RANT ON...
Well, first run was good: 289whp/280tq... After 10 or so runs to dial in my 034EFI better, i managed to get rid of that lean spot as i went into boost and pull some fuel at the top end but i have a new lean spot between 3-4k rpms that i just could not get rid of (lean only in to the 12's). so now overall im in the 11's range.

After the fuel runs, i went to the cam gears..then it went down hill from there...
this goddamned dyno shop didn't even have a blower for the IC, just a big floor fan and a spray bottle for between the runs, and I was pressed for time buy the end.
i tried +2, +4, -4 and them back to 0, intake only settings with no real impressive results for any of them. this is wher the heat soak came in, i beleive. what ever gains i may have had with the gears were negated by the heatsoak.
run 1 was 14 degrees cooler in the shop than run 16!
with each cam adjustment, my fucking boost controller, for whatever reason, would cause major "boost bounce" and would take 4-5 runs to "settle back down" and give me a good smooth boost run. so after 3 adjustments (read 15 or so more runs) my best HP was at 0!!!!!

1 1/2 hours, $165.00, 2 burns, 1 scraped knuckle and an almost broken nose (hit myself while trying to loosen cam gear bolts) all for only 4 more hp.... :wallbash WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
anyway, here is the print out...



oh yea, and my freakin wideband program fucked up and closed at the end of it all and didn't save ANY of my graphs form this day... :wallbash :wallbash

AND....im am loosing my positive outlook for the 034EFI. without anyway to account for intake temp change, for me anyway is a big PITA. im not sure what its doing exactly, but only in colder temps and only in boost i get this bad ticking that sounds like lifter tick, but it aint!!! FULL oil change with 5 gts 1 week ago, no ticking in boost in lower elevation and higher temps, but in small mountain pass with cooler temps, TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK!!!!!!!!!!! :wallbash :wtf :wallbash

RANT OFF

TICK TICK TICK is KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK. Maybe not serious enough to do any damage, but likely knock nonetheless.

Want more air temp control? Run larger primaries ;-)

Don't be too upset, Tim.. ya done good. 289/280 is nothing to laugh at.

good numbers. keep going and youll get more. just takes time.

how much boost and what turbo?

Thanx Dino... i appreciate it.
Explain more about larger primaries helping temp control issues?
Siu,
i was hopin to break 300whp...oh well, next time
16-17psi, 92 octane pump gas, s16g, 3"dp w/test pipe.

goooooooooood numbers for that turbo and boost :)

Those numbers are pretty good for that boost level.

You said that you were playing with the cam gears... What kind of cams do you have?

Originally posted by tim97rs
Thanx Dino... i appreciate it. Explain more about larger primaries helping temp control issues?

What do you think is adjusted to account for temperature? Stock injectors, maybe?

Run larger primaries, adjusted through fuel pressure to compensate, and some arbitrary secondary controlled through your EIC. The factory ECU will adjust the primaries' pulsewidth per temperature as its factory correction map says it should.. but because its a larger injector, the compensation will be more pronouced when compared to total fuel delivery of the system. Short: you'll get more fuel for air temp correctionbecause you've got a bigger injector set that is offered such correction.

Just a thought i've had.

Don't be disappointed man. Those are some good numbers. WE ALL like to think that we are making higher numbers than we really are. Look at the positive...you know what could, and what CAN be improved for your next dyno session. From there, you should be able to make even more hp.

Good luck!

You could use the Cam gears to degree the cams with a degree wheel (if you plan to pull the engine out this winter).....take some of the guessing and playing around out of them. Unfortunatly that has to be done with the engine out of the car due to our crappy clearance and you need a degree wheel.

Have you tried throwing ice on your intake to keep the Alum from heating up? Kind of an old trick, might be worth a try.

That really sucks the shop didnt have a proper blower for the IC.

Good numbers though, def respectable. What wideband are you using and did you find out why the Log program took a puke on you?


Terry


96 Eagle Talon ESI....Daily driver

97 Eclipse.........

Great numbers for the S16G!! Look forward to see what all of your mods are...

Yeah that's good stuff. I made 265 fwhp w/ the s16g @ 15 psi last winter.

tim are you sick or somehting?

you just made 290 whp on 16 psi's with a measly 16g. which would equate to well over 310 crank hp.

cheer the fuck up dood, imaginied if you wouldve cranked it to 20-22.


etx, what u run at the track?

DWAYNE H
1996 eclipse
under construction widebody eclipse, targa top, 19inch rollers, big brakes, 10 point custom cage, frank 2.4 hrc s20g turbo, custom marble paint job

2000 Yamaha R-1, 165rwhp 117 ftlbs tq

ALMOST THERE...... MUWHAHAHAHAHAHA

Originally posted by etx(SIUECLIPSE)
Yeah right. He is making 380fwhp with ebay hoses and the HRC 2.25" clamp on downpipe attached to his stock exhaust. And a SFMU, LOL! You should be maimed and beaten you fucking liar.

wow! thanx for all the moral support guys! i appreciate it. i think im gonna lay off the HP attainment goal till next summer...gimme some time to rethink my fuel options.

BTW, anyone know why adjusting the intake cam gear would cause the profec b spec 2 to be outa whack for a few runs like i described above? im thinkin of dumpin it and goin for some other kind, it works great, when it works great, other wise its a PITA to get it set correct in order for it to work great.

Good job man... don't be disapointed.

And yes like Dino says, thats tick in cold weather is due to you leaning out I bet.
Remember, a 20f drop in intake temps is a 4% air density increase... that means you need 4% more fuel!

You know what could be done...
A circuit that uses an air temp sensor to raise the voltage going to the fuel pump as temp drops... ;) That might just work :)

Originally posted by MrSlick
Good job man... don't be disapointed. And yes like Dino says, thats tick in cold weather is due to you leaning out I bet. Remember, a 20f drop in intake temps is a 4% air density increase... that means you need 4% more fuel! You know what could be done... A circuit that uses an air temp sensor to raise the voltage going to the fuel pump as temp drops... ;) That might just work :)

I don't think that would do much. Fuel flow is determined by fuel pressure and injector opening time. Fuel pressure is determined by the fuel pressure regulator. Injector opening time is controlled by whatever is driving it. Supplying more voltage to the fuel pump won't change either of these factors...unless the pump is undersized and running out of capacity. What could be done is use a thermistor and a voltage divider circuit to adjust the internal MAP sensor output in relation to intake temperature.

And a pat on the back for Tim. Most people here would be thrilled with those numbers. Congrats...

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I know... after I wrote it I realised I forgot about the FPR :)
<- Stupid head ;)

Or you could just run a system that could compensate for such things..

Or, what about using an SAFC to alter the MAP vooltage ging to the EIC? That would work... Using a thermister to give it data of course. A GM intake temp sensor wuld be perfect.

Originally posted by MrSlick
I know... after I wrote it I realised I forgot about the FPR :) <- Stupid head ;) Or you could just run a system that could compensate for such things.. Or, what about using an SAFC to alter the MAP vooltage ging to the EIC? That would work... Using a thermister to give it data of course. A GM intake temp sensor wuld be perfect.

I was certain it was a brain fart, so I was correcting for the sake of other readers. I know that you know better. Personally, I don't think its worth hacking the EIC to fool it into reading temperature. If it matters to a person that much, they should probably just use a system that is purposely built to read temps.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

tim you have your lm-1 setup in-car 24/7? or just when you need to tune?

the temps around here change all the time, so it throws off my AFR after i tune it a little so im constantly tuning on the fly to my afr on the lm-1

290whp is not bad bro :) you have the long rod though right?

Originally posted by turbo8u
tim you have your lm-1 setup in-car 24/7? or just when you need to tune? the temps around here change all the time, so it throws off my AFR after i tune it a little so im constantly tuning on the fly to my afr on the lm-1 290whp is not bad bro :) you have the long rod though right?

no, its only installed when i need it. my biggest problem is i have no co-pilot (or driver) to use for tuning purposes. its just me.. so to do a run, record, pull off the road and playback, then access the efi to make relavent changes and do more runs and repeat the whole process gets real old real fast. the more i use this stuff (034efi, lm-1)and get comfortable with it all as seperate tools, the more i wish i had one unit/program that read all pertinent data and that could have corrections made thru it at the same time...not a full stand-alone, just a better piggy back! (a full built and tested MS maybe...?)
yea, im running the howell long rod kit.
i should state that i am very happy with 290whp, im just disappointed with not being able to get better results with the cam gears. (and not breaking 300, of course)

Originally posted by tim97rs

Originally posted by turbo8u tim you have your lm-1 setup in-car 24/7? or just when you need to tune? the temps around here change all the time, so it throws off my AFR after i tune it a little so im constantly tuning on the fly to my afr on the lm-1 290whp is not bad bro :) you have the long rod though right?

no, its only installed when i need it. my biggest problem is i have no co-pilot (or driver) to use for tuning purposes.

yea i know exactly what you mean. when i come up there to visit my mom in kirkland i want a ride in that beast of yours, if you want we can tune the daylights outof her too ;) you need the aux box man!!! or a megasquirt....after seeing what the MS can do in real life, you'd probly need to change your underwear. seriously....log map, rpm, throttle pos and wideband afr with the MS or the aux box and thats pretty much all you need.

i think you can hook up a separate air temp sensor but the stock one and a datalogger works just fine for me

im really at least looking at the aux box for sure and loosely looking at he MS, but im really not keen on the whole programming issue. ive had a hard enough time understanding and using the 034 and its a lot simpler. i just dont have any really good resources to use if i f-up with a MS...
does the MS use intake temps to calculate fuel delivery? all i really need in a fuel unit is that feature on top of what the 034 does. i dont need anything else. im happy with letting the stock ECU handle everything up to the boost point.

the MS uses a intake air temp sensor yes. with the new thang lee is working on, its a 12x12 fuel table with a target afr, the MS adjusts fuel to your set afr.

think about that....

OOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! schwing!!!!!!!!!!

<<<is geting that loaded into his MS this weekend

Scwhing!!!

Originally posted by BlueMoonEclipse
<<<is geting that loaded into his MS this weekend Scwhing!!!

Actually it's got even better since then...

Now the code I have has a 12x12 Target AFR table in it...

You set the AFR that you want to run that the set corsspoints... ;)

Hey Tim, about your boost control issue.. What do you have your Spec II set at for the wastegate opening pressure? When I've adjusted mine, I would notice that the boost gauge needle would bounce in boost if the opening pressure was set too far away from your desired boost. I try to keep it around 2-3 psi before your set boost level. This setting is also called the "set gain" perameter. If that doesn't work, try lowering or raising the "gain" percentage. My high boost is set for 15 psi(around 47 percent on the set knob), my gain is around 10%, and "set gain" (or "start boost") is set to around 125(12.5 psi). Try it out and see what happens. The spec II is a little bitchy to get set right..oh, and good dyno numbers too :thumbsup