I'm running my oil lines, but I can't get the oil pan off to drill and tap for the return line because the bolts on the metal splash gaurd aren't coming off. Can I just drill and tap with the oil pan still on? And then run oil through the oil pan to flush out anything that gets in the oil pan?

I figured I would consult you guys before attempting this.

I vote no.

Anyone else? I read an old post of someone else drilling with the oil pan still on, but he didnt say how it turned out.

Unless you want metal shavings running through your engine you need to take it off.

Originally posted by coppereclipse95
I vote no.

Ditto. You want the chance of getting some nice metal shavings in there?

Don't just drill the pan, you will never get all the metal out of it.

Spray some PB Blaster on the bolts, let them sit for about 20 minutes, than come back and try again. They will come off.

I wouldn't drill them out either, youre asking for a large headache.

I tried everything short of drilling or cutting the bolts and still couldn't get them off. :wallbash So I went ahead and drilled into the oil pan. It drilled out a lot easier than expected, and then I JB welded the fitting into the hole. I ran 5 qts of synthetic oil (all i had on hand) through the engine to wash out the metal shavings. :shrug

Originally posted by ericeclipse2
I tried everything short of drilling or cutting the bolts and still couldn't get them off. :wallbash So I went ahead and drilled into the oil pan. It drilled out a lot easier than expected, and then I JB welded the fitting into the hole. I ran 5 qts of synthetic oil (all i had on hand) through the engine to wash out the metal shavings. :shrug

:squint

not a good idea, but you can do it if you want to risk it. here's the way...

Before drilling the pan you can pack the bit with lithium grease and drill slowly. The grease will help keep the metal shards from falling forward into the pan and contain them. From there drain your oil and say a quick prayer hoping that you got them all.




--------------------------------------
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boosted 420a and ej2o..(my 2liter v8 eaters)

Make plans to redo the JB weld every few months or so. On an oil pan that shit will leak easy. You really need to take your car to a mechanic if you dont have the right tools. all of those bolts come off with the right tools.

Terry

Originally posted by fly1
JB weld was used to secure my oil pan fitting. It holds solid, without any leak, for about two years now. JB Weld is the sh*t

JB weld worked for that guy.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=8&topic_id=53280&mode=full

Originally posted by ericeclipse2

Originally posted by fly1 JB weld was used to secure my oil pan fitting. It holds solid, without any leak, for about two years now. JB Weld is the sh*t

JB weld worked for that guy. http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=8&topic_id=53280&mode=full

If you apply it properly it should hold. You need to degrease and score the surface.

I really can't believe you just did what you did, but it's your car...First thing, there is no way you got all the metal shavings out of the pan..hopefully they don't get into anything major, and the filter catches it all. Second, I would not trust JB weld to hold a very critical fitting onto an oil pan. I don't care how many people say it works good...What happens if that weld job breaks off when you are driving, and you have no idea about it? All the oil from the motor will be gone within a matter of minutes, and you won't know about it till you hear the motor knocking or it siezing up. There is ALWAYS a way to get stubborn bolts out..Don't rush something like this, take your time to do the job properly. But hey, we are all human and make mistakes, so hopefully this won't bite you in the ass later down the road. Don't tackle a job like this without proper tools, and proper hardware..

Originally posted by XtremeRS
I really can't believe you just did what you did, but it's your car...First thing, there is no way you got all the metal shavings out of the pan..hopefully they don't get into anything major, and the filter catches it all. Second, I would not trust JB weld to hold a very critical fitting onto an oil pan. I don't care how many people say it works good...What happens if that weld job breaks off when you are driving, and you have no idea about it? All the oil from the motor will be gone within a matter of minutes, and you won't know about it till you hear the motor knocking or it siezing up. There is ALWAYS a way to get stubborn bolts out..Don't rush something like this, take your time to do the job properly. But hey, we are all human and make mistakes, so hopefully this won't bite you in the ass later down the road. Don't tackle a job like this without proper tools, and proper hardware..

Amen.

I pulled the pan and had someone spot weld that fitting to the pan. run4cvr has the pan now and I'm pretty sure there isn't a single issue with it, I know I didn't have an issue with it. Do it right the first time and never have to do it again with more money involved.

ya that wasnt a smart idea. you might as well get the pan off to get all the shavings out because you cant flush all those out. especially with oil because the shaving will just stick to the sides of the pan and not drain with the oil. good luck with that bro

My best suggestion for you at this point is to go buy a nice magnet before you start it up and place it on the pan and leave it there until you can get the pan off and clean out the shavings.

Holy cow! I just read this...

JB-weld oil fittings and oil pan shavings...scary

better drink up because you'll need it :beer

Originally posted by SilverBullet20g
Holy cow! I just read this... JB-weld oil fittings and oil pan shavings...scary better drink up because you'll need it :beer

Ha, ha...a local performance shop (just opened at that time) did that for me, but I was there to check it. I can't believe that either :shrug The fitting was tapped and secured with the nut, the surface was sanded and cleaned for good adhesion, then JB welded. It's been four years (knock on wood) and it's still tight. I'm a little un-easy about drilling into an installed oil pan though.

Good thing they cleaned the surface. I've seen that stuff just pop off when it was attached to paint and other crap

Ok, I'm taking the oil pan off tomorrow and BOLTING the drain line into it. And also making sure there are no metal shavings in the oil pan after I'm done cleaning it.

Sorry for being stupid, :bash , my bad.

Is the metal splash gaurd even necessary?

Is it ok to drive even a couple miles though?

Originally posted by ericeclipse2
Ok, I'm taking the oil pan off tomorrow and BOLTING the drain line into it. And also making sure there are no metal shavings in the oil pan after I'm done cleaning it. Sorry for being stupid, :bash , my bad. Is the metal splash gaurd even necessary? Is it ok to drive even a couple miles though?

What are you talking about? Metal Splash guard? The only 3 things close to the pan would be the downpipe, the center crossmember and the 2 brackets that go over 2 corners of the pan and bolt the block and tranny together.

I really wouldn't drive it man, not even for a couple miles. I know it's a pain, but by the time you drive it a couple miles, the damage will have been done. You don't want that stuff in your engine. I know which thing you're talking about, that metal thing in the front, kinda triangular in shape. I had to use a 1/2 inch drive and an extension to get at it (I think it's an 18mm-could be wrong though), and I'm an oaf so it came off. I had my exhaust downpipe disconnected already (I think you need that off to remove the oil pan). It'll take you at most 20-30 minutes to get the whole thing off, but it's a far cry from the time it would take you to rebuild or replace the stuff that could get ruined. Just do it, we don't want to see you up a creek because of something relatively simple.

As for the oil return, I brazed mine from both sides, and then JB welded it. I doubt it's going anywhere.

Don't worry, you haven't done any damage yet, but I would highly recommend you don't drive it until you're sure of the cleanliness of the pan. Good luck!

Brian

Well, I took the pan off, cleaned it, cleaned off the JB weld and welded the drain pipe into the pan. :thumbsup The feed line was leaking a little so I had to redo that. Now I have the feed line running right into the drain line, (because I dont have the turbo on yet, waiting for the guy to make my exhaust). Is it ok to have the oil cycle like that? (Figured it is, just though I would throw the question out there)