Okay so I think my #4 piston ring is blown - Comp check 85psi, 145psi w/ oil. So I don't have enough for a rebuild...and probably won't for another 6 months. Other than the car overheats sometimes, white smoke out the breather, dipstick, PCV, exhaust and rough idle it runs fine. Question is how long have you guys ran on a limp motor before getting a rebuild or just totally blowing the whole thing? Thanks

Alvin

better be careful. you might be replacing the block

Dont play with block issues.

Well, the way I figure is that when I get the rebuild the block will be bored over .020 and the head and block will of course be decked. I don't hear like pieces of my motor in the cumbustion cahmber when I drive it.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

well i know this sounds nuts but i wasn't ready for a rebuild when this happened to me either. so i got really board one night and just happened to have a used set of pistons with rods still attached. well i took the head off, dropped the oil pan pulled out the bad piston with the rod, gave it a quick ball hone, and dropped in the used piston and rod with new rings and the same bearings and reused the head gasket(triple metal only). i know all of this sounds really really bad but i did it twice before i put my je/eagle bottom end in because i wasn't ready either and still wanted to drive it. compression wasn't perfect but it ran just fine and held 9 psi all day. the second time it happened it was a diffrent piston too(dam cast junk).anyway you can try this, i wouldn't suggest running it like it is because it will get worse and you will have a big oil mess and mabey a junk block. sound crazy but it will work! for awile.

Did you pull the motor out or you did it while still mounted? Was is difficult to do this? My other cylinders have around 185psi so they should be fine for awhile and if I decide to do this then I'd put a new headgasket and some ARP head studs while I'm at it. I'm trying to get this under $500 and make it drivable. Do you have a sorta write up on this? Thanks for the help
http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

i did it with the block still in the car bolted up. it took me about 6 hours(my pace). the only hard part about removing the head is you have to mess with the timing. you need a puller for your harmonic balancer. dropping the pan is a peice of cake. don't forget to torque everything properly and gap the rings.
ball hone$10
rings$75
head gasket$50
used piston w/rod$10(if you need one let me know)
timing KIT(highly recommended)$60
oil and filter$?
thats all i can think of. that leaves plenty for studs
be careful not to hurt the crank and make sure you put the rod back in facing the right way with the bearings where they came from. ball hone it with wd40 for a few seconds.

Couple more questions if you don't mind sir:

1) What size ball hone and grit did you use?
2) What brand piston rings did you use?
3) Did you reuse your old topend gaskets (cam seal, valve cover, etc)? Also did you reuse your oilpan gasket as well?
4) What else did you replace on the timing side, besides the belt? Should I get the whole idler pulley, tensior pulley, tensior thing?
5) Did you use the ARP studs or your old ones?
6) Where are you located? Can ya help me?

Thanks man, I'm gonna probably buy that piston/ rod off you and try to source the rest of the parts.

Alvin

Originally posted by Semperboost
2) What brand piston rings did you use?

Enough people here to tell you to NOT use Wiesco's. ;)

Originally posted by Semperboost
3) Did you reuse your old topend gaskets (cam seal, valve cover, etc)?

Replace them as needed.

Originally posted by Semperboost
Also did you reuse your oilpan gasket as well?

It's designed to be re-used.

Originally posted by Semperboost
4) What else did you replace on the timing side, besides the belt? Should I get the whole idler pulley, tensior pulley, tensior thing?

If you got money then go to town. It sucks to re-do timing becuase your water pump is failing.

Originally posted by Semperboost
5) Did you use the ARP studs or your old ones?

Always a good idea if you got the extra cash.

Any other sealants I need besides copper HG spray. I don't wanna have to take it all off after I get it done. Thanks for your help & support guys

Slow is Smooth. Smooth is Fast.
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

You can never have enough RTV...seriously.

Within reason...choads.

Originally posted by Ark
You can never have enough RTV...seriously.

false, too much rtv is bad.

a layer of rtv that is too thick, will not let the inside of the rtv cure, which would make that gasket weak under pressure, Exaample thermostat housing.

DWAYNE H
95 widebody eclipse
92 Awd Talon
03 G35 coupe Sold- missed
96 chevy lumina
00 yamaha R1

Originally posted by etx(SIUECLIPSE)
Yeah right. He is making 380fwhp with ebay hoses and the HRC 2.25" clamp on downpipe attached to his stock exhaust. And a SFMU, LOL! You should be maimed and beaten you fucking liar.

3000 miles

So still using that as a nut cracker?

Boat anchor now. It's at the bottom of Lake Havasu.

Originally posted by widebodied
Exaample thermostat housing.

Pffft, my entire thermostat housing was RTV. Haha. Fucker doesn't leak anymore.

Only problem with driving an extended period of time on a busted engine is you run the risk of slnging a rod through the block. And ive had Wiseco pistons in my car for over 3 years now. Put up with the abuse just fine. There is a lot to be said for knowing how to build/machine an engine right. :)


1997 Silver RS
Built
T3/T4 BB Turbo
20psi
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.1@93mph 2.015 60'
1996 Black Supra TT
2004 Silver Snake