you may have the electrical connector to the solenoid disconnected...It's sort of in the way when you install a turbo kit..It's right there on the driver side of the head, facing the front of the motor..can't miss it. Check the connector and the vac lines..

That's the EGR, Matt. Dillhole.

You'e gonna have an EVAP code if you boost the car at all. There's some tiny checkvalve in the back by the tank that sees positive pressure and ruptures. Very common with boosted 2GNTs and unless you wanna drop the tank to get to it, not much you can do.

Originally posted by XtremeRS
The stock oil pressure sensor will ground out when it see's no pressure. This is why you can disconnect the plug at the sensor and the oil light will not be on. Like mentioned, its either a clogged/bad sensor, if you have good oil pressure. As for the EVAP, sounds like you may have the electrical connector to the solenoid disconnected...It's sort of in the way when you install a turbo kit..It's right there on the driver side of the head, facing the front of the motor..can't miss it. Check the connector and the vac lines..

that solenoid you are talking about on drivers side of the head up front is the egr solenoid..........

Doah..someone E slap me please :P But yeah, there is a diaphram valve under the car, right in the middle between the gas tank and the spare tire well, with like 4 lines going to it. The diaphram can tear if it sees boost, BUT that usually causes a CEL for the EVAP "gross leak detected", not for the code you are getting..I suppose just check all the EVAP lines, solenoid, ect..I'd just start getting used to those CEL's anyway :) Hopefully you don't have emmissions testing..