ok so after a few searches and a lot of reading
i think i have the injector sfmu thing figured out
right now my turbod GS has the stock injectors
with lowered compression i think i am ok at 9psi but just to be safe
i can install 30lb-310cc injectors like the ones from hahn and use a vortech sfmu or the craptech that i already have to turn down the idle fuel pressure to compensate and not need an AFC. i like the idea of the vortech better because there arent hundreds of posts talking about what a piece of crap it is.

question are the vortechs fitting an or npt
because i really dont want to add on to the expense of steel lines and AN fittings when i can use the 3/8 barbs and rubber hoses that i already have

i have read about static and idle fuel pressure
i cant find the difference

i apologize for the long post but i just wanted to make sure i understood everything

Well, I'll offer my .02. I don't know about the FMU or the SMFU or whatever it is, or how to hook it up, since I run MS.

But I hope I can answer your question between static FP and idle FP. Idle fuel pressure is regulated with manifold vacuum taken into consideration. In other words, idle fuel pressure is the actual FP your car has during idle, while there's vacuum in the intake manifold, and the SFMU is compensating for that. Static fuel pressure is the pressure without vacuum taken into consideration. A way to check static fuel pressure would be to disconnect the vacuum line to the SFMU (with the car running), and it should rise to the static pressure.

I hope this helps!
Brian

Yes, you can dial down your idle pressure with the sfmu. I believe the SFMU uses O-Ring type fittings to a -6AN. One like this

You Don't NEED SS lines. You can get a -6AN (or whatever size you need to connect to the SFMU) and use regular EFI fuel line by removing the clamp down side (the Red side), putting the hose on the barb and clamping it down with a hose clamp. This is the part I'm talking about.

Check out http://www.bakerprecision.com , seems like they have the best prices on this stuff.

The SFMU comes with fittings so no need to buy them.

Terry

96 Eagle Talon ESI....Daily driver

97 Eclipse.........

awesome
ok so there is a difference between static and idle
i have read that with 310 injectors i should start by using the 2nd largest ring, small dark spring and install the bleed screw off of the cartech on the sfmu and drop the fuel pressure to about 30 to start
is that static or idle with the vacuum line installed

this stuff can be so confusing
why is the portfueler so expensive

Hanhs plate is why.....its aluminum and has to be machined from a solid stock. the rest is just added up cost.

Brain is 299.00
reg is 135.00
plate is 300.00....no markup there i had one machined and it cost 300.00 without the fuel rail
injectors.....
fittings and lines add up quickly too

best thing to do is find a used 8 injector setup for sale here (average price is 500 with everything), or if you like the idea of standalone go with megasquirt.
Terry

96 Eagle Talon ESI....Daily driver

97 Eclipse.........

35 psi at atmospheric pressure (remove the vac signal line to the fpr) should be good. Use a datalogger to fine tune it, just adjust the regulator to get the ECU's fuel trims (short term) closest to 0 as you can.

i have the digital tuning pocketlogger
so i just need to watch the short term trim at idle without the vacuum line on until it is at zero

how will this setup work for smog testing

another option that i have been looking at is the megasquirt

i have been reading quite a lot about it here
and basically it seems like a great idea
but i have not yet seen if anyone has had problems getting their car to pass smog or emissions tests

as far as the megasquirt goes
is mrslick still assembling them for people?
and once received what else do i need to put with the kit to get it on the car and running

I don't know if this will help but I have accell 335cc/m injectors and SFMU. I found using the largest disk is best/safest. I don't have turbo on anymore so I haven't been messing with it for quite some time now. But the largest disk was/is the safest. I read alot of posts of people having to use the largest disk and fine tunning with a bleed valve. Non-turbo im running about 23psi idle, largest disk and no bleed valve and my fuel trims LTFT stays between -21 and -25, STFT between -7 and +7. 0.92~0.98 o2 voltages at WOT. Wish I was still turbo so I could give you some more useful data! AHHHH! psssssssst.

well yeah
you see all these different mod routes to go
but my main concern besides running good is smog legal
not a lot of posts from people on wether or not their car will pass smog tests
wether or not it is the portfueler, megasquirt, large injectors and sfmu
i dont live in a testing place now
but i would hate to have to sell the car that i have spent so much time and money on already because i am moving to a sniffer state
so whatever method i decide to go with it has to be able to pass
even if i do end up having to give hahn another grand

portfueler/8 injector setup will pass smog tests becasue the 4 secondary injectors only get used during boost. Now if your state pops the hood and inspects for aftermarket then no you wont pass.

Megasquirt can pass but you need to get a little creative so the ECU does not start recording codes....(no injectors for 1, you would need to leave 4 injectors wired up but not doing anything, resistors may work in place of them)

Terry
96 Eagle Talon ESI....Daily driver

97 Eclipse.........

so you are saying that if i left my stock injectors wired to the stock injector harness then i wouldnt get a CEL

then the MS has a harness that is wired to the new injectors

wow

so if i went the way of having someone build the system for me
how hard is it to install and get running

you will need to fine tune it no matter who builds it. my advise is read the manual on the web megasquirt web site. there is work involved to install it, how hard that is depends on you.

Terry
96 Eagle Talon ESI....Daily driver

97 Eclipse.........