My car is running like crap.. computer is not adjusting A/F... would FCD have anything to do with A/F on map?

In simple terms yes but you're going to have to elaborate a bit. I can barely tell that's english.

FIX YOUR VAC LEAK.

Ya man you need to tell us more than 'its broken' if you want help.
What is your current setup, and a few more symptoms.

Real bad idle, smooths out when giving gas. On boost gauge holding 10 psi at idle.

check your pcv. blow and suck through that tube that goes from valve cover to intake mani. If you can suck and blow one way, then that's your problem.

Originally posted by DSMRoadster
check your pcv. blow and suck through that tube that goes from valve cover to intake mani. If you can suck and blow one way, then that's your problem.

instead of doing that.. just shake it to hear a rattle. if you hear a rattle the pvc is fine.

if its not trimming fuel, you've got a MAP sensor problem, an O2 sensor problem, or its just flat too rich.

What are the details on your fuel system? Give us some clues here so we can actually help you rather than just shoot in the dark.

i am very much interesting in hearing more on this problem
i have the exact same issues
10:1 air/fuel at 11 psi

brand new pcv and o2 sensor

regarding the map sensor
do you have a missing link or FCD
or does anyone know if it would matter either or

I'm using a FCD that came with star kit at the moment. 2GNT member Star Turbo Talon is making me a adjustable FCD which you taylor to your car. I had missing link had it on the car for about 2 minutes..they are junk. I think my problem is vaccum related because when I started my car for the first time after installing turbo It ran ok. I was holding 20 psi at idle now only 10. I'm taking peoples advice. Most likely vacum. I would like to use a SAFC but what is so secret about getting them to work on our turbo'd NT. No one has yet answered that. FCD alters map voltage...so does SAFC how can you get them to work together.

Originally posted by got_NX
FCD alters map voltage..

No it doesn't. It only prevents it from going over 4.6Vdc. You don't use an SAFC to ADD fuel, you use it to TAKE FUEL AWAY.

Installation and tuning is no secret. people have been using SAFC's on turbo 2GNT's for years.

Then how do I hook it up? I had a SAFC and got rid of it because know one could answer. Sorry FCD prevents it from going over 4.6Vdc. Still were playing with the voltage which SAFC works with "one reads map voltage, the other manipulates it". How does it work?

Originally posted by got_NX
Then how do I hook it up? I had a SAFC and got rid of it because know one could answer. Sorry FCD prevents it from going over 4.6Vdc. Still were playing with the voltage which SAFC works with "one reads map voltage, the other manipulates it". How does it work?

What do you mean, no one could answer the question? There's two install writeups and one tuning writeup under Mods on the main site. Been there for years. Jeez.

How does it work? The SAFC reduces the map sensor signal (via its negative adjustment) sent to the ECU, so the ECU thinks it is getting less air, and trims fuel accordingly. the SAFC's function has nothing to do with the map clamp's function. They are not even remotely mutually exclusive.

You use the SAFC to pull fuel out wqhen you run a large injector to maintain idle quality and to fine tune your fuel curve. You don't use it to add fuel with a stock injector, because that will not work.

Thank you...that was the answer I was looking for...I seen the right up's. Wasn't sure if that was the answer to my question..so to use a SAFC with a turbo kit you need to use the FCD. As simple as that..correct?

Once again...I get no answer to confirm...the turbo 420a and the SAFC. I'm starting to think this is B.S. Is the article fooling the SAFC about running with a turbo? or is it just hooking it up. ANSWER PLEASE!

you can use a ML with the safc. i am going to in about 2 days now!

Originally posted by got_NX
Once again...I get no answer to confirm...the turbo 420a and the SAFC. I'm starting to think this is B.S. Is the article fooling the SAFC about running with a turbo? or is it just hooking it up. ANSWER PLEASE!

I'm glad to see you here asking these question rather than that 'other site'. You need to keep in mind that everyone one here was at one point in your shoes with no one to help them. So if you dont understand or dont get an answer, dont freek out, simply 'bump' the thread.

This is what I used when I installed my SAFC
http://www.avenger.kicks-ass.net/safc.htm

You will need the missing link. Perhaps with messed up settings, by running too rich and lean, it wasnt functing correctly which made you believe it was crap. I cant fully provide a definition of exactly what it does because I still dont know 100%. I'm still a no0ob.

2gnt will take care of you. ;)

Originally posted by siueclipse
instead of doing that.. just shake it to hear a rattle. if you hear a rattle the pvc is fine.

Ahahaha... Sorry James, but if it rattles or not has nothing to do with how well the valve is working.

still too much fuel. I got car running again not sure what i fixed but it is working. It seems to be when boosting the gas build up is back firing. Does anyone have any ideas? Do you think something is wrong with my FMU?

I wanted to add that my A/F gauge is pegged all the way out...

Jeesus,
it took 3 seconds..
here SAFC install instructions.
"SAFC INSTALL"
http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=69
and i have no clue as to where you get that the missing link is crap. mine has been holding 16psi just fine, and no map problems.

and just to simplify. missing link is to prevent the map from "seeing boost", the SAFC is used to lean out bigger than stock injectors to help with idle and tune fuel curve.
you got your answer a few posts up you just did not look. the write up on fooling the safc is something different, is to trick the safc into leaning according to psi and not throttle position. it says it right on the tittle of the write up.

Ok Kyle let's start with the basics? What injectors are you running? Stock? What do you mean by an adjustable FCD? If you still have the missing link then put that in and get the FCD idea out of your head. If you are still on stock injectors then you don't need the SAFC. What FMU are you running? And what do you mean by 20psi at idle, I assume you mean 20inhg, correct? Now if what you really mean is that your idle went from 20inhg to 10inhg, then the first thing you need to do is fix the vacume leak. See you have to give us details for us to help, and getting frustrated with the members who are trying to help, only makes them stop helping....

Originally posted by Kirby
Ok Kyle let's start with the basics? What injectors are you running? Stock? What do you mean by an adjustable FCD? If you still have the missing link then put that in and get the FCD idea out of your head. If you are still on stock injectors then you don't need the SAFC. What FMU are you running? And what do you mean by 20psi at idle, I assume you mean 20inhg, correct? Now if what you really mean is that your idle went from 20inhg to 10inhg, then the first thing you need to do is fix the vacume leak. See you have to give us details for us to help, and getting frustrated with the members who are trying to help, only makes them stop helping....

Ok thanks, I'm running my stock injectors. The FCD I'm talking about is the little black box that came with star I'm replacing with an adjustable on which terry aka star turbo talon here in forum is making me. I using the vortech FMU that came with star kit 12.1 fixed. I got the vac leak under control and car is running but still extemely rich. So what might be causing me to run rich?

Ok so with stock injectors and the star FMU you shouldn't be running super rich. That is the base stuff that came with the kit, so it is designed to work together to produce the proper results. What does your boost/vac guage read at idle now that the vac leak is fixed? Also do you have your vac connections hooked up properly to the FMU? And are the fuel connections going through the proper feed and return lines on the FMU? You did run a return line for the fuel right?

you don't run a return line with the basic star kit. check your fuel pressure gauge and boost gauge. could be that the FMU is bad. ohh and what do you mean by insanely rich? (lots of black smoke?, fuel sputtering out, etc?)

I mean rich to the point where the smell will make you damm sick. I think I have it figured out..I might have my FMU lines backwards. I guess it all depends how you look at this thing. It is obvious which is the vac line. So to me the other side was the bottom (this would be the straight barb'd fitting and the 90 degree fitting as IN from fpr... I think people refer to the 90 drgee fiting as bottom which is the true OUT to fuel return correct?

the 90* fitting is the "in" for the FMU. If you suspect a bad FMU then bypass the 2 fuel hoses and take it out of the picture to see if it runs better.

Edit: Kyle give me a call monday. your FCD should be there monday also, if not already. We'll get it straightened out. PMed with number.
Terry

Originally posted by whodatt1
you don't run a return line with the basic star kit. check your fuel pressure gauge and boost gauge. could be that the FMU is bad. ohh and what do you mean by insanely rich? (lots of black smoke?, fuel sputtering out, etc?)

You do if you don't have one stock. These regulators use the return line to bump pressure by restricting the flow of the return line..

no you dont run a return line if you follow the instructions. the instructions tell you to place the FMu in the rear. That is why whodatt stated that.

Terry