ok so i was sitting in auto class today talking to a guy who just got a GS-T and i realized something... i know how to weld... i also have my old exhaust manifold... things started clicking and heres my idea

to start with im poor so i cant buy a kit. but im thinking i can cut the flange off the old exhaust manifold, port the openings a little bit with a dremel, and then make a custom exhaust manifold. i have a mig welder and oxy welder at my disposal. i was thinking of making one like Lickscissor's manifold.

i also have a limitless supply of sheets of steel i can use, which im thinking of matching up with the turbo to make the flange for the manifold to turbo connection with the needed bolts(tell me if that wont work for some reason)

i was thinking of first junk yard hopping looking for a 14b, but if i cant find one then buying one on ebay, and changing the actuator spring. also buying a 1st gen 02 housing to use to match up the flanges to a downpipe that i will make. then buy some piping to make some intercooler pipes for the GS-T smic i can use cuz a friends bro doesnt need it anymore, and using his 1st gen bov.

ok now im thinking all thats left is oil lines, with proper fittings, vaccume lines, missing link, and of course a s-fmu(will that come with the needed fuel lines or not?). oh yeah and a boost gauge and mbc.

im not sure if im missing something big but this seems like it will be pretty cheap, and i think im fully capable of doing that custom work. tell me what you guys think.. i started searching but there were a lot of results that werent too on target and i was too giddy to keep searching lol.

my estimates on pricing right now look like it will be in the range of $500-$600... i can definately afford that... you guys think thats do-able? im excited now!! lol

thanks for the help, sorry its so long

A 14b will bolt up to a stock manifold ;-)

Good luck making a DP clear the AC, though.

Originally posted by DarkOne
A 14b will bolt up to a stock manifold ;-) Good luck making a DP clear the AC, though.

gonna sound retarded but which stock manifold are you talking about? our stock one? how so? im going to have to go down in my basement and look at it. ill see about the ac, maybe that will just have to be removed ;-) sorry im really excited now, i can finally have boost! im gonna try and start working on that tomarrow, i realized i probably have enough money to do the job now.

one question, what would i use for vaccume lines and where would i get it? rubber hozing from auto zone? thanks so much

Originally posted by GSGoinFast
our stock one? how so?

one question, what would i use for vaccume lines and where would i get it? rubber hozing from auto zone? thanks so much

Yes, our stock one. The two bolts on our manifold are spaced the same as two cattycorner bolts on a 14B turbo flange. You only use two bolts, but it will bolt on.....

Rubber vacuum line from autozone is exactly what you'd use for vacuum line, yeah.

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by GSGoinFast our stock one? how so? one question, what would i use for vaccume lines and where would i get it? rubber hozing from auto zone? thanks so much

Yes, our stock one. The two bolts on our manifold are spaced the same as two cattycorner bolts on a 14B turbo flange. You only use two bolts, but it will bolt on..... Rubber vacuum line from autozone is exactly what you'd use for vacuum line, yeah.

is there even enough room for that? it seems like it would be too far to the left... which would make sense as to why you said good luck getting past the ac with the down pipe... hell i dont know. is there anyone actually running it like that?

Dark one - "Rubber vacuum line from autozone is exactly what you'd use for vacuum line, yeah."

well putting it like that made me feel stupid lol.

do you think i would be better off cutting the stock flange off the stock manifold, or tracing it out on a steel sheet(about 1/2" thinck) and making a whole new flange? i dont think this manifold will cost me anything, i just got a new cat back cuz the old one was a custom made one and sucked, so i could just clean the piping out and use that piping to make the manifold. this is gonna be a fun project. :D

now its time to find out where the junk yards are lol

any other comments or suggestions are welcome

thanks

-Chris

since when does a 14B fit onto our stock manifold? haha hell I should try that. I don't have an AC to have to clear.

Originally posted by BumpinTalon
since when does a 14B fit onto our stock manifold? haha hell I should try that. I don't have an AC to have to clear.

You may have to wallow out two of the holes on the 14B flange, but i promise it'll fit .. i've seen it done. WheatKing (from ASOG) did that a LOOOOOOONG time ago on his Sebring. Positioning wasn't optimal, and he complained that the manifold was very, very directional which lead to very rapid and almost violent spooling charateristics.. but it fit. With two bolts. Do it.

Why am i the only person that remembers these things?

Originally posted by DarkOne
Why am i the only person that remembers these things?

Some ppls hard drives are bigger than others...I for example run on RAM and and floppy disk.

Originally posted by DarkOne
WheatKing (from ASOG) did that a LOOOOOOONG time ago on his Sebring. Positioning wasn't optimal, and he complained that the manifold was very, very directional which lead to very rapid and almost violent spooling charateristics.. but it fit. With two bolts. Do it. Why am i the only person that remembers these things?

I do

I also remember a very violent joy ride in his car when he floored the pedal :)

Alain

so i decided that im gonna do a practice one with a steel flange first. if it turns out half way decent ill use it. so im gonna go trace the flange of my exhaust manifold on a piece of paper, and then trace it onto some steel at school and cut it out. then im thinking after i get all the piping on the manifold worked out, ill go buy a 1st gen turbo gasket, and use that to make the flange. and then weld that bitch on there.

i still have a couple questions, but im gonna go search first :thumbsup then if i cant find an answer ill come back. thanks for the help so far. im excited lol

Does anyone have any pics of bolting the 14b right on to the stock exhaust mani? that is insane!

ok well i finished making the stencil for the block flange. but i have no idea how im going to cut it out because our plasma cutter doesnt have a tip right now for some reason... any suggestions on how to cut it out? im sure we will get a new tip soon but i wanna start on this thing right away. im planning on cutting it out roughly with the plasma cutter and then using a grinder to make it perfect. well if i cant cut it out tomarrow maybe ill start on the piping. i dunno we'll see what happens. we also have a CNC and CAD machines too, but im not sure if there just for learning puproses or if they are of any real world use. that would be insteresting, ill have to find that out. anyways, ill start it tomarrow.

oh yeah i did forget one thing in my set up, a fuel pump. no biggie, $100 for a 255. wish me luck ill let you know how it goes.

Hey, what's wrong with violently quick spool on a turbo? If it spools too fast, use a bigger turbo!

Why am I the only person who thinks of these things? :)

Since I have several years experience in the CNC field and work in it currently I will tell you, these machines are not toys and aren't intended for someone that doesn't know machine work or how to program one. They are very expensive pieces of machinery to put it lightly. The one I run currently cost just a hair under $1,000,000.

Originally posted by Kaoz78
Since I have several years experience in the CNC field and work in it currently I will tell you, these machines are not toys and aren't intended for someone that doesn't know machine work or how to program one. They are very expensive pieces of machinery to put it lightly. The one I run currently cost just a hair under $1,000,000.

7th graders use them everyday man..

Originally posted by Kaoz78
Since I have several years experience in the CNC field and work in it currently I will tell you, these machines are not toys and aren't intended for someone that doesn't know machine work or how to program one. They are very expensive pieces of machinery to put it lightly. The one I run currently cost just a hair under $1,000,000.

thats why i think they might just be for learning purposes. haha only 3 minutes into the project and i had already drawn the first blood lol. well my retarded ass left the flange trace out at home, so im gonna work on the rest of the manifold today.

one question which i was searching last night but didnt get any strait answers, how can i lower the wastegate actuator psi to run a lower boost then what the stock 14b runs? i was reading something about adding washers to the actuator rod to make it longer, and although this leaves the wastegate a little all the time, and causes a slower spool up, it will keep the peak boost lower? is that correct? any other ideas? i really dont want to go with an external wastegate right now, dont have the funds.

As food for thought... you made mention that money was an issue and that you figure roughly $500-600 in it. There will always be something unforseen and before long you will have doubled that number. If you have all intent in proceeding, make sure you keep a little side fund available. Good luck with the project, it should be a fun experience.


--------------------------------------
know me as santiago
boosted 420a and ej2o..(my 2liter v8 eaters)

Originally posted by corsagsbo
As food for thought... you made mention that money was an issue and that you figure roughly $500-600 in it. There will always be something unforseen and before long you will have doubled that number. If you have all intent in proceeding, make sure you keep a little side fund available. Good luck with the project, it should be a fun experience. -------------------------------------- know me as santiago boosted 420a and ej2o..(my 2liter v8 eaters)

yaa im starting to see some expenses but i still dont think it will be too much. right now ive got $250 to spend, plus $200 for a christmas gift i never got from my parents lol. and ive been working a lot lately so i should be pulling in $100 a paycheck to go towards this project. the rest has to go towards college spending money :(

heres my cost list so far:

14b turbo: $100
Exhaust manifold: free(just a little elbow greese and time)
intercooler piping:$30
Down pipe w/ flex section: $60
vortec FMU: $179
walbro 255lph: $100
Vaccume lines: $30??
Oil lines and fittings:???(i have no clue on how much or where to get them?)
Water lines:???(same as above, if i even put them on)
Missing link: $50
Boost guage: $50
random nuts and bolts: $15

so thats $614 plus oil lines... not bad. and the piping might not even be that much.

oh yeah, i figured out how to adjust the internal wastegate so nevermind on that.

but my progress so far, ive cut out the sections of 2" piping for each cylinder to go into, but im finding that i might need to buy a little smaller piping to fit up to the flange. basically im using 2" piping for the "plenum" you could call it, but i gotta go get 1.5" to actually go to the flange.

l l_ _l l_ _l l_ _l l
\__ ___ ___ __/


it looks like that, im making each one seperate, then i will weld them together.

thats where i am so far, thanks for the help

-Chris

Originally posted by GSGoinFast
it looks like that, im making each one seperate, then i will weld them together. thats where i am so far, thanks for the help -Chris

Ok save yourself a headache and failure and search around for WELD ELS in schedule 40 size , 1.5 inch diameter 2 x Tees and 2 x elbows ....

Alain

Originally posted by alain95i4

Originally posted by GSGoinFast it looks like that, im making each one seperate, then i will weld them together. thats where i am so far, thanks for the help -Chris

Ok save yourself a headache and failure and search around for WELD ELS in schedule 40 size , 1.5 inch diameter 2 x Tees and 2 x elbows .... Alain

well i bought the supplies for it($4 for piping) so im in pretty deep already :rolleyes lol well its not really gonna cost anything so im gonna give it a try i like the challenge and i got the time and tools. and if it doesnt work ill try your way lol.

haha i found my piping for the runner things today. first i made the mistake of buying galvanized steel that wasnt even big enough :wallbash but i went to auto zone and bought a tail pipe for $4 and its perfect. but i think tomarrow im gonna start on the flange since i kinda need it lol. no plasma cutter but i think ill just cut a proper size rectangle of steel with the sawzaw and then grind it into shape thats the plan for tomarrow.

Originally posted by alain95i4

Originally posted by GSGoinFast it looks like that, im making each one seperate, then i will weld them together. thats where i am so far, thanks for the help -Chris

Ok save yourself a headache and failure and search around for WELD ELS in schedule 40 size , 1.5 inch diameter 2 x Tees and 2 x elbows .... Alain

ok im worried the manifold will fail which would make the whole thing a big waste of time, plus id have to start over and have a lot of down time when it does fail, so im gonna go with the weld el idea. where do i get these? Home Depot? and how much do they cost? thanks for the help

-Chris

**EDIT** ok i found the place to get them, and everyone seems to get them here. www.mcmaster.com ok so this is the ones i picked out

"Unthreaded Steel Butt-Weld Pipe Fitting-Sch40 1-1/2" Pipe Size, 90 Deg Short Elbow, 1-1/2" Radius"

should i go with the short elbow, or get the long one. 1 and 1/2 radius seems like it would be big enough, but im not sure. what do you think? the other choice is 2 and 1/4 inches... alain which do you think is best? thanks. oh yeah i also found the tees on there. the total for 2 elbows and 2 tees is $56... not that bad. can i mig weld these or oxy weld these? or do they have to be tig welded? thanks

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by BumpinTalon since when does a 14B fit onto our stock manifold? haha hell I should try that. I don't have an AC to have to clear.

You may have to wallow out two of the holes on the 14B flange, but i promise it'll fit .. i've seen it done. WheatKing (from ASOG) did that a LOOOOOOONG time ago on his Sebring. Positioning wasn't optimal, and he complained that the manifold was very, very directional which lead to very rapid and almost violent spooling charateristics.. but it fit. With two bolts. Do it. Why am i the only person that remembers these things?

very rapid and violent spooling eh
well as long as nothing will explode... i don't see why not. I guess I might do this, all depending on how good of a summer job I get.

why dont u just use your stock 420a mani and get an adapter plate made to bolt a turbo on to it. i did this and it works very well 6.5 Psi i am running and it spools up fast as ever and works great. no probs and i saved alot on a mani. i got the stock one for 18$ on ebay. not as pretty as a aftermarket but works none the less. plate was only 25$ from local machine shop.

got a picture of the adapter plate? I know a lot of Honda guys use them with no problems

i have no pics but i can scan the paper template i used for the shop to cut it out from . but basically its a square with a notch out for my anti freeze line in one corner with 5 holes in it where my turbo bolts to it and where it bolts to the mani. urs will have diff hole patterns since i used a subaru turbo but it not hard to make at all.

Is this kinda what you guys are talking about?

Originally posted by ajcfalcon
Is this kinda what you guys are talking about?

Lookie there, a 14b bolted to a stock manifold. Who'd have thought.

Looks like some mechanical nightmare critter than a turbo setup. :P

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by ajcfalcon Is this kinda what you guys are talking about?

Lookie there, a 14b bolted to a stock manifold. Who'd have thought.

and stole my thread!:P

yep i did same thing but with a subaru turbo.. and it works suprisingly well. im real happy withmy setup.

Cool.......i like that idea.....

ok i got a question. i thought i read it on here somewhere but upon searching i couldnt find it. can i make the oil feed line out of copper brake line? otherwise i could use the 4AN ss braided lines from my nitrous kit but i would rather not since it would be hard to sell(if i do) without those lines. thanks for any and all help.

also for the connection to the oil pan... would i use something like this? http://www.sweetperformance.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=14&products_id=25

what other fittings from that site could i use or should i get?

i was gonna go with stock injectors for now, but my friends bro has some extra 550's, you think these would be too big or could i get away with it if i have a lower ratio fmu? what ratio fmu should i go with with stock injectors? 10:1? thanks

-Chris

**EDIT** BLAH! i cant figure out if i should just go with a regular vortec fmu or the Sfmu. im trying to save money so do you think it is worth the extra $70 for the sfmu? ive been searching but i cant decide. thanks

Originally posted by GSGoinFast
i was gonna go with stock injectors for now, but my friends bro has some extra 550's, you think these would be too big or could i get away with it if i have a lower ratio fmu? what ratio fmu should i go with with stock injectors? 10:1? thanks -Chris **EDIT** BLAH! i cant figure out if i should just go with a regular vortec fmu or the Sfmu. im trying to save money so do you think it is worth the extra $70 for the sfmu? ive been searching but i cant decide. thanks

WTF dude? I think what your doing is a bad idea. You should start reading the fuck out of this forum and learn a alot more before you fuck your shit up. It's gonna cost you more in the long run when you blow your shit up. In the best case, if you succeed with what your trying to do, I think your gonna have a whole lot of problems constantly. There is a reason people pay the prices for the parts they get, and it's not because they don't like money.

I'm not trying to hate on you man, I'm just trying to get you to consider what your really doing, since nobody else has warned you yet.

Originally posted by Dirty

Originally posted by GSGoinFast i was gonna go with stock injectors for now, but my friends bro has some extra 550's, you think these would be too big or could i get away with it if i have a lower ratio fmu? what ratio fmu should i go with with stock injectors? 10:1? thanks -Chris **EDIT** BLAH! i cant figure out if i should just go with a regular vortec fmu or the Sfmu. im trying to save money so do you think it is worth the extra $70 for the sfmu? ive been searching but i cant decide. thanks

WTF dude? I think what your doing is a bad idea. You should start reading the fuck out of this forum and learn a alot more before you fuck your shit up. It's gonna cost you more in the long run when you blow your shit up. In the best case, if you succeed with what your trying to do, I think your gonna have a whole lot of problems constantly. There is a reason people pay the prices for the parts they get, and it's not because they don't like money. I'm not trying to hate on you man, I'm just trying to get you to consider what your really doing, since nobody else has warned you yet.

I know what im doing. i figured 550's would be too big but was just checking. the only thing im a little confused about is what fuel set up i should get. ive been searching this site non stop for the past month on everything and anything i can think of. i cant seem to find why exactly to get the sfmu over the regular fmu, people just say to do it, i cant find any reasoning. im also not too sure about what ratio to get with stock injectors since everyone that asks about ratios seems to have #30's. im pretty sure im not going to "blow my shit up". ive done tons of searching on this site, i read corky bell's Maximum Boost(although i just found it to start re-reading it cuz i forgot a lot of stuff) i know everything i am going to do except for the fuel set up. ive been working on my manifold, although im not too far on it yet. after starting to make the flange i realized it would be much much easier to just cut the flange off my old manifold, then i wont have any fitment issues. i got the "elbows" for the 1 and 4 cylinder ports welded and i think they look pretty damn good. still a couple finishing touches i got to do to them. i got the smic, and im watching some turbos on ebay still deciding which one to go with.

The other thing i was questioning is if i have to use ss braided line or if i could use brake line since when i was searching i came accross some saying they did that. im fairly confident in what im doing, i just come on here for some suggestions or confirmation

-Chris

The best advice I got for my custom turbo setup was... 30LB Injectors, Wablro 255 and Vortech FMU. Set me back $200, no biggie

Originally posted by ProjectTalon420A
The best advice I got for my custom turbo setup was... 30LB Injectors, Wablro 255 and Vortech FMU. Set me back $200, no biggie

im on a tight budget right now and keeping costs to a minimum is really what i need. ill get injectors a little bit after i do the set up, but for the beginning im gonna stick with the stockers. soyou have the regular FMU and it works fine for you? like i said i keep seeing that you should get the SFMU but i dont see any reasons why. what disk ratio do you think i should get? 10:1? im gonna get a walbro 255 also. thanks for the help.

-Chris

**EDIT** sorry i also got another question. i keep seeing that a t3 is perfect for our cars. now i keep finding older t3's on ebay that are fairly cheap, but they all have .42 intake and .48 exhaust, and when i ran a search on those numbers i got mixed answers about if it was too small or not. anyone have experience with these? im gonna run 6psi-7psi to start with

Sorry, i didnt mean to "steal your thread" but i just though i would provide a visual since that was the topic...

Originally posted by ajcfalcon
Sorry, i didnt mean to "steal your thread" but i just though i would provide a visual since that was the topic...

no biggie the thread isnt going anywhere until i get some of the parts made and post pics for approval/disapproval.

I could be wrong (since I run MS), but it was my impression that the S-FMU was adjustable, and the regular FMU wasn't.


I'd be wary of using brake lines for oil feed. It doesn't seem that they'd have the flow you'd need to supply the turbo. Remember, they're build for low flow, high pressure. You need low(er) pressure, high flow for the oil. I got my coolant lines (SS) from Summit. (Oil from Turbosunleashed.com, but that's not for a 14b turbo, and they were kinda expensive)

Brian

Not to hate on you, but you keep mentioning that you are on a tight budget, if you don't have the fundage to do it right then wait and save. More money equals better in the long run, i.e. $3200= bad ass after-market turbo kit thats proven and will be less likely to blow your shit up, $1500= pieced together random parts that will work if you are a guru and know your shit, $500-$600= well... I think you see where Im going. If you're doing this for fun and it's just a project to learn stuff then you should definately go forth and see it through, but don't put a $500 turbo kit on your car if you can't afford to replace the engine if and when it blows. Having said that you will now ignore me so good luck on your project and I honestly hope that it turns out well for you, maybe you'll get something out of this that will produce a new worthwile product for our cars.

Originally posted by Keith2172
Not to hate on you, but you keep mentioning that you are on a tight budget, if you don't have the fundage to do it right then wait and save. More money equals better in the long run, i.e. $3200= bad ass after-market turbo kit thats proven and will be less likely to blow your shit up, $1500= pieced together random parts that will work if you are a guru and know your shit, $500-$600= well... I think you see where Im going. If you're doing this for fun and it's just a project to learn stuff then you should definately go forth and see it through, but don't put a $500 turbo kit on your car if you can't afford to replace the engine if and when it blows. Having said that you will now ignore me so good luck on your project and I honestly hope that it turns out well for you, maybe you'll get something out of this that will produce a new worthwile product for our cars.

see for $3200 = a good turbo and manifold, but a lot of stuff that you want to replace with better stuff. ive already got the smic, the materials for my manifold, and i have a 1st gen crushed bov and a T3 on there way. im not gonna use brake line for the oil lines, i just thought i saw it somewehre on here. im just gonna order one of those oil line kits off ebay for $69, just save me some head aches.

ok so far I have or bought: T3 turbo, smic, bov, manifold materials

i need to buy: sfmu, piping for intercooler and downpipe, missing link, oil line kit, boost gauge, fuel pump, couplers, and gaskets and bolts... i think thats all i need am i missing anything? I know where im getting all of that stuff and the price for it. oh yeah also some high temp paint to make my manifold look good/hide flaws lol. i can make all the flanges myself. oh yeah and if my manifold project fails, it will only be a $10 lost, so no big deal. i can buy a real manifold then.

let me know if im missing anything, otherwise this project will be in full swing being installed in a week or 2 depending on when the parts get here.

no high temp paint in the world will last on a turbo manifold. I think the only good way to keep it looking nice is ceramic coating, and even then it will look shady after a years worth of abuse.

The T3 with the smaller a/r .48-.42 will do nothing but disappoint you. Looks for something in the .60-.62/8 range for fun driving.

Good luck with this.

Just a couple things Chris. Then I'll shut up :)

I'd suggest looking at an A/F gauge and an EGT gauge. I know they're kinda expensive, but you'll need your A/F to tune, and your EGT to make sure you don't melt pistons. They're relatively cheap insurance.


Glad to hear you didn't use brake lines for oil :)

Lastly, I noticed that earlier you said you'd use exhaust couplers/T's for the manifold. Unless I'm picturing these wrong (and I certainly could be), I don't think they'll handle the heat without warping, and I know they couldn't support the weight of a turbo. Alain made mine, and he did a great job, using thick elbows and T's. You might want to think about that (just food for thought) and supporting your turbo if you use the pipes I'm thinking about.

Oh, and don't bother painting it, it won't last ;-)

I know no one wants to see you do it wrong and screw something up in the process. Good luck bro.

Brian

Originally posted by ForceFed420a
Just a couple things Chris. Then I'll shut up :) I'd suggest looking at an A/F gauge and an EGT gauge. I know they're kinda expensive, but you'll need your A/F to tune, and your EGT to make sure you don't melt pistons. They're relatively cheap insurance. Glad to hear you didn't use brake lines for oil :) Lastly, I noticed that earlier you said you'd use exhaust couplers/T's for the manifold. Unless I'm picturing these wrong (and I certainly could be), I don't think they'll handle the heat without warping, and I know they couldn't support the weight of a turbo. Alain made mine, and he did a great job, using thick elbows and T's. You might want to think about that (just food for thought) and supporting your turbo if you use the pipes I'm thinking about. Oh, and don't bother painting it, it won't last ;-) I know no one wants to see you do it wrong and screw something up in the process. Good luck bro. Brian

Hey what size is your t3? nearly all of them i seem to find are .42/.48 and i did a search on here to look at opinions of it and most people said it will be fine. its "suppose" to support up to 300hp, and im only looking for 220 or so whp for now. i think it will do just fine for now.

I actually already have an a/f and egt gauge hooked up. ill just drill a new hole in my new manifold for the probe.

as for the manifold, not being able to support the turbo is one problem ive been thinking of. im thinking i will rig up some support brackets for the manifold. im also worrying about warping, but we will only be able to see if that happens when i put it on. if this manifold fails me i will just buy a real one. im not too sure if alain is still making his or not. but i will look for them, i think you can buy them directly from turbonetics. oh well we will see what happens.

thanks for the input, and keep it coming

-Chris

T3... .48A/R compressor housing with a T3 50trim wheel (different than a 50 trim t04e wheel) and a .48a/r exhaust housing with a stage 1 wheel.

Good luck with the manifold. I hope it doesn't crack or warp or anything. I'm glad to hear you already have the other gauges :)

Brian


PS. I hoped mine would take two weeks too. hehe, nope :)

Originally posted by ForceFed420a
T3... .48A/R compressor housing with a T3 50trim wheel (different than a 50 trim t04e wheel) and a .48a/r exhaust housing with a stage 1 wheel. Good luck with the manifold. I hope it doesn't crack or warp or anything. I'm glad to hear you already have the other gauges :) Brian PS. I hoped mine would take two weeks too. hehe, nope :)

do you think the .42/.48 will be fine for me for now running 6-7psi?

and a correction, not 220whp, thats retarded lol more like im looking for 190whp-200whp, somewhere in that range.

ok i keep going back and forward in my head on whether i should get the sfmu, or just the fmu... im thinking fmu now because the sfmu is $120 more. and im also thinking since the star kit comes with just the regular fmu and works fine, why cant my set up? what do you guys think? also what disk ratio would be best for stock injectors? 10:1? any help on that would be great. the fuel system is where im not to confident on, everything else i know exactly what im doing. any help would be appreciated. thanks

-Chris

I'm pretty sure I've read that the Star kit FMU comes with 12:1 disk. Thats the one I got since I'm also going to be running with stock injecotrs.

Originally posted by GSGoinFast

Originally posted by ForceFed420a T3... .48A/R compressor housing with a T3 50trim wheel (different than a 50 trim t04e wheel) and a .48a/r exhaust housing with a stage 1 wheel. Good luck with the manifold. I hope it doesn't crack or warp or anything. I'm glad to hear you already have the other gauges :) Brian PS. I hoped mine would take two weeks too. hehe, nope :)

do you think the .42/.48 will be fine for me for now running 6-7psi?

Chris,
As long as the center section and seals are good, I think it'll be perfect. Quick spool up, reasonable power. You'll be good.

Sorry I can't help you with the FMU and stuff. Other guys will have to contribute there. Good luck, and if you have any more questions, don't hesistate to ask. :thumbsup

Brian

hey, i noticed after i won the bidding that there looks like there could be a little oil in the exhaust houseing... im praying it doesnt leak cuz i dont want to have to rebuild it... but it was only $100 so oh well. ya after searching till like one in the morning, i found that the star fmu has the 12:1, but thanks for answering that anyways lol. well, im waiting for confirmation on the turbo, i asked him to email me when he got the payment, and he got it 2 minutes after i won, but i havent heard from him. i emailed him again last night. oh well we will see what happens. i also got the tracking number for my bov.

thanks for all the help
-Chris

I don't know....

I'm down for the "BUDGET" turbo kit but shit, i only paind $200 for a nice custom manifold.

And that seems to be where most of your headaches are going to lye.

AFAIK, the SFMU is the best choice to tunabilty.

Good luck dOod.

ok im worried the manifold will fail which would make the whole thing a big waste of time, plus id have to start over and have a lot of down time when it does fail, so im gonna go with the weld el idea.

ok i found the place to get them, and everyone seems to get them here. www.mcmaster.com ok so this is the ones i picked out

"Unthreaded Steel Butt-Weld Pipe Fitting-Sch40 1-1/2" Pipe Size, 90 Deg Short Elbow, 1-1/2" Radius"

should i go with the short elbow, or get the long one. 1 and 1/2 radius seems like it would be big enough, but im not sure. what do you think? the long elbow is 2 and 1/4 inches... alain which do you think is best? thanks. oh yeah i also found the tees on there. the total for 2 elbows and 2 tees is $56... not that bad. can i mig weld these or oxy weld these? or do they have to be tig welded? thanks

-Chris

buy 2 tee and 2 regular elbows 1 1/2 id schedule 40 and a 420a flange
from a seller and you're done don't try to reinvent the log style manifold and stay away from short radius elbows

you could weld them with mig too

Alain

Originally posted by alain95i4
buy 2 tee and 2 regular elbows 1 1/2 id schedule 40 and a 420a flange from a seller and you're done don't try to reinvent the log style manifold and stay away from short radius elbows you could weld them with mig too Alain

haha ok so go with the 2 and 1/4 inch radius elbows, got it. where would i buy a 420a flange?

http://www.turboflanges.com/MitsuDodge.htm

Scroll down to the third one on that page.

Tony

Originally posted by enhance
http://www.turboflanges.com/MitsuDodge.htm Scroll down to the third one on that page. Tony

wow dude thanks, the only other place i found was $59 :thumbsdown

alain, ive got another question, or to anyone else. are the tee's gonna be long enough for the long radius elbows? thanks

-Chris

**EDIT** Shit man i accidently gave you neutral points instead of positive :wallbash anyone know how to change that??? or can a mod change it for me?? damn im a retard