I'm aware of what it does and why some people want it done, but not sure on how to do it. This is a spare turbo so if I fuck it up it doesn't matter, this is just how I learn new shit. Can anyone tell me how to go about cliipng it 10 degrees. It would be nice if I don't fuck it up, but everyone I know that does this doesn't wanna give me any advice, like I'm gonna steal their business.

This isn't something you should do yourself. Even if you did it and didn't fuck it up, you have no way of knowing what you may have done to the balance of the wheel. You'd have to send it off anyway for the balance job, so you might as well send it off and have it clipped and rebalanced.

What kind of machine do they use to balance the wheel? It would still be nice if someone could explain the process. Even if I decide not to do it, I could still learn something more than I know now.

It's called a lathe... :) That's pretty much what would be used.

Just go ahead and clamp your drill in your vice, clamp the drill on the turbine shaft... and go to town with the dremel. :)

Well thats perfect dude. I run one at work and am working on getting one from a guy at work. I just need to test it out and get a big ass truck to bring it home. I'm making a chuck to mount some throttle bodies on so I can bore them out using the lathe, so I guess I'll make a chuck for the shaft as well.

But as for balancing the wheel, I'm not sure how I would go about doing it on the lathe. Before I go into that, I still need to know the process of clipping.

You could use a lathe to clip it, clipping is basically cutting the ends of the blades back at a certain angle.
If the turbine was balanced, and you machined it correctly in the lathe it should sitll be balanced... but if anyone was crazy enough to try and do it themselves, I'd say still get the turbo balanced correctly by a turbo rebuild company... but then why not just pay them to clip it too...

Unless your lathe can spin 60k rpms at least you won't be able to balance it properly. Also, why would you clip it in the first place? Maxing out your turbo ... exhaust side becoming a restriction? Clipping increases your exhaust flow ... it leads to slower spool up (though it's very small) but better high end efficiency. This isn't a DIY sort of mod.

So the "turbo rebuild companies" use a lathe to balance the shaft and wheel? If so, do you know what all is done, and what kind of cutters they use.

Originally posted by Avenger
Unless your lathe can spin 60k rpms at least you won't be able to balance it properly. Also, why would you clip it in the first place? Maxing out your turbo ... exhaust side becoming a restriction? Clipping increases your exhaust flow ... it leads to slower spool up (though it's very small) but better high end efficiency. This isn't a DIY sort of mod.

The guy's that own the shop next to mine ask me if I would do it for them. I told them I didn't know how and that I didn't know much about it, but they gave me a turbo and told me to see what I could do (port and clip) so fuck it. I've been trying to research as much as I can, but most sources don't realy wanna help me out with info. This is why I ask here. Where I started.

I would just port it for them. They might get pissed if they get the death whine a few hundred miles after the fresh install. I know I would.

It's all taken care of. This is nothing more than if I can or if I can't. I have to rebuild the turbo anyway cause they fucked it up and the motor it was on during another experimental test run with a CRX.

I'm not trying to be a prick here, but I'm fully aware of how fucked up this will more than likey turn out, but I have parts at my disposal and some people wanting to see what I might be able to do. They know I haven't done this, and I don't know much about it, but to give it a try anyway, so why not. I've gotta learn somehow or would at least like to try. Everything I know now usually ended up in alot of broken parts and damaged equipment before I got it right. This is no different. If I can't get any info, I won't do this anyway. I forgot how tough this forum got over the years. I appreciate the concern, but there's no need for it, I promise.

hell yeah, cut the shit out of those turbine blades!

As the owner of a machine shop I can tell you this for sure. You can turn down the turbine blades on a lathe, but you cannot balence it on the lathe. You must have a balencing machine and they are rather expensive. So you could do the turning but you'll have to have it balenced elsewhere. :thumbsup



Oh, you don't like altezza's? Too bad, your gonna get a good look at mine.

I found a link for you, too bad that place is in the UK... I hope you got cash, the balancing machines look expensive.. You should call and ask them to send you the CD-rom on how it works..

http://www.turbotechnics.com/vsr/mk3.htm

Ha Ha, I stole this....



The high speed balancing process

Turbochargers are assembled from component parts which are separately balanced using conventional low-speed, hard bearing balancing machines, and both the turbine wheel and compressor wheel are normally balanced in two planes. At the turbine end, the balance is not affected by assembly into the cartridge, but at the compressor end, small errors in the wheel, the shaft, the thrust collar and the nose nut can cause an accumulation of balance error. At high speed, this can result in a noisy turbocharger, and in a severe case can cause premature bearing failure.

This imbalance can be corrected by running the assembled cartridge at high speed on a flexible suspension, measuring the vibration response, and either changing the assembly position or removing metal from the nose to achieve an acceptable balance. This operation usually requires the unit to be run at speeds close to the normal service operating speed, typically 100,000 to 200,000 rev/min, depending on wheel size.

In operation, the CHRA is mounted in a slave turbine housing adapter, using quick-release clamps to hold it. The turbine housing is in turn attached to a flexibly-mounted air nozzle assembly which directs air into the housing, rotating the turbine shaft. An accelerometer attached to the flange measures the vibration of the complete assembly.

The compressor wheel is covered by a shroud for safety, and to reduce air ‘windage’. The nose nut or shaft end is magnetised, and a coil in the centre of the shroud converts the rotation of the magnetic field into a voltage signal, which is processed as a speed signal.

The accelerometer and speed signals are then processed electronically to remove unwanted frequencies, giving a display of vibration level (g-level ) against speed as the CHRA is accelerated up to the maximum speed. At the same time, the angular difference between the speed signal and the accelerometer signal is displayed to indicate the imbalance position.

Now thats how you talk somebody out of doing something. Thanx for finding that. I'm still gonna try to get as much info on this as I can, and maybe someday, take it on. Thanx for all the info fellas' These guys are just gonna have to get a rebuilt p&p turbo, but I don't think they care. I'll post some pics of that when I'm done. To be continued........