I know that people have asked similar questions, but I'm in need of more of an answer on this.

Tonight I looked at EVERYTHING that I installed with the HRC kit & I didn't find any vacuum leaks anywhere. Fuel pressure is steady at 45 psi at idle. Disconnected the downpipe just in case the cat is restricting the exhaust, and it wasn't. Now... we go to check the turbo itself, remove the first coupler and oil drips out. Not a lot, but enough to make one ask WTF. so I disconnect the 2nd coupler from the first pipe, and about 3 drips of oil come out. Beond that pipe there is no oil in the system.

We start the car and at idle nothing's coming out oil wise. We rev the engine & I got some oil on my hand from it being in front of the outlet. Now some people have said that it may be a bad turbo, others say that it's a seal. How can you tell? When we rev the engine, the air forces your hand away from the pressure being generated, so the turbo itself seems to be working fine, and the turbine is not loose nor is there any smoke from the exhaust. When I installed the oil drain I made sure that it was not kinked or restrictive. Does anyone know what would cause the turbo to leak oil, and what can I do to fix it? It's a brand new Super 16G.

Oh yeah, I still can't generate any boost, but everything seems to be working properly. :shrug

sounds like the seal on the turbo is bad. why else would there be oil in there? not a headgasket if your still running....

Thanks for replying.

So what are my options if it's a bad seal? Is it something that's easily resolved, or will I have to call Hahn & see what they can do since I just bought the kit this past June?

Originally posted by HeDog
Thanks for replying. So what are my options if it's a bad seal? Is it something that's easily resolved, or will I have to call Hahn & see what they can do since I just bought the kit this past June?

rebuild. i think they sell a rebuild kit but youll have to ask the turbo-heads around here. it may be easier to see if you can pick one up for cheap

Just curious, did you follow the instruction on the connecting the breather to your intake? If you did, you can be getting blow by form the head. If not then the problem is in the turbo.

I called Hahn yesterday & as far as the oil goes, they said that at first you may have some coming out, but it should be minimal at most.

Apparently everything is fine and they didn't feel that I should be concerned about it.

I'll have to keep an eye on that.

Honestly though, despite what HRC said, if you're not able to generate boost there is something wrong. Keep an eye on the oil, if you continue to get oil and no boost I think your seal is bad. How many mile are on it? HRC sells their turbos with a one year warranty, (yes, that's a fact) so they should repair or replace it for free.

EDIT: FYI - Hahn's rebuild kit is 150 plus shipping.

I bought the kit in June and installed it about 3 weeks ago, it's got about 10 miles on it.

The turbo, in high RPM's, moves A LOT of air . I'm probably going to take off the section of the piping at the throttle body and see how much air is being moved there, just to make sure that I don't have some kind of restriction somewhere.

That turbo shouldnot leak oil bottom line. Keep an eye on it if it continues much i would send it back. Make sure you get your warrenty used since in a way you paid for it. Rebuild is easy but why should you have to do it. The warrenty starts the day you bought the kit regardlesss of when you installed it. Keep that in mind in case you decide to send it in and they tell you too late its not covered.

Terry
96 Eagle Talon ESI....Daily driver

97 Eclipse.........

Um... not to overstate the obvious... but have you done a boost leak test?

Hook up all your intercooler piping, shove a coke can in the intake, and use an air compressor to pressurize the system through the wastegate vacuum nipple to 10psi.

I did do boost leak test. I charged the piping as high as 20 psi, but didn't find anything major. I took off my BOV and revved the engine, there's definitely air being moved up to the throttle body.

I also shortened the length of the wastegate hose. Hahn had said something about turbulence in that specific hose. That seemed to help the boost somewhat. I was actually able to keep 3-5 psi of boost. Hopefully this weekend I'll put her on the road again & do some more process of elimination.

Depending on your exhuast piping size, making 5lbs of boost with the wastegate set at 8 (which I'm assuming your is) might be all you are able to make.

With the stock downpipe and Hahn's downpipe fitting only, I should be able to get higher than 5 psi shouldn't I. Right now I have the downpipe disconnected from the cat.

I'll probably punch out my cat before I reattach the exhaust, and I have a Thermal R&D 3" catback. So I should be able to reach 8 psi shouldn't I since there won't be any restriction?

Or, you could have the same problem I did-

Hahn may have shipped you the 5lb wastegate actuator from the Stage 1 kit instead of the 9psi actuator from the Stage 2.

(Then when you call them they swear up and down and sideways that they MUST have shipped you the right parts and it couldnt POSSIBLY be their fault. Then they make up fun little things like turbulence and fluidization and flatulence to throw you off. Then they tell you they wont talk to you anymore since you don't know what you're talking about, and to get a professional mechanic.)

Then you borrow your friend's 9psi actuator and all of a sudden you have 9psi boost.

Try a manual boost controller... up the boost. If you can build 5psi, then the turbo is working.

Yes, you are correct. You should be able to make 8lbs with the R&D 3" cat back easy. Try what was mentioned above ^^^^^

Supposedly that will give me "infinite" boost right? I'm going to just steal a valve from our fish tank & try that, but I should start with the valve open all the way correct, so I don't blow my engine? Also, with the MBC will I be able to actually get the actuator to move? With all the testing that I've been doing it has yet to actually work.

Sorry to keep posting problems that I'm sure most everybody knows how to fix. I really like the stuff that I'm doing to my car, and I really appreciate the knowledge that you guys are giving me. Thanks.

do it the right way, use an air compressor and regulator. set the reg to hold 5psi in the air hose. Use common fittings to run the air hose to your wastegate. pressurize it with 5psi and see if it opens. then increase the reg to 9psi and see when it opens.

If you want to play with the fish tank bleed valve then start with the valve almost closed and slowly open it.

Terry
96 Eagle Talon ESI....Daily driver

97 Eclipse.........

Hahn might have seriously sent you a 5 psi wastegate. Andrew (spoolin gs) got his stage 2 kit and it had the 5 psi actuator on it. He had to buy a MBC.

in all honesty, you want the lowest spring pressure from the wastegate actuator that will hold the wastegate "flapper" closed properly to prevent spiking and then use a boost controller to control boost. i use the el-cheapo "g-valve" made from mcmaster-carr parts. http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm if you want specific www.mcmaster.com part numbers. good luck

Brian

I finally got everything dialed in, haven't had any more oil in my IC piping, and I'm running at 10 psi.

Thanks everyone for your help. :thumbsup